I like your thinking. :rofl2: Something with a lower temp, and a place for a sensor. :tup:

The wheels must be turning. I smell smoke from Chicago. :eek:

something like the spacer they have for the sr20?

for example
https://au.gktech.com/sr20-coolant-neck-spacer

The thermostat spacer is clever but it’s not standard to measure coolant temps after the rad instead of before it. The stock sensors are on the water outlet housing on the rear of the engine. The thermostat area will give you water temps after the rad already cooled, or water inlet temp.

Seems like the easiest place to put the sensor would be the water housing at the front of the engine on the timing cover. Unless you wanted to be super clean and remove the rear water housing from the heads to weld a bung on.

Pretty soon I have to make a billet front water housing anyway (one that clears our front throttle intake manifold), so I’ll keep this thread in mind when starting that project.

You got me confused. :confused: The thermostat is before the radiator, not after. So if the sensor is on the thermostat housing or the upper hose. It will take the reading before the rad. Not after like you explained.

I agree ............ thermostat spacer would do the job .......

Charles - I'm hot to trot ........ let me know when you have this done ..........

Just for the sake of eliminating any doubt....

Diagram is wrong. That is the first time I ever seen the thermostat AFTER the rad. It's always before.

Additional text from Nissan so that you don’t have to take my word for it. Notice what is referred to as the water inlet, and what is referred to as the water outlet. Also consider where the factory temp sensor is, and where it is not.

Argghhh .... cr4p ................

Looking at the schematic and the 2 other diagrams posted. It's really hard as to how the thermostat triggers open. The schematic shows a recirc back to the thermostat when closed. But when looking at the water outlet and piping. Item 25 is the recirc line?

so could you not then do a spacer for the upper water neck?

Keep in mind I am not sure on the space available in the area, just thinking aloud


While I love a full CNC billet piece as much as the next guy a few hundred on a water neck just isn't in the cards for me. But a ~$50 spacer would be.

29, 28, and the lower half of 25 yup, this is the loop that skips the rad when thermostat is closed. On the DE this loop is the big ugly one that crosses right over the front timing cover. The top half of 25 is the heater core return.

Ok, I got my head wrapped around it. Talk about making a simple system hard. :shakes head: Typical Japanese. Over engineered it. :shakes head: Looks like the best place for an aftermarket temp sensor is with the factory temp sensor. That location has constant flow.

Its actually the layout I am most accustomed to. The few engines I have put great attention into worked in a similar way. For me it would feel odd to go the other way.

Agreed. The stock sensor is in the best spot.

Here is a possible option for you. I have attached a photo sequence I took back in 2010 when I first did the twin turbo setup on my Z. When the trans is out, it is very easy to remove the water outlet housing from the back of the cylinder heads.

I wanted to delete the throttle coolant lines. The cleanest way for me to handle the barb on the water outlet was to pull it out (its a press fit) and then tap and plug the hole. When you pull out the barb, the hole left behind is a perfect diameter for a deep-set 1/8 NPT or BSPT thread. So I ran a tap in and then plugged it.

This bung could also be drilled and tapped oversize for your aftermarket water temp sensors. Of course, it will only handle so large of a thread before you would need to weld on the pipe also. But if you have a compact sensor, this is a great option.

Due to the male/female interface between the water return pipe and the upper water neck there, I believe the spacer would have to be quite thick. I think it would push the water neck out quiet a bit further than anyone liked, and also interfere with the dipstick upper mounting tab.

If and when I pull my tranny for a clutch. I think I might look into this deeper.

I'm so used to working on cars with the thermostats on the upper radiator hoses. Sometimes things like this I overlook. :shakes head:

http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...8122d496ca.png

FYI guys

I sent them an email a few months and never got a response.

Anyways, would like to know how will the koyo 370Z rad perform. From what i hear, they wern't very good for the 350Z

My CSF experience
 

Just figured i'd through in my 2 cents.

My CSF radiator started leaking after 1.5 years (just after warranty) and couldn't get it covered. CSF and Z1Motorsports swore it was an anomaly so I purchased a a new one using my own money. Guess what?... 1.5 years later, the new one started leaking as well! I'm in the process of working with Z1 trying to get this one covered. If I can get a refund, you can be sure I'm not going with CSF again. I don't know if it's the materials or the construction, but it's crap either way.

2 leaking radiators, both 1.5 years after purchase. That's all I have to say.

Russ

On my second CSF as well, i should have just stuck with the oem rad :shakes head:

so when the rad starts leaking, can they be repaired or is the costs not worth it?

I called a few local radiator shop. Some only buy sell, others repair or make special to order needs. When I mentioned that it was a aluminum rad and leaking where the end tank and fins connect, the owners all said, "sorry, can't fix that. I can get you a new one though." He explained to me that the end tank connection and the fines metal are to different in thickness. The fines will melt to a blob before you get penetration on the weld on the tank side. The shops that do repair them use epoxy and that is just a band aid. It will fail and you don't know the time frame. Two of the many shops I called said the exact same thing. So yes, it sucks that the CSF failed. Cost me good time and $ but it was nice when it worked. Just not worth the $700+ in material and labor IMO.

YzGyz

Ahh damm, so should I wait for the Koyo rad?

I will say it again stay with the oem radiator and if you are function over form guy then open up your front bumper and get a vented hood or hood vents. I have had no issues with over heating or high water temperatures since I put vents in my front bumper. I had a Fugimura hood when I first put the vents in and since then I have switched back to my oem with Trackspec hood inserts and the temps are never out of the normal range even at the track.

Lots of unfortunate news in this thread.

I was intending to install a CSF radiator as I progress the Z build; it's currently sitting in the center of my floor and I have zero intention of installing it after reading these long term reports.

Will probably just punch a whole through the center and get whatever I can for the item's weight in scrap.

I can't intentionally re-sell this thing to someone while fully knowing it may cost them an engine.

At this point it seems the best feature was how it looked coming out of the box :rofl2:, what a damn shame. :shakes head:

Time to start shopping for a vented hood.

Well lets hope Koyo can bring out something decent.

Durafix?

I really don't know what product some people use to fix the rad. All I konw is that I'm bitter over the whole thing. $500 for the rad, $100 to get my Freon evacuated and recharged (x2 so $200, first CSF install now the oem), tow fee (lucky my insurance has tow service for $50 or something like that), time stranded (priceless), and time wrenching (probably 2-3 hours the first time and 2 hours the second time).

All I'm going to say is stick to OEM, and pass on the CSF. You should not have that many issues on a product marketed as professional and sold at that price.

YzGyz

Does the misho have manyleaking issues like the csf?

All Mishimoto products are crap

even the mishi oil coolers and trans coolers?

My tuner has a pile of their failed parts in the corner. We joke that friends don’t let friends put Mishimoto parts on their car.

Well Koyo has finally released it but it's competition only, AKA no AC condenser......

Koyorad Racing - News and Updates

Nice. Hopefully they make one with a condenser next.

Wonder if you could use the factory condenser?

well, I have to add myself to the list. I was doing some spirited driving on my way to the beach and..... there goes all my fluid.... I did have it for three to four years. I now need a replacement and really don't know were to turn >.<. Is there any were we can turn? I really don't feel good about using another one of there products after this one leaked, and all the comments on the same thing happening to others.

keep the CFS condenser and have a shop weld mounting points to the Koyo?

That’s my thought. I’m ok with a little loss in efficiency. **** I have an intercooler in front of my radiator and I’ve still not had any issues even in Houston heat.

Crazy to see that CSF radiator are still leaking just terrible.