manual Swap
 

Hi guys, well as the tittle says I'm going to swap out my 7AT tranny but I've searched several forums and I've seen that ppl add fly wheels and was wondering if a "6 puck disk" is also recommended? *NOTE: I'm awaiting for the 18G mhi kit aswell*

Anyways, I'm going to purchase the Mt tranny from Z1 motorsports and buy that package deal they have for their Clutch & Flywheel combo only thing is i cant decide on the purchase option for "full face" or "6 puck disc". Im not too familiar with Mt tranny since ive had my 7AT for 3 yrs :) but i want performance and i want to achieve the best that i can via 500-550whp.

Thanks and suggestions are more than welcome! :D

Wow... You want to sell your car and buy a MT.

The cost of the swap is moronic. ECU, instrument cluster, extra things you gotta change, not sure if you thought about those too

Isn't the auto tranny good up to 500whp or so? ISn't the auto tranny also faster? So what are you doing, really?

Unless you want to drift or something and actually want all the control a manual transmission provides AT will actually be faster around the track.

No one has REALLY tested it, or with upgraded valve bodies and with a tune to add pressure and with an oil cooler and such...
I wouldn't bet 500-500, but 450, maybe, but maybe with an upgraded flex plate and the other mods I mentioned, 500?

Back to the drawing board, luckily I hadn't bought it yet good thing I asked. Need to do more research, my purposes were for Tracking no drifting. Thanks

Ask Megan370Z

He's the only person attempting a manual swap

What???

Now that you mentioned this so internally upgrading my AT tranny meaning a flex plate, VB, and posibbly a torque converter can help my car reach 500? *of course with tune and coolers added of course* I ask because I wanted to havethe parts ready by when my mhi kit gets shipped to install everything together?

Yeah, I'd for sure see the VB, MAYBE the flex plate and torque converter. I'd almost rather wait for those to fail.

Stock v Stock, sub-par driver, the Auto is .1 seconds faster on the strip, so change the driver, change the result.


It's not the power that kills the AT, its the Torque. Supposedly the 7AT can safely handle up to 400ft-lbs. After that its :ugh2: area.

Oh ok thanks DEpointfive0, ill shoot him a Pm and ask him sone questions then. I just thought Mt would be much easier and flexible then some obstacles with AT tranny, or so I think.

:iagree: This.

Moreso for the headache than the "ease".


We're not even discussing the differences in the Auto vs Manual rear diff. Different gearing, so you'd wanna think about that as well.

You have a point but I've had my car for about 3 years and trust me I've had my fair share of spirited driving wouldn't ir be advisable to change those part when going FI in the near future? Well for safety precausions though?

The block can't take much more than 400-450 ft/lbs torque anyways without risking it blowing up anyways.

:iagree: Exactly. A lot of work needs to be done to beef up certain areas for bigger power.

I still haven't a clue what you're talking about.
You're making it seem like Nissan has claimed that the transmission can take that power.
And I GUARANTEE they haven't and WON'T EVER say something like that

I just figured it would be more consistent throughout since there's less room for human error in any given circumstance. for example you're not likely to miss shift in the automatic.

Ofcourse driver skill is always a factor. In then end it's up to the owner to decide what the best direction for the car is. I was just making a broad generalization based on other threads on the forums (the infamous at vs. mt nonsense)

GL with your decision OP, definitely do some exhaustive research before making a leap like this.

Nissan has never said the 7 speed auto is good up to X horsepower.
Some light reading: http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...370z-info.html

Even with all of those parts replaced, the clutch packs in gears 5-7 are still too small to take a lot of power. Replacing those, adding a trans cooler and upping the line pressure would help, but torque will eventually kill it. The only solution so far is to call GTM and give them all of your money for one of their built autos.

It's still probably cheaper than swapping to a manual. The one guy that did it had to swap a lot of stuff out just to get it to run.

Wouldn't it just be cheaper to sell your car and buy a used 6MT Z? You might even be able to break even if you did it all private party. Much better then spending $1000s and the headaches involved in a swap.

