Could be slave cylinder. Could be the pressure plate too. The tech will have to take a look though to make sure. I doubt its air though

There's tons of thread on this. Like the other poster said, could be air, bad slave, bad master or cooked fluid (needing a flush).

If I was in your shoes I would be livid.

to red2010Z,

I am an extremely patient person but I feel like Job right now (if you are familiar with the biblical reference). They want to keep it over the weekend and look at it more on Monday. If I have to end up paying money something on Monday, then that would be the last straw for me.

- Sheebu

I hear ya boss man. But I am the type of person to raise hell over something like this. I understand stuff happens. But back to back is uncalled for. In my profession mistakes can cost losing peoples life. So I guess I just take major mistakes like this to heart.

Best of luck and hopefully they cover the bill.

I just got the car back and all seems well again. I decided to contact the mechanic directly instead of dealing with the service adviser because I had left the car at the dealership on the evening of May 2, 2013 and still wasn't really hearing anything about it's status. When I called the tech, he said that he had driven it a bunch of times and that he couldn't duplicate the issue. He was keeping it there longer to observe it but that he didn't want to hold me up. So then I explained to him what I was experiencing with the clutch pedal becoming sticky and not returning to the "rest" position. He said that the service adviser had not explained the problem to him like that. Furthermore, he immediately quoted the technical bulletin which says to bleed and replace the system with GTR fluid. I ended up just paying for the fluid but he wouldn't charge me for the labor. I hope this is the end for now...

Good luck. When I flushed my clutch fluid and replaced it with Ate Blue, the pedal feel greatly improved.

Quite the saga.

When they pulled the engine who knows what they disconnected. They may have disconnected the clutch line to get it out of the way. If you let it go dry it can be a bitch to bleed thanks to the hydraulic slave trapping air.

Anytime the clutch disc is pulled Nissan recommends replacing the slave since it is sensitive to contamination. Since they had to pull the clutch off the old engine in theory they should also replace the CSC (which is mounted to the transmission). This rarely happens though.

During the first 1.2k of mileage on the new shortblock, the motor didn't eat any oil probably because I kept the revs under 4K (following break-in procedures). After 1.2K, I had the oil changed and for the last 950 miles, I've been driving the car normally as I would with no reservations. Unfortunately, I am noticing oil consumption again. I told the tech about this and he added a BG additive.

Hopefully, the oil consumption will decrease and then stablize between the next few oil changes.

1) If you need an additive, something is wrong and needs to be fixed. Additives are only a temporary "fix."
2) 99% of additives are snake oil and either do no good or make things worse.

If this were an old engine that was on it's last leg, some type of additive might be beneficial and possibly get you a few more miles out of the engine. For a new engine, additives shouldn't be needed. The additive will only mask the problem (if it does anything at all).

:iagree:

:facepalm:
OP, you need a crate motor...

My replacement engines consumed oil until around 5-6k. Give it a little more time and keep an eye on the consumption. You should notice it get smaller and smaller with regular driving.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...lock3137mi.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...ckdipstick.jpg


- at 36,394 on the odometer right now
- it has been 3,137 miles since the short block was installed
- first oil change was done after 1,200 mile break-in period

1) 881 miles after the second oil change, I told the tech that I noticed oil consumption again and he put in some kind of BG moa additive which brought the level on the dipstick back up to full again.
2. Another 1056 miles has passed and this is where the dipstick reads now.

I called the tech and told him that I was bringing the car into the dealership to have it looked at again. He said he would give the Nissan hotline a call to see what they recommend.

I know cheshirecat that you said you're new motors ate oil for the first 5k-6k and then settled down and that I am only 3k in but this is the last year of my powertrain warranty and I want to get this resolved before it is too late.

P.S. - I am thinking about having them add an oil cooler? Maybe if the temps were brought down, it wouldn't burn any more oil?

You have a warranty on the engine (1yr/12k miles) that persists regardless of what state your powertrain warranty is in. I had mine changed at 58k and it was covered until a year or 70k, whatever came first.

Don't think that once you tick past that powertrain warranty period that all of your coverage expires. The parts and labor are individually warrantied by Nissan beyond your car's coverage. :)

The reason I'm advocating that you hold off on declaring the motor a failure is because you have that year/12k miles to evaluate the engine. If it's still an issue past 5k, you should absolutely follow up and get another block. There's no reason the engine should be consuming more than 1qt every 5k miles at that point. I'd say that "normal" oil burnoff is .5-.75qt per 5k.