I agree how would you know. These cars shouldn't burn the oil the way they do.
But others don't burn any. One shouldn't have to worry about checking your oil after every fill up,not on a 40,000 car. But my point was its neglect not to..
Anyone who reads this forum knows about the oil issue....

vp of common sense would tell you to check your oil and air pressure every 2 to 3 fill up. its just smart to do so, are we really that lazy?

I agree totally i'm showing my age,but anyone who drove in the 70'sand 80's
knew they better check the oil,water and air.:driving:

Is it just me or is anyone else shocked that it's not common knowledge that you are suppose to periodically check your fluid levels? You check how much gas is in the tank - why is the oil any less important to monitor? It's a good habit to check the oil level when you fill up.

Because the car isn't supposed to consume oil between changes. At least not in the last 30 years.

Sure, but what if your car develops an unexpected oil leak at a seal, RTV joint, cover, drain plug, etc.? Wouldn't you want to catch that and have it repaired under warranty before reaching the point of having to replace the entire engine?

That's the same as saying that you shouldn't check the volt meter because the voltage isn't suppose to change. In real life we can tell if the charging system is working by periodically checking the voltage. Oil is the life blood of your engine and it needs to be monitored. It shouldn't change but you can prevent catastrophy by monitoring it. That's the whole idea.

If the car isn't suppose to be monitored you wouldn't have a friggin dip stick on the side of the block. It's simple maintainance and taking simple care of your car. My 240Z is almost 40 years old and it doesn't burn a drop of oil either but that doesn't mean you don't check the oil levels periodically.

AND we already know that the cars consume oil (as do MANY other modern engines) so it really is foolish knowing that they may/may not consume oil to not check them.

Checking oil level
 

Here is my rational why you should not check your oil while it is new. I did and found out at 485 miles I was down 3/4 qt, and again at 1048. Previously I had suspected, now I knew by 1500 miles I had an oil consumption problem. Had I let the engine burn up I would have a brand new built in Japan long block.
Even though dealership requested a long block due to oil starved heads that had been subjected to thermal oil viscosity break down i.e. above 260*F, I instead got a short block with my old heads placed back on top. It only took eleven days and 46.8 hours to do, since the tech had never done such a thing with a 370 before.

Let the car grind to a halt and get a proper replacement engine built by somebody who builds these things all day long for a living. I wished now I had.

Tam

I understand your anger/frustration. I had the issue; based on my recollection, it was Nissan who said to replace the short block.

I have a good dealer. They were the ones who fought for an immediate whole engine replacement. The Manager's arguement to the Nissan rep: "If you personally bought a brand new $30,000+ car, would you settle for a short block?"

I've got a good dealer too. I was the first logged case in SoCal, so they basically did the short block experiment on my Z. Following the manual break-in (<4000 rpm) for 1500 mi and then jumped on it forced the short block failure in a few days. That then triggered a full engine replacement which I understand is now the prescribed treatment since field techs have zero experience on the 37 engine. For my trouble and their learning curve, Nissan reimbursed me for every day of shop time, about 2 months of car payments.

I think it's unnecessary to get into p!ssing matches over check your oil/fluids. For many people, they buy a new car and they service their car with their dealer as per the manual. If you're constantly topping off and you don't keep good notes, when you bring it in for service you may not know there's a problem with your seals unless you are looking for it.

So your new short block failed? I'm guessing it was a bearing/rod big end failure. From some stupid tech getting grit or dirt in the block, or failing to COMPLETELY clean the cylinder heads before bolting them on a new engine. Your average mechanic is just an imbecile that shouldn't even consider touching the insides of an engine, that's just the cold hard truth. An engine needs to be assembled with surgical cleanliness, be it a pre-assembled short block, or from scratch. They probably built it right their in the garage bays without even putting up plastic sheets around the build area and on the ground. :facepalm:

I'm glad you're getting a whole engine now; I really hope they don't manage to screw that up as well. :)

I thought I read somewhere that the 2010 engines aren't burning oil. Does anyone know the engine serial number range for the 2010?

My replacement engine is so far so good with acceptable, little consumption. I just want to check if the new one is a 2010.

These engines are mostly computer built, wonder if there was a batch of bad parts

the bulletin states!!!
APPLIED VEHICLES: 2009-2010 370Z (Z34)

APPLIED ENGINE: VQ37HR ONLY

APPLIED VIN/DATE
vehicles built before: JN1AZ4FH(*)AM303670 / 05-APR-2010
JN1AZ4EH(*)AM503778 / 05-APR-2010

YOUR WELCOME!

The interesting question would be what changed on 04/05/10 :rolleyes: