I don't know I kind of like the DIY kit post That way I can choose what I like and how big or small the lines and heat exchanger are plus the sandwhich plate in the DIY seems to be better.

Does anyone know of a company in Austin that would install the Nissan Motorsports unit for me. I am not a DYI person unfortunately and it appears my dealer has never done one and I would hate to be the first for them if I can help it. Any help would be appreciated

Dustin can you say that it's better for the lines to come out of the top of the cooler plate or the bottom? Both have their advantages so I'm just wondering what's best...

Lines on top

Pros - Cooler is pre-filled, possibly easier to mount
Cons - Harder to completely drain for an oil change?

Lines on Bottom

Pros - Easier to drain for changes
Con - Hard to keep full after installation before engine start

Other then that, your install page was very informative! This will prolly be one of my first few mods. :tup:

Personally I feel that Top Mounted Lines are the best. But this is my personal opinion, and I am sure some will argue differently.

My concern with having the cooler lines on the bottom is as follows:

- Possibility of air being trapped in the cooler

- Issue with fluid draining out of the cooler, ultimately causing a brief moment where the Engine will have no oil flowing from the Oil Filter to the engine itself. (The reason I say this is due to the fact that 100% of the engine's oil will be pumped thru the cooler with either the Nissan Motorsports, Z1, GTM or Stillen Oil Cooler Kits.)

- By locating the lines on the bottom, you run a higher risk of damage to the lines and fittings in the event of you striking debris in the road. There was a post by a member a few months back showing his install with a Setrab Cooler and Bracket. The issue with his setup was that the Cooler Lines were pressing on the Lower Shroud. If he was accidentally struck a shredded tire in the expressway or a small animal at night, it would destroy those lines and draining all the oil in the process.

I do agree that by having the lines on top, you will ineveitably have some oil that will not be changed during a normal service. Depending on the size of the Oil Cooler, this may be up to a Quart.

You must understand though, when you change the oil on ANY vehicle, you will not be able to change 100% of the oil. Oil will be left in passages, galleys, etc. Since the oil feeding the cooler comes directly from the Oil Filter, you should not have any issues with particles passing or settling in it (Given that you are using a quality filter and change your oil regularly).

I hope that this answers you question. Let me know when you get ready to order this thing Chris. I would also recommend an upgraded Tranny Cooler as well since you are getting a Auto car.

Amount of oil remaining in the core and lines:

http://images53.fotki.com/v439/photo...MG_2379-vi.jpg

Wow, I knew it would be quite a bit. I know generally, with a 34 Row Setrad Cooler, when you do the initial install and an oil change. You will be adding ~ 6 qts of oil. After that it is usually ~ 5 qts, which is what the 370Z requires in stock form.

It would be interesting to find a possible drain solution to an oil cooler core. That way you could drop the lower shroud and drain the oil cooler core as well.

LOL...And that's with a 19 row cooler! The solution is fittings on the bottom. All that can be drained by detaching the AN lines at the thermostatic plate...:tup:

From the shop manual:

Drain and refill:
With oil filter change 4.9 (5-1/8, 4-1/4)
Without oil filter change 4.6 (4-7/8, 4)
Dry engine (Overhaul) 5.7 (6, 5)

There is still 0.8 L of oil left in the engine with a filter change? Where is it?

Quick (perhaps stupid) question: the considerably large oil cooler being placed right in front of the radiator, would the radiator cooling performance be affected? Or is the radiator like something that's been over-designed and there's no need to worry?

Coolant temps are not a problem in these cars and the decrease in airflow over the radiator caused by something like an oil cooler will not drastically affect the radiator function. The other thing you should remember is that the hotter the oil, the hotter the coolant. Oil is the hottest fluid running through the system so if you cool that down, you are going to see cooler water temps as well.

I see.. that makes sense. Okay, thanks! I prob will get one right after the winter's over.

Nothing to worry about concerning the radiator. Enough air flows through the oil cooler to where it won't hinder anything. And like christian said, cooler oil temps = cooler coolant temps as well. :)

Stock 300ZX Twin Turbo Oil Cooler
 

Maybe a silly question, but would the stock Z32 TT Oil Cooler work well enough in a Z34?

If you built a custom bracket. It might work. But the stock 300zx oil cooler is designed for ~3/8" (- 6 AN ) line. Plus the stock Calsonic oil cooler small in comparison with a 19 row Setrab. We use a Earl's core for the Z1 Oil Cooler upgrade for the TT 300zx, and have just recently went a step farther to add the more efficient Setrab 19 and 25 row oil coolers.

Most used, Z32 TT oil coolers will have some damage and road debris embedded within them. I really would not recommend installing a used oil cooler core on a brand new engine. Just my .02.

300ZXTT Oil Cooler
 

Thanks for the reply, Dustin.

One of the 1st things I noticed when looking at the Z34 was the oil temp gauge, like my old 280ZXT- if that gauge didn't exist I doubt anyone would care about adding an oil cooler! lol

The Z32TT doesn't have an oil temp gauge, so I can't say if it is sufficient, just thought it would be for an NA like the Z34 since it cools a twin turbo'd car.

Oh well, good to hear your opinion. Thanks again.