Thanks for all the love guys. :tup:

Like Rusty said - that is just for the fluid reservoir (non-pressure side). I stupidly forgot, in my 15+ trips to NAPA and Home Depot to buy two of those clamps, so I just had to rummage around my garage to find one. You can see that a zip tie holds the other end of the 1/4 inch line. Either way, zip ties would have been fine for a long while anyway. I plan on going back with another worm clamp - no need for more expensive T-bolt style clamps.

Speaking on the terms of the fluid reservoir - The reason I couldn't shorten the tubing at all is that the 1/2 in to 1/4 in fitting I made was so long. Turns out that not many, if any applications in the world at all require a barb fitting from 1/2 to 1/4 inches. I am looking into purchasing a new fluid reservoir that already starts at 1/4 inch so I don't need any unions or such. It's something to note - simplicity is better. The less unions/fittings you have, the less places of failure and leakage! Even though this is the non-pressure side, less is always better.

BGTV8, I do believe this would be dead easy on a RHD car, if the ABS module stays on the left side. ^^



While I have some time at home, I wanted to shout out a thought. I brought up something in my original research thread that some people seemed interested about, and it's something I'm heavily considering: I'm debating putting together complete kits for this master cylinder setup for sale. As this is my prototype, there are many improvements that can be made to make the setup more professional and easier to install. Also, if this progresses further enough, I will definitely contact AK and figure out something.

I was thinking that these kits would include EVERYTHING, including the master cylinder itself. This means it would come with a professionally-manufactured adapter bracket (most likely precision water jetted), all stainless-steel hardware (clevis, bolts, nuts, etc.), pre-bent-and-flared brake line, a new replacement fluid reservoir and tubing, and all brake fittings. You would receive the main unit pre-assembled, like you see in the original post. My plan is to also take my car apart again - and test every single kit I would produce, so I could guarantee that the kit I sent out is working perfectly. Of course, this will take some time and planning!

I could also include an instruction manual, full of pictures and descriptions on what to do and how to do it. As for tools, all you need are basic hand tools, and preferably a friend. Or, a local shop could do it as well without too much trouble. :icon17: Like I said before, if I were to re-do this prototype and make a finalized version, I would know how to avoid lots of headaches and missteps I took in making this work. I also want to keep testing my current prototype and make sure it works for many miles to come, under any driving conditions.

Anyhoo, let me know guys! It's something I'm really considering offering to the370z crowd! I know that this install has really evolved beyond a simple DIY, so I figure I can help put something together and we can all be happy. I'll also try to find time later by the end of this week to sit down and post some pictures detailing little niggles and stuff about the install and whatnot. Also, if there are any questions or anything I missed, please let me know!

Do it! :tup: Sign me up. :D

Sign me up for sure! Unless it craps out in the upcoming weeks on you ;) JK! :tup:

Well my CMC is out again. Only one track day this time. I found this one from AP racing.

http://www.apracing.com/product_deta...4623_type.aspx

sign me up!

something to double check when making a kit would be the flares on your short piece of hard line. i looked at the picture full sized and it appears to be single flared?

SZ Clutch & Flywheel Kits for Z33 (07-08), Z34 & V36

Aren't many people running tilton already?

But f yeah, much more stout piece and def worth it. Lots of neat DIY going around lately, props to OP.

Well I guess the diff would be universal fitment vs a proprietary fitment like the SZP has? If thats the case, neato!

Yep, that is correct, it is a single flare. All the connections and couplers have/are done via straight single flares, and I went over it with a mechanic and he verified that as well. He also mentioned that if I did a bubble flare, it would have the same effect as a single flare, but I could do those as well if people would rather have it that way. :tup:

That would be for the Tilton clutch SLAVE cylinder (the one inside the transmission), my friend. :) Joe@ZSpeed was the only person I know of that was doing design into an aftermarket master cylinder, but I don't think there have been new updates on that.

Also, it is highly recommended that people change the slave cylinder to aftermarket. Those usually break first. :ugh2:

So how much drive time have you put on this setup so far?

Also I know of two shops that have been working on deleting the SC and going to a FORK style setup.

I've been driving the car for at least 300 or so miles (gonna be updating the original post tonight), and the CMC has ZERO issues. No leaks, and no funny noises or feelings. It's as solid as it was when just installed. :tup: I have also been driving the car hard as well - launching the car and slamming gears to really work it. I have total confidence in the setup now. It's a great feeling man.

Fork style setup, eh? Interesting. Do you think it would give a reliability benefit over an aftermarket CSC? Sure would be easier to service and replace, for sure.

The fork setup is great. The price is what scares me. Even then it's not going to be that awful. But definitely a long term piece that will out last any other SC.

IM Interested in your fix. But I know I could do the same as you.

Single flare double flare and bubble flare are all different. The double flare a more durrable end less likely to crack or split on install like single flares do. Neither single or double can be used in the place of a bouble flare. If the line had a bubble flare then it needs a bubble flare, if not then single or double works, but per my hydraulics and automation class double flares should be used in hydraulics application because the flare is less likely to split and has a more reliable seal. Single flare is usually reserved for low pressure aplications like the gas line for your stove, and when the material is to brittle to form a double flare.

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Ahhhh, derp, Master, like title says. Quite an ambitious project. Keep on trucking mate. Hoping that I never need to touch my master :ughdance: Would be a sexy match for the tilton CSC for sure. Yeah, finals....I hear ya, just completed my bachelors, I get rewarded with...more school! Get yours bro!

Oh you definitely could Spohn. I would highly recommend you doing it - my clutch has never felt better. :driving:

I've updated the original post by the way, fellow forum members. I'll be doing a step-by-step post soon, and I'll update my driving experiences both in the second post in a bit! But if you are impatient, just know - the CMC feels amazing. :tiphat:

Any new updates? How is it holding up?!