Well man we got 7pk1990 belts as well as 2000 and 2010 so it's all good. I'll just use a 7pk2000 and bring a 7pk1990 to try first. And I will report back after install. If not 7pk2000 it is!! And as far as the tiny bit of metal powder do you really think it's coming from the crank bearings?

hard to tell without a used oil analysis..

Man you are blessed to have all those options in front of you ;) no excuse to not try haha good luck with it

Is there a way to tell truly if it is from crank bearings or another source? If I happen to install the pulleys and find any type of metal powder how would I test to know its for sure coming from the crank bearings? Just curious.

One more question, I found a bando (Nissan OE brand) 7pk1995 belt. We also have a Dayco 7pk2000 belt. But no 1990. So should I go with 1995 it should be perfect. Not too much smaller than yours. But just right. Do you mind telling me what brand belt you have?

Mine is a Gates belt, made in EU. It's a Gates Horizon belt. Packaging looked dodgy and not like the micro V belts they sell locally here. But it's very good, has a grippy glossy back and a lot of late model BMWs use the same design Gates belts.

7PK1995 should be good man. Take them both home, fit the smaller one and see if the lines align ;) only one way to find out. And you cant tell a belt has been fitted as long as you work with clean hands so no one will find out haha

Okay sweet I will report back and quote you after install in a week or two and let you know if the 1995 belt fits better. So you'll know. :) thanks for your help man

I been hesitant to install this part, I've had it in a box since I received it.

I received mine today. Still have to wait on belt should be here Saturday or next Monday. I'm slightly hesitant. Only reason being because I've seen on here what "can" happen. But for the most part I haven't found anyone on here that's said "I installed NST pulley and it ruined my engine" or "well pulley voided my warranty and now I have a $30,000 paper weight." Nothing. Everything I'm seeing is moderate dyno proven hp/torque and no hesitant when pressing throttle. I did order a magnetic oil drain plug like mentioned above to monitor metal powders / shavings and will test if I ever come across any. And report back. I kinda scared myself too reading on here. But most people commenting "the crank pulley should be balanced it'll ruin engine" obviously don't know the engines in modern days are internally balanced so that shouldnt effect your crank. It's lighter so it's should be easier for the crank to move more freely. I would speculate that as long as it's properly seated that it should be fine. And haven't heard any proven engine ruin stories. But have heard/seen proven dyno sheets, and success stories for this. That's the only reason (( I AM )) moving forward with installing mod. But since I will be installing Ark Gt-S springs this weekend. I will probably not tackle both. I'll probably tackle pulleys the following weekend when I do my oil change. But will report back to let you know how it goes.

I have always had a bit of metal powder on my magnetic plug (since brand new in 2010) so I don't think you can really make a correlation there. You would need an oil analysis to look for elevated lead I believe.

That's what I figured. I checked mine today when I did my oil change and I had very fine powder on my magnetic oil plug... So I will check next time I change oil AFTER installing pulleys and if for some reason there's more or it's more noticeable. I will run an analysis on it.

When i just bought my car it had 160miles on it,(it was driven to me) the first thing i bought is the magnet that goes on ur oil filter, now after i have removed the filter on the next oil change. I rolled the filter on the floor and u can clearly see which side has all the metal stuck to it, also it weighted as if the whole filter was full of oil in it when i let it drain for over 10 min.

I think am gonna put that pulley on as well, se if more shavings get stuck on the magnet.

Am at 32k and last oil change there where barely any shavings at all, so we'll see.

I know, I know....reviving an old thread. I just wanted to say thanks to the OP for this DIY (reps given)! It helped me this past weekend when installing my NST lightweight crank and alternator pulleys.

A few notes:

- I followed these install instructions to a 'T'. I started by removing the plastic splash guard and draining the radiator. Only after doing so and moving to the top of the engine, did I realize that there is more than enough room between the hoses to get leverage to remove the crank pulley bolt. If you want to save a step, you don't have to drain the radiator. You can just drain the overflow bottle, remove it, and you'll have access to the radiator fan bolts. Or, you can do like I did, and remove the overflow bottle bolts, leave the radiator cap in place, and once you remove the hoses to the overflow bottle, just invert the overflow bottle, leave the fluid in there, and remove the bottle.

- I tried using an air ratchet to remove the crank pulley bolt, but that son of a b**** must have been put on there by the world's strongest man. I ended up using a breaker bar with about a 4 foot extension (as OP did).

-There is no need to remove the alternator to remove the alternator pulley and bolt. With the air ratchet, it came off fairly easily.

I just wanted to contribute to hopefully help others out in the future, as I thank everyone who came before me and wrote other DIYs which have helped me tremendously (including this one :tup:).

Thanks for the tips man, I have the crank and alt pulleys to put on and was going to wait since I had a fresh rad flush. If I don't have to then I'll probably do it this long weekend at some point.

having issues my crank pulley keeps spinning with the nut what do i do i have an automatic so do i still need to jam the transmission ujoint with a tire iron?

If it's in Park, you've already locked the output shaft. Trouble is, with the liquid coupling (torque converter), you have to lock the crankshaft. Can you get access to the starter ring? A big flat blade screw driver between two teeth and lodged against the trans case will provide that lock. It means you need a second pair of hands, though.