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-   -   Possible solutions to aftermarket clutch master cylinder (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/74095-possible-solutions-aftermarket-clutch-master-cylinder.html)

SPOHN 09-29-2013 05:02 PM

Better news. Thanks for the update. Report back? I'm sure you will.

Alstann 09-30-2013 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN (Post 2509352)
Better news. Thanks for the update. Report back? I'm sure you will.

Of course. :tiphat: I ordered it last night, and it should be coming by this wednesday or thursday.

Upon lots of inspection, I feel like it would be ideal if I could remove the ABS module first. It's gonna be one hell of a tight squeeze with a dremel flex attachment to try and grind the corner off inside of the engine bay. I'm gonna do some reading into the service manual and see how they say to remove it. I do know once I remove it though, I'll need a dealer to do a bleed, since there's gonna be air in the ABS system.

From what I can tell though, it's just the hard lines, and 4 bolts that hold it down? Cant be that hard.

DIGItonium 09-30-2013 10:04 AM

If it works out, please do create DIY with pictures.

Alstann 09-30-2013 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIGItonium (Post 2510145)
If it works out, please do create DIY with pictures.

Will do! I really have so much motivation to get this done - I'm sick and tired of not being able to trust my car while driving it. :ughdance:

I just took a look at the service manual, and I see that 3 bolts hold the ABS module and it's bracket to the body of the car. They are bolted from underneath the module, so I'll have to lift the front of the car and remove the wheel and the plastic liner. It seems that all the brake lines that lead into the module are so long that they inherently have enough play to move them out of the way enough to lift the module straight out. I think this will be easy. Annnnd...if I'm correct, the brakes SHOULD still work without ABS. Haha.

EDIT: I also did some research in joining pieces of hydraulic line (brake, clutch) together - the proper technique, bar making a new line altogether, is to do a double flare with a nut on each line, and join them with a flare union and threadlocker. And all it requires is a basic flare kit and tube bender. I think I can pick that up at harbor freight for the cheap, if I need to make more line.

takjak2 10-01-2013 04:28 PM

Sub'd

Alstann 10-02-2013 10:12 PM

Stay tuned...

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...psbd7dbf5a.jpg

Play time is over.

Alstann 10-02-2013 11:33 PM

You guys are gonna love this...after handling the ABS module out of my car...my plan for shaving down the bracket...

It's 100% possible. :happydance::happydance::happydance: Looks like a DIY aftermarket master cylinder is a GO for the 370Z. :driving: And to remove the ABS module, that was a lot easier than I thought. To be honest, the hardest part is probably gonna be getting the outlet hard line to play with the stock line.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...psd4bad7e3.jpg

SPOHN 10-03-2013 04:11 AM

Many props. Thanks for the Dedication

1slow370 10-03-2013 01:23 PM

ONLY thing i would have to say on this is you are going to have to play with the available pumping volume on the tilton cmc, concentric throwouts are VERY sensitive to over stroke so whatever you put in there needs to move the same fluid volume as the factory unit or you are going to need a pedal stop to keep from over stroking the slave cylinder and blowing it up.

Alstann 10-03-2013 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370 (Post 2514952)
ONLY thing i would have to say on this is you are going to have to play with the available pumping volume on the tilton cmc, concentric throwouts are VERY sensitive to over stroke so whatever you put in there needs to move the same fluid volume as the factory unit or you are going to need a pedal stop to keep from over stroking the slave cylinder and blowing it up.

Already thought about this. :tup: I'm gonna measure the OEM travel of the standard CMC, and compare it to the Tilton MC. Then, it's a simple balance of displacement. Slightly larger bore means there will be less pedal travel. A1*Loem = A2*Ltilton, where A1/A2 are the circular area of the pistons inside the master cylinders, and just solve for Ltilton. ^^

On another note - I will be completing this install hopefully friday night. I am having trouble sourcing the correct fittings for the reservoir, and also, it should be noted that you will most likely have the cut the stock reservoir tubing and step it down to 3/8 instead of the OEM 1/2. Shouldn't affect anything though.

EDIT: I stopped by my NAPA Auto Parts today, and they carry EVERYTHING you need for this install. When i do the DIY, ill list everything you need.

Alstann 10-04-2013 07:29 PM

Update:

So, I have some good and bad news. Starting with the bad news, I've learned a few things that make this project a bit of a stretch to call it a simple DIY, but I'm persevering.

First and foremost: The Tilton MC doesn't sit right with any of the bolts. This was a major pain which I decided drilling two holes into the firewall was a bad idea. So, unfortunately, but not the end of the world - I created a custom prototype adapter bracket to mate the Tilton MC to the OEM bolt holes:

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps7b2ff98b.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps300b9137.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps409d9741.jpg

It's a rough prototype, but it works! The MC sits nicely inside the car and smoothly against the firewall. I didn't show a few more pictures, but I trimmed it down even more and shaped it properly. The plate is a quarter inch thick, so I've added a total of .25 inches more to the total length, but since I see how much room I have with the ABS module, I can afford to do so.

There is also a second issue: sourcing all the proper line and fittings. Turns out it's a nightmare to mate a metric Japanese car to an American master cylinder. However, I am sourcing these special fittings at various stores and whatnot.

This has led me to a point where I thought about something...would anyone be interested in me putting together "kits" where they include the bracket, master cylinder, all line and fittings, to make this a near bolt-on kit? All you would have to do is trim your own ABS module, and have it bled. It's food for thought. I'll also include pre-bent line to mate to the stock line! Also, this is considering that everything on this project works perfectly for my car, and it's solid and reliable. :tiphat:

Either way, the fittings I ordered for my prototype are going to arrive in a few days, so we'll see how it goes from there! It should pretty much be done from there.

takjak2 10-05-2013 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alstann (Post 2516836)
This has led me to a point where I thought about something...would anyone be interested in me putting together "kits" where they include the bracket, master cylinder, all line and fittings, to make this a near bolt-on kit?


Yes.

FortuneLSX-TT 10-05-2013 09:09 AM

^^ Ditto. Depending on price of course.

Elmo370z 03-19-2015 08:26 AM

so no follow up on if this worked?

DIGItonium 03-19-2015 08:57 AM

IIRC, I think he created a new thread since then to document his successful mod.


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