I have the same issue on mine. When i hit 220 I enter limp mode and it bogs down. Known issue. I guess a oil cooler and tune with fan control mod will help.

Just did this today with a kit from Z1 Motorsports. Added a Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate on top of the factory plate. Didn't leave much room for the filter, but was easily able to get the smaller stock filter on. Might have been able to squeeze the larger Puralator L14610 filter in there, but it would have nearly touched the frame rail.

To the OP's original question, I regularly see 220+ in city driving, and have never felt the car was "sluggish" in the least. As many have said, 220 isn't high at all for oil. Now I hope I will see some reduction with the 25 row I just installed today. We're already pushing 100+ in the Phoenix, so I won't be seeing temps in the 80's until October!! We'll see......

Yes !! even after putting a 25 row cooler on if i drive thru town my oil temp used to be 220 now around 200 by the oil temp gauge and anything over 190 and it does feel sluggish . since i wasnt ready to get an uprev tune i followed what kennys370z did and hooked up a switch so i can turn the damn cooling fans on whenever the hell i want and they run on high not half speed and now have almost virtually no lag in acceleration . finally i can drive in town without coming home disgusted at how slow it is when its hot felt like my car was having an epileptic fit before when i press the gas was so frigging annoying . if you have been tuned already call them up and have them do the fan control mod .

I use the PL14612 which is shorter than the 10. Allows you to have more grasp around it to grip/turn. Recently swapped one on a 2012 and it was still close to tight. I'm cautious about recommending a thermostatic plate, even though its the way to go... Worried about clearance. :(

on a 2012-13 adding the sandwich plate it gets a bit tight in space with the hoses but you can install np. Sometimes the stock cooler or sandwich plate will rotate a bit when doing oil changes and will need to tighten it up...

I'm guessing no one has tried tackling removing the Stock Oil/Water cooler, and just installing an Oil/Air cooler?

I'm not sure I believe that the car is pulling timing or any kind of limp mode at 220. Does anybody have any logs of something like that occurring? Stock I saw 240 regularly with the only performance loss coming because it was over 100 outside, not because of oil temps.

I always thought the dreaded number was 260*? If you saw 240 to back off...

Me too, until people in this thread claimed to hit limp mode at 220.

I can say for a fact that I ran my oil up to 250* F a few weeks ago at an autox event and the car did NOT go into limp mode. Now it's possible that it was starting to pull some timing but I don't know for sure.

Not full blown limp mode . but there is a noticable difference in power the higher the temp goes .

Knock on wood, but I hardly ever see 220. And I don't baby the vehicle.

220 is, indeed, "bad". It is well-documented on the forum that oil begins to lose viscosity at 220. One of Modshack's old threads.

Over at bob is the oil guy, that number is more like 260+. 220 is nothing to worry about.

Would tapping into the stock lines work to keep room free'd up at the filter? Just Tee off the pre and post factory lines and run to a second core? This was my original idea since hose, two tees and a core cost next to nothing.

Pardon the crude pic


http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps6b66be69.jpg

The lines that you are referring to are coolant lines. The factory cooler is an oil to coolant, oil cooler.