Cooler design question.
 

Anyone know fluid dynamics or what have you and design etc for these? Any tests?

Here's 2 coolers. Ones your typical fin design and then one has large half circle holes that you can only see from turning the cooler to the left or the right. The typical fin design if you blow on it, air goes right through. If its 1.5" thick, air will flow through touching 1.5's. the large hole one, since they're cut sideways, you feel no air blowing straight on and holding your hand straight behind. But you can feel air holding your hand off to the left and to the right. This one being 1.5" thick and the holes side ways means air is flowing through 2" of metal and not 1.5". the large hole one, at the front of each hole its cut in half. The bottom of the circle will go to the left and the top of the circle will go to the right.

Any thoughts?

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pse5f6e7d5.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps0e542dda.jpg

It's hard to tell from the first pic, but what you want is surface area. The fins act as a heat sink & the air medium cools the sink. I'm sure you remember the old style oil coolers the had a tube that twist inside of the fins which worked ok. Then they came out with the lower picture style which improved heat removal due to greater surface area in contact with the fluid tubes

cooler core number one is going to be more effiecient, cooler core number 2 will have lower pressure drop across the core and is much cheaper.

I never liked the lower picture style... just doesnt look like much surface area. Is that lower one painted steel? If so.. that doesnt sound like a very good thermal conductor.

No they're both aluminium. I already bought the lower one and using a 24 for the diff and 48 for the oil...seems if you're all correct then it will be like I'm running a smaller size than I actually am.

1slow370 is correct. We're talking $44-79 for the lower ones and same size top ones would both be well over $100 each!

I usually go for earls coolers... They are like setrabs at half the price. Plus I like the silver color better :)

The lower one is made by a stamping process while the upper one is a weldment that is made of a 100 or more individual pieces soldered together. There s a large price difference as well as an efficiency difference for this reason. Also the top one is going to be more durable because of the amount of soldered connections and the end of each tube being greatly thicker. The top style is made the same way as a bar and plate intercooler, because it is strong and efficient albiet costly. The lower density of the bottom cooler means it wont cool as well but it will also have less of an efect on the cooling of anything behind it as it will allow more air pressure through to the cooler behind it. But you could always go with the top core and move it to the side and have greater efficiency on both coolers.

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Just installed a tru-cool 48 row oil cooler and removed the oem oil cooler. My hoods also vented, bumpers cut out more, run a bigger oil filter, run oem coolant with about a gallon or so of race formula coolant, a bottle of water wetter and maybe 1/2 gallon of water. (It's just what I had laying around.)

Before on a day like today at 88* and 70% humidity on the highway just cruising I was around 200* on the oem gauge. Hottest I've gotten it up to was about 220-230* with sprinted driving. Clearly the oem cooler, coolants, and vent were doing their jobs cause that's not bad!

Now with the cooler which holds 846mL and easily another 100mL + in the lines (1quart), I'm at about 7 quarts total. Just highway driving the gauge was stuck on 180*! Out in the country with sprints from stops signs etc I got it up to 185*. I say for a kit I built and only spending $80 on the cooler this things a steal!! I do not see the point going with a built kit or a Setrad cooler costing $250-$350 for the cooler alone.