That's not normal at all.

The funny thing is if Nissan hadn't installed a stock oil temp gage you guys wouldn't be worrying about this at all most likely!! I have a stock 2010 370 and 220 is normal operating temp. Any aggressive driving combined with hot weather will easily push it into the 240-260 range.

I think most of the sluggishness under 240-260 degrees is more likely IAT related than oil temp related.

The dealership said that on my 2011 they did NOT recomend ester oil anymore. Since that is where I get all of my oil changes on the Z I go with what they say is RECOMENDED for my car. I would gladly pay for ester oil it was needed. You can find out real fast by reading your owners manual if you have one of the years where ester oil is recomended.

I still think its the way Z's run with the AC on....................I hate using the AC in my for that reason alone. It puts a pretty good drag on the car. You turn it off and its like a totally different car. I have a feeling that is what the OP is refering to.

Elvee, Did you find a solution to this problem?. Should I be worried as well?. Factory defect? I have a new 370z and within only 245 miles I saw my Oil temp hit 220degrees. California 70-80 degree weather Traffic.

Nothing has changed in the motor. What does your owner's manual say???

The AC is a huge drag, but I seem to remember that the compressor clutch lets go at WOT on these cars. It would contribute to part-throttle lagginess though. And since you're more likely to use AC when it's hotter out, that could very well be the issue. On other cars I've seen dynoed up to a 15whp difference between AC off and AC on.

You shouldn't be worried. 220 is normal operating temp for a lot of us. And you're in traffic, so there's very little airflow. It's not a defect. That said, an oil cooler would be a wise purchase long term. Wait a little while to make sure you don't have any issues with the car before you change anything though.

Not to discount a potential issue, but could it be possible be that you're getting used to the car now and thus it feels slower -- Unless the change is that significant.

Ok guys i dont know if anybody has yet to explain this i didnt get the chance to read all the posts yet, am at work but i do own osirus tuner and ill tell you what i found. Apparently the ecu has two maps one is for cold temp and one is for high temp they change at around 180F . The cold temp map is the best you feel all the power from 1k-7.5k rpm where the high temp map there is a power drop point between 2k-3k rpm this is where the sluggish feeling comes in also if the temp go above 240F ur rpms are being limited to ~5k rpm at 260F its ~3.5k but i never hit those temp i have a 48row oil:tiphat: cooler. So there u go fellas.

Hmmm - there is definitely a huge power drop in the low RPM (2k-3k) range. I noticed it again Wednesday (high temps here in the upper 90's) and the oil temp gauge read 230-235. It would go in-out intermittently.

What I experienced was definitely not the ~5K limit. Yanno, I really don't remember this happening when the car was newer.

It had to, u probbly never pushed the car hard or it was new u never noticed it untill u got used to it. My friend bought his 13 370z and it does same thing. To lose this drop u have few options

1) get a tune def worth $50
2) buy a throttle control module $200 n up
3) do nothing $0

Ur choice pal.:tup:

yea pretty sure its normal.. i have a 13 nismo z and im still in the break in period so no aggressive driving yet.. i see temps between 190-225.. usually in 220 when im driving local and 225 in bad traffic and 190ish in the highway with no traffic.. temp around chicago is around 70s- 80s.. i do feel the lag when around the 220s oil temp between the rpm of 2k-4k.. but i think its from iat and heatsoak under the motor..

Ouch, gonna hurt that motor. Although after however you drove it the first 20 miles its pretty much set in its way.

Get one of our radiator +condenser modules.
AC will work better, and your engine temps will be lower, and more stable.
:tup:

Plenty of members on the forums can give feedback on the performance of the product.

Let us know if you have any questions.

I picked up my 2013 6mt-spt a few weeks ago with 1.6k mi on it. The dealer probably changed the oil just before pickup because there was a new service sticker in it. The first few drives I distinctly remember hitting 220 on oil temps.

