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hard to tell without a used oil analysis..
Man you are blessed to have all those options in front of you ;) no excuse to not try haha good luck with it |
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Mine is a Gates belt, made in EU. It's a Gates Horizon belt. Packaging looked dodgy and not like the micro V belts they sell locally here. But it's very good, has a grippy glossy back and a lot of late model BMWs use the same design Gates belts.
7PK1995 should be good man. Take them both home, fit the smaller one and see if the lines align ;) only one way to find out. And you cant tell a belt has been fitted as long as you work with clean hands so no one will find out haha |
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I been hesitant to install this part, I've had it in a box since I received it.
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When i just bought my car it had 160miles on it,(it was driven to me) the first thing i bought is the magnet that goes on ur oil filter, now after i have removed the filter on the next oil change. I rolled the filter on the floor and u can clearly see which side has all the metal stuck to it, also it weighted as if the whole filter was full of oil in it when i let it drain for over 10 min.
I think am gonna put that pulley on as well, se if more shavings get stuck on the magnet. Am at 32k and last oil change there where barely any shavings at all, so we'll see. |
I know, I know....reviving an old thread. I just wanted to say thanks to the OP for this DIY (reps given)! It helped me this past weekend when installing my NST lightweight crank and alternator pulleys.
A few notes: - I followed these install instructions to a 'T'. I started by removing the plastic splash guard and draining the radiator. Only after doing so and moving to the top of the engine, did I realize that there is more than enough room between the hoses to get leverage to remove the crank pulley bolt. If you want to save a step, you don't have to drain the radiator. You can just drain the overflow bottle, remove it, and you'll have access to the radiator fan bolts. Or, you can do like I did, and remove the overflow bottle bolts, leave the radiator cap in place, and once you remove the hoses to the overflow bottle, just invert the overflow bottle, leave the fluid in there, and remove the bottle. - I tried using an air ratchet to remove the crank pulley bolt, but that son of a b**** must have been put on there by the world's strongest man. I ended up using a breaker bar with about a 4 foot extension (as OP did). -There is no need to remove the alternator to remove the alternator pulley and bolt. With the air ratchet, it came off fairly easily. I just wanted to contribute to hopefully help others out in the future, as I thank everyone who came before me and wrote other DIYs which have helped me tremendously (including this one :tup:). |
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having issues my crank pulley keeps spinning with the nut what do i do i have an automatic so do i still need to jam the transmission ujoint with a tire iron?
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If it's in Park, you've already locked the output shaft. Trouble is, with the liquid coupling (torque converter), you have to lock the crankshaft. Can you get access to the starter ring? A big flat blade screw driver between two teeth and lodged against the trans case will provide that lock. It means you need a second pair of hands, though.
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