Clutch / Flywheel for agressive driving and TT?
 

While waiting for my twin turbo kit, I have decided to upgrade my drivetrain. I was looking for a good deal on clutch and flywheel combos, and I keep looking at the JWT combo, which is one of the more less expensive options.

Thing is, When I drive agressively, I drive it HARD. I powershift hard through gears, and my stock clutch is beginning to slip as a result. On twin turbos, I wouldn't have the need to powershift as hard, but I'm willing to bet the stock clutch would not hold it.

Anyone have any input on the JWT setup, or should I find something else?

Solution: call Joe@ZSpeed, tell him what you do and what you will be doing with the TT setup, then buy (from him because his prices are great as well) the parts he recommends

/thread

:iagree: Joe @ Z-Speed is the guy to talk to. The best customer service around.

I'll be making a call later today. Thanks guys. ^^

Just got off the phone, and I soon shall be the owner of a stage 3 6-puck Southbend clutch! God so much money. X.x

Congrats!!

Love my Stage 3 organic and SS FW. Very smooth engagement, tight pedal feel and hold some solid TQ! :tup:

I can't wait! Joe told me Friday or Monday delivery, so I'm gonna begin removing the transmission probably tomorrow, and leaving my car on stands.

In total, I got the Stage 3 Southbend 6-puck drag clutch, 19lb steel race Southbend flywheel, and of course, the Z-Speed HD CSC. Joe told me that the clutch is gonna be pretty grabby - I've driven my buddies 300ZXTT with a 6-puck and Alum. flywheel, and it's gonna be harder than that. Ah well, bigger leg muscles, I guess. :tup:

I also got the Stage 3. Just dont do like me and make sure you triple check the orientation of the clutch disk. It will only go one way, but the stock file Joe has shows the old hub design and made me second guess my whole install.

Just make sure your tripple check the orientation, its obvious but still.

The clutch does like to grab, but if you through a little more rpms behind it it slips and engages just like a stocker. It does not like the low rpm engagement (say when parking). The RJM pedal is also a good idea if it starts to get to you. Mine works great.

I need to install mine. It's been sitting on the shelf being ignored for too long. My Spec stage 3 is pretty grabby and annoying.

Not going to lie, its a bit of a biatch to install, mainly because you have to lay on your back upside down to work. I have done it 3 times now (CMC issues). Not a good time. haha. But it does work good.

Yeah, the footwell seems kinda cramped. The instructions didn't make it look like a lot of fun. I need to just man up and do it.

Yeah, I used a bunch of bubble wrap to lay on, worked not to bad.

Joe is the man. And he sells more than just clutch kits. Great pricing all the way around.

Sounds like you already got it squared away. I was going to suggest Competition Clutch's twin disk, but the Z-Speed products are great as well. Good luck and let us know how it works for you.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

What about OS Giken's Twin Disk with Damper? I don't much care for the puck style clutches. Would it hold up to a TT application with aggressive driving every once in a while, even tracking?

Would be good choice. Lot of tt guys here runnin the os giken

I will give a semi detailed review of the combo I went with. I am running the OSGiken Twin with the ZSpeed CSC, and recently added the RJM pedal.

OSGiken: Pedal pressure is great (as in, not too stiff). Holding power is great (im nearly 600 wheel with no slip yet and have tons of miles on the clutch). I am hoping to see it last another couple years before rebuilding it or upgrading it to a triple. Engagement window: an absolute friggin nightmare for DD (which I use the car for), but perfect for racing and power shifting. Basically, once you push the pedal in, the moment you feel any pressure resistance after the slack, thats it.. the clutch is disengaged enough to shift. So for racing you have immediate clutch release which means less grinding and missing gears. The light weight hub and disks greatly aid powershifting. With my stock clutch, it didnt like to powershift and would often grind. Now I have none of that business, I can row through every shift at full throttle and I get no grinding... an occasional scratch if I screw up my timing. Daily driving it takes a ton of getting used to.. it will slip, you just have to really fine tune your foot technique to use the real small window.

ZSpeed CSC: Cant say much... and thats a good thing. It has been doing its job for a couple years now without a hiccup. Bleeding it was a huge hassle... but I am not sure that's really the CSCs fault. The master cylinder moves so little fluid that it just takes a lot of time. The fitting arrangement makes me feel that it seems logical to jack up only the driver side of the car, to make it easier for air to escape the CSC and get on the bleeder side of the T fitting. It took so long to bleed my clutch, I am not sure if this made a difference or not. Not helping was the fact that I had an interesting sludge that took forever to bleed out. I have no idea if this sludge was a reaction between the stock fluid and the Motul RBF600 I changed to at that time, or some type of grease or something that was inside the CSC when it was manufactured (before it would have made it to ZSpeeds hands, so I wouldnt fault them if it were the case). But I do know that 2 years later I still get some sludge floating to the top of clutch fluid. But after my initial struggles with bleeding and sludge, it has been a great reliable and functional product.

RJM Pedal: Impressive kit. Even more impressive when you consider the price... when you pull it all out and look at it, its surprising to get so much for the money. It does exactly what its supposed to do. I havent even played around with the setting much and its already made the clutch much easier to drive on for DD. Installation appears over complicated and made me hesitate for weeks to dive into it, but is actually really quite simple once you "get it". if I could go back in time, I would have installed this pedal right away after getting my clutch system bled and functioning properly. To have installed it before my bleeding woes, would have had me suspect of all kinds of things, so if I were to do the same installation for someone else, I would get the clutch system fully bled before installing the pedal.

Description of OS Giken is spot on.