I just got back from work , I will post something up soon ;)

Keep the 7AT. Hit up GTM about upgrades. Oil cooler, transmission cooler and some transmission upgrades should set you straight.

Fixed. But still probably cheaper than trying to swap to a manual.

yeah, I'm trying save him some money lol :p

Yeah, but how often are you going to be using all the power in 5th-7th? 5th takes you to 155 the limiter and I think 4th goes to 120~

But yeah, I agree, torque wil kill it. Better to SC the autos

Another thing to try to keep the 7at alive would be to get a good boost controller and set it up where the boost comes on slowly. That huge torque spike on spool up is going to be what eventually kills it.

What is your big reason to do the swap ?
you mentioned there that you were thinking about tracking the car.

But how much tracking will you do ?
next
what type of tracking ? could be road race / time attack / lapping days / HPDE / autocross.

so if you DO NOT intent to participate in any road race or hardcore time attack meaning pushing the tranny & car to 110% !!! and concerned about the fraction of second you needs over other peoples.
I strongly suggest you to keep the 7AT.

If you only intent to do lapping days / HPDE / autocross.
I strongly suggest you to keep the 7AT.


Why did I swap the 6MT??? It is mostly because I blew one of my VVEL head.
the next plan was to swap the HR head on the VHR block which would need the HR ECU.
I already had an engine/tranny spare hiding in the garage of my cousin from my 350z times.

so doing the swap from nothing will cost you an arm !
then its up to how much you are willing to keep everything OEM looking
For my case I don't really care about all those red light that pop up on the dask cluster. (ABS/VDC/Airbag/Key/engine codes........

On the 350z side, one of the guy kept his Auto ECU and it was working fine.
IMO, I would stick with an ECU which is setup for the 6MT.

the bare minimum is

Clutch Pedal assembly
Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch Master Cylinder Oil Reservoir
Cutch hose up to the Clutch Slave cylinder
*option* HD CSC (lookup Z1 one...)
Flywheel/clutch ( I took the JWT combo ) *They have 2 version of clutch* (organic only & organic/metallic )
Flywheel BOLTS !!!
Clutch/pressure plate BOLTS !!!
6MT
Will it come with the shifter assembly ? if not , you need this too !

once this is installed, you might want to get the gasket/plate/boots assembly that bolt on directly on the frame/floor
Part # 74963 , 75960N , 74940
http://www.courtesyparts.com/images/z34/z34_747-1.gif

then I will let you find the platic interior trim that you might want for OEM looks.

The OEM 7AT cluster (RPM/Speedo) will work just fine with the 6MT. you will not have the same functionnaly as what the true 6MT 370z has..
At that point again its up to you to find that part...

Don't think about the Rev-Matching option .. at this point you are better selling the car as is and get the 6MT !


once everything has been installed. you will need a little wiring job.At this point then its up to you to look into the FSM to find what needs to be done.
I cant really help you on this because Im using the HR ECU.

But you will need to find out how to wire up the Neutral Position Switch and the Back-Up Lamp Switch to your ECU/BCM.
Without those 2 sensor switch on the 6MT , you will not be able to start the car or/and get the back up light to lid!
You will not have the same wire setup as the 6MT on the BCM side because yours is 7AT. IF you can understand a wiring diagram, you will be able to wire them to make it work, as I did.


So you still want to do the 6MT swap on your 7AT 370z ?

If not ,

Thx a lot man for clearing my head before I jumped on the gun which I was this coming week hahaha, but in all seriousness I believe I'm keeping my AT after seeing your post and rather invest my money in a built AT tranny or maybe just for a on a VB and then fix certain bumps down the road, Thanks to all for the info.

Damn, I want to do the manny swap so bad but don't wan't to find another Z because I'll never be able to find another one like mine. I have a 2009 with 38k miles on it and it's BEAUTIFUL. If it was a manual it would be the PERFECT 370!