brand new car -- service engine soon light
 

hey guys hows it goin,

I just got my new car and have driven it for about two weeks now. I have a total of 915 miles on it. My car sat for about 4 days after I jsut filled up my gas tank. For some reason, today the service engine soon light came on.

When I checked the manual, it says emissions may be wrong or the gas cap/ low fuel could be the problem. The light is definately just staying on, its not blinking and it goes away after the car stops.

I tried tightening my gas cap, I even followed the manual and took my car on a couple drives.

Is this normal? I am wondering if I should take it in tomorrow, or If I should wait it out and give it a couple days.

Rob

Evap leak

Right -- I am assuming the gas cap.

tightened the gas cap. Is the light gonna go off or do I need to get it reset at a dealer.

Try resetting it by disconnecting the battery for about a minute. If it comes back on, you might have another prob.

got it, thanks for the help!

I wish the gas caps were not so touchy...

Did this work for you? Got the service engine soon light today myself. Just tightened cap and about to drive around.

Edited to add: Well, apparently it was just a loose gas cap. Light is now off.

This car is going to kill me. I try and keep the interior and exterior looking perfect. Religiously checking fluid levels, etc.

Maybe I should have kept my Pathfinder! That sucker was a tank. NO maintenance at all except regular oil changes (at Wal-Mart, Quick Lube, wherever) and a new set of tires. Not a single problem since it was built late 2000. As for keeping it clean and perfect, I bought used (from a friend which is how I know the vehicle's history), and it already had a number of paint chips and parking lot door dings. It was very low maintenace.
















J/K, while the above is true about my Pathy, I wouldn't trade back for the Z. I love my 370, and that's part of the reason I'm spending so much time doting over it.

How long do you have to have the gas cap off to set off the service light? I refill all the time with the engine running and no CEL yet...

Unfortunatley, yes, it is normal on the 2009. Hopefully they'll fix it next year and give us 2009 owners a fix as well. It's happened to me twice.... but the sencond time I drove with the CEL on for 1,000 or so miles, so maybe it would ahve happened even more had I got it fixed right away.

Is the ecu reset procedures the same as it is on my 350z I got a light on my 370z as well assuming it's from the gas cap but just wanted to see if it's the same crazy procedure

I read somewhere that the ECU reset procedure is:

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.


Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

A loose gas cap on any newer car will set off the CEL. I dont think there will be a fix in 2010.

I took my car in for this exact problem and they cleared the code and told me that they were ordering me a new gas cap. That was two weeks ago and I have not heard back from them and the CEL has not reappeared yet even though I've filled up twice since then.

I think I'm going to go with the STANT filler cap that has shown it's face in the forums lately though. Seems like it would fix the problem AND make filling up easier.

Add me to the list, if anyone's keeping score
 

The Service Engine Soon Light illuminated on my 370Z on Thursday, at around 1700 miles. I figured it was a loose gas cap. I did go and check, but it seemed that the cap did turn a little before it clicked.

I called the dealer on Friday morning, they were rather non-chalant about the whole thing, and said to drive the car over the weekend and if the light doesn't go out by Monday, to schedule a service. They say the sensor is stubborn and takes a few cycles (car cools down and is heated up) to reset itself if it is a loose gas cap. I have to fill up tomorrow morning, and I am going to call the dealer if it doesn't go out by my arrival at work tomorrow morning.

I'm a little concerned that this would happen to a brand new car, but not overly concerned because the car does not drive any different than normal and the dealer did not suggest that I need to bring the car in right away.

I'll report back.

The solution for this is not to push (hard) the gas cap while turning it clockwise. When you guys have your tank filled up, just tighten the gas cap by not pushing it hard while turning. Trust me guys this is the simple solution for this. I had my Altima 2 years ago and it keeps throwing SES light after filled up and when I did the above procedure it didn't throw any SES light since now I got my Z. :tup:

So my SES light was from the loose gas cap code. The dealer cleared the code and all is now well.

This is the exact same procedures as the 350z I'll see if it works

did you ask AK if he would put this post as a sticky?