At 1.8k I went ahead and made the change to Mobile 1 full syn which
will be the normal oil. After that I am about 90% sure the oil temps run cooler. It has never hit 220 and has been well below that as far as I have seen. Maybe I am missing something but that's what it seems like right now.

I can't speak to the performance issues in the thread, but in my case it sure seemed like full synthetic helps temps.

if you havent read about it already, the 370z has temp problems, just get a simple 19row oil cooler and call it a day, if you plan on adding FI to your car, then upgrade to a 34row cooler

very true!!!

I got a 2010 , at first getting high temps was as easy as one hard push and she would shoot up to 220+, normal driving temp hovered between 180 and 220, stop and go traffic was brutal 240+, now 25 row oil cooler with thermostatic switchplate ,highway won't get past 180 , normal driving is around 180 - 200 but drops back down quick to 180 if im not pushing, stop and go can still get to around 220 but not as fast or as bad as it used to be. Best mod ever for engine life and piece of mind.

13 nismo here, 220 in traffic easy. Doesnt feel sluggish, but it depends on the day. If its humid the car runs like ****, this engine seems very finicky with environmental conditions being perfect.

After a lot of observation and experimentation, i have concluded that there are 3 temperatures which affect engine response. In order of severity/likelihood/nuisance (2 and 3 should be on par in terms of severity):
1 - Intake Air Temp
2 - Engine Oil Temp
3 - Engine Coolant Temp

Most of the lag people experience is due to high intake air temps, resulting jn the ECU pulling timing to prevent detonation. This includes lag due to heatsoaked IAT sensor and intake components leading to inaccurate data fed to ECU, pulling timing and causing the engine to run slightly leaner (cooler air is denser). High IAT i think is the cause of the bogging/dead/car is thinking feeling when taking off and it feels like the engine is unwilling to budge. I'm sure you know what i mean. I've gone to great lengths to eliminate IAT related lag so i'm confident this is not the cause of the remaining lag i experience.

Based on the dash oil temp gauge, i feel a lag in throttle response at 96*c/205*F and above. This can be observed in mild ambient temps (less than 24*c/75*F) so it's not high IAT causing the lag. I can notice the lag by doing the gas pedal jab test. Revs rise slightly slower and fall slightly slower than with a cool engine (oil temp at 90*c or less). I can really notice the lag while taking off. It feels like the aircon is on (i rarely use aircon as i prefer fresh air). Sort of like pushing the pedal further and not getting much more acceleration.

High engine coolant temp (let's just define it as 95*c and up) is usually experienced by people in stop start/heavy traffic driving conditions. Lack of fresh airflow, high ambient temp, lack of engine bay ventilation all contributes. So does the default cooling fan temperature threshoulds. The end result is hot, trapped air inside a cramped engine bay. Radiant heat is your enemy here. Intake components get heated up and timing gets pulled as a result. Coolant temp also plays a role in detonation management.

Oil and coolant temps are usually within a few degrees of each other when i feel the lag.

Now here's where it gets interesting. On page EC-116 of the FSM, nowhere in the VVEL control flowchart does it mention oil temperature. A misprint? I doubt it. Most people associate the high oil temps with the VVEL system.

I'm no expert but i think it's the intake valve timing control system that's the cause of the oil temperature related lag. As oil gets hotter, it gets thinner. The CVTC system on our engines uses hydraulics to advance or retard the intake valve timing. The hydraulic fluid is the engine oil, directed thru the ECU controlled passages by way of oil control solenoid valves. Thin oil results in lower hydraulic pressure. Now, the system does have a self checking feature which relies on the cam angle sensor. There is a threshould until a DTC is flagged though, so all our experiences might just be within that tolerance.

On some makes, there is a screen filter on the solenoid but i'm not sure if ours have any filter.

Page EC-107 of the FSM lists the oil temperature as a parameter in the CVTC control system. Sluggish response on VVT engines is commonly associated with the oil control valves or lack of hydraulic pressure whether it's due to low oil level, blockage or whatever.

Another factor in this lag equation is the ECU software, which is known to be conservative and overprotective.