Yeah same here, even my 350z I had it flushed at 65,000 miles... but i'm hesitant, the one dealer basically said to me the transmission would fail/need replaced before the fluid would ever need changed.

same thing i've read many times.

supposedly it's good for over 100k miles.

the way i drive.....maybe 50k.

I wouldn't let a dealership do it, it's a pain to do so I would only let someone I truly trust do it. I did it at only 12K miles but the car was 4 1/2 years old, I figured since the car has a lot more power I didn't want to trust old fluids to keep it safe.

Ummm....NO. The AT fails in two very important aspcets:

1. It can't hold power
2. It is missing the 'fun' factor of driving a manual

:tiphat:

Sorry OP...back to your regularly scheduled program

Only when it works!:rofl2:

I've driven a lot of cars, MT and AT and never changed the transmission fluid in any of them, and they all lasted way over 100K. Just saying.

Me too. But some people do have a legitimate reason. Most don't but they read it on the internet that they need to. Same goes for oil changes at 3750 mile intervals. That's ok if you use your Z as a taxi in hot, humid climates. I'll stick with once a year or 7500 miles intervals. Also, never had an issue on any vehicles I've owned.

I am so confused as to how that would trigger a fail safe. I've driven an AT SS Camaro in sequential mode and have done similar to what you described. Didn't have any issues. :confused:

camro AT is just plain terrible. have one in inventory right now and tested it......useless.

moving on: the 7AT in the Z has many sensors that will trip the fail safe if there is ever a threat of it being harmed. this being said it also can trip up on it's own on accident which is what i'm thinking mine was. also it takes a lot to trip it since i've been down the drag strip many times, shifting hard at almost 8k RPM, and not broke it or failsafed at the track.

I replaced the crankshaft position sensor... and last night it happened again... shut off the car, turned it back on, still wouldn't rev past 3500rpm, even in park or neutral.. I plugged in my Bluetooth obd2 scanner, no codes, and no CEL.... turned off yet again, then it was fine.

BUT... noticed my oil temp gauge, sometimes reads the lowest number on the gauge, even after driving for 10 minutes, then sometimes reads normal... and it does the back and forth when you turn on the car so I know its not the gauge, and I read in other threads apparently if the oil temp reads goofy (or high) it can cause this limp mode without a CEL or code... I checked the oil today, and its not low.

150 Lubricating System :: Engine Mechanical :: Genuine Nissan Parts :: 370Z Parts (Z34) 2009-2013 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

so it's the 370Z SENSOR ASSY OIL TEMP 22630D?

any other ideas?

do you have a multimeter handy? or would you be near a radio shack etc to get a cheapie?

there is some resistance checks you can do on the crank and cam sensors.

how is your oil level?

Sounds like a blown relay somewhere... might be worth checking the fuses.

Another thought that comes to mind is the brake switch sensor may be stuck on. That's what keeps you from going WOT while brake is depressed.

AK370Z had the same problem which was cured by replacing the 2 cam sensors and 1 crank sensor.

brake switch(es) fault would result in extremely lethargic behaviour from a standstill and it would take forever to reach redline

I haven't had any issues since my last post in April. I just changed the oil again last week, and it wasn't low. I did talk to another 370z owner, who had the 3500 RPM limit issue and it was actually related to the seat belt tensioner... which, mine sometimes needs pulled on a few times after I get out to get it to retract, and he said his didn't throw a code, but his seatbelt wouldn't retract at all anymore... so I'm wondering if its related? but.. like I said, so far so good.