No it won't......go to my latest post:

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...tml#post205317

It's kinda silly to imply that people don't know how to correctly put the gas cap on.

If you own a new Z, you're like 99.99% likely to have owned another car. Have you had repeated emissions codes in your other cars?

I've never seen or heard of an evaporative leak code on any car until I got my 370.

It's happened 3 times to me so far. Dealer has no answer what to do. It's not like I'm not turning the cap until it clicks because I'm entertained by taking my car to the dealer every month.

Either a part is defective or the sensor readings are set at too low of a threshold.

Regardless of what it is, this is going to result in hundreds of thousand of dollars in damages. As people's car come off of warranty they are not going to be willing to spend $70 a shot to have the shop diagnose the problem, then will drive their car around with the CEL on when something is really wrong, thinking it is an evaporative emissions code, then seriously damage their engine.

There is nothing silly about it and it has more to do thhan just whether a person knows how to put on a gas cap correctly. The cap may still be on correctly but not sealing as it should which could mean the threads are perhaps chiped or worn or stripped or the pressure sensor may have gone bad. In any case the ECU is programmed to detect possible fuel system leaks through the entire course of the fuel track. There are somewhere around 7 or more different EVAP codes based on the several usual areas where a leak may likely originate and based on the size of the leak.

Beside my 370Z I have had EVAP errors on 4 of my past Mustangs since 2003 as well. I believe alot has to do with the weather as well in terms of humidity, barometric pressure and air flow as all of these may contribute to an EVAP condition if the seal at the gas cap is not complete.

I don't disagree with you about the posibility of thresholds being set to low in the ECU however there is the possibility that a true fuel leak can occur and I'd rather have the trigger than not and catch the car on fire should raw fuel somehow make its way onto the manifold or cats.

If you dont want to go to the dealer all the time then pick up a diagnostic code reader that has a code reset capability. After two visits to the dealer and paying $70 to them you could have bought your own reader.

If you really take your car seriously and don't want to be misled by an SES light that may or may not be something serious then you really need to get a code reader/reseter so you can at least make the dtermination yourself before you rush to the dealer. The codes are specific enough to help you identify the root cause of a symptom.

BTW - Here is a list of Nissan "Service Engine Soon" codes that I am aware of:

NISSAN Specific Codes

P1105 MAP/BARO Pressure Switch Solenoid Valve
P1110 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid
P1120 Secondary Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Fault
P1125 Tandem Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Fault
P1126 Thermostat Function
P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve
P1135 Intake Valve Timing Control Circuit (Bank 2)
P1140 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P1145 Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor (Bank 2)
P1148 Closed Loop Control (Bank 1)
P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Switch
P1168 Closed Loop Control (Bank 2)
P1210 Traction Control System Signal Fault
P1211 ABS/TCS Control Unit
P1212 ABS/TCS Communication Line
P1217 Engine Over Temperature (Overheat)
P1220 Fuel Pump Control Signal Fault
P1320 Ignition Signal
P1335 Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
P1336 Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS)
P1400 EGRC Solenoid Valve
P1401 EGR Temperature Sensor
P1402 EGR System
P1440 EVAP Control System Small Leak
P1441 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
P1443 EVAP Canister Control Vacuum Switch Circuit Fault
P1444 Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve
P1445 EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Valve
P1446 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve (Closed)
P1447 EVAP Control System Purge Flow Monitoring
P1448 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve (Open)
P1464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit (Ground Signal)
P1490 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve (Circuit)
P1491 Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve
P1492 EVAP Canister Purge Control/Solenoid Valve (Circuit)
P1493 EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve/Solenoid Valve
P1550 TCC Solenoid Valve
P1605 A/T Diagnostic Communication Line
P1701 Fuel Trim
P1705 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit A/T
P1706 Park/Neutral Position (PNP) Switch
P1760 Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve (Circuit)

when i still had mine on i always made it a point to twist it clockwise (never pushing in on it) a full turn until the lettering was parallel and readable from left to right...and never had a CEL...