Concern with Oil Cooler / Oil Temps
 

Hey everyone - I just had the 25 row Z1 oil cooler kit installed with the thermostatic switchplate as well. I know it has been cold here in Jersey (around 35-50 degrees depending on when I'm driving the car to work) but it seems like the oil temps have a hard time getting above 160 degrees unless the car is driven slightly harder. The highest I've seen is about 180 on a 50-60 degree day, which I know is more around the optimal temperature. Is it a problem if I keep seeing these 160ish degree temps? I'm sure it will probably be fine through the spring/summer as the temperature warms up, but I guess I expected the oil temps to get a bit hotter than that with the switchplate.

If you want higher oil temps in cold weather. You can always put duct tape across a couple of rows on the oil cooler. This blocks the air flow across the cooler. This is a cheap and easy way to do it. I've done it in the past. ;)

Hah sounds like a quick fix, but I'm still wondering if I should be really worried about running all winter with 160 degree oil temps... or am I just freaking out over nothing? Thought that damn thermostatic switch plate would fix that. heh

You have to play around with the number of rows to block with duct tape to get 180F. Other people have cut sheet aluminium or card board to block the air flow through the oil cooler.

I cut a small piece of dry carbon to go over my 25 row cooler. Used industrial strength velcro to hold it over the cooler.

Temps outside have been high 20s to low 30s. Oil temp sits right at 180*.

I have the same issue. My temps will get up to 180 with the 25row and the thermoplate if I drive long enough. My only problem is I only drive to and from work and its only 5 miles away. If im lucky maybeeee will hit 180 on the way home when its a tad warmer but never in the morning. I purposely don't take the highway either so I'm stop and go more to allow the car to warm up easier without going 70 on the highway with the cold wind. I don't feel it's an issue I just don't beat on the car at all unless it gets up to temp first.

160F shouldn't do any harm with normal street driving, but it's not optimal. The oil is thicker at lower temps and puts more stress on the oiling system, but I haven't heard of anyone having problems with it. As far as I can tell, it doesn't have much of an effect on lubrication, but I haven't seen any tests.
Keeping your engine load and RPMs low until the oil gets warm helps prevent problems.
As others have suggested, blocking part of the cooler during cold weather works well. Anything that will block the wind and not melt will work.
If there is an adjustment on the bypass, try it.

Agree with above. I remembered reading on the 350z forum, oil pressure is very high with cold oil temp, and dropped off significantly once oil reaches 100F. The only thing about oil temp not reaching 212F is that you won't be able to "cook off" any water that may have gotten into the oil. (370z oil temp is taken post oil cooler so 180F will equate to about 200F when circulating inside engine).

A few times, I just turned on the car and let it idle, took 30 min to get up to 180, then dropped str8 back to 160 within a few min once I get on the freeway, that's with 1/3 of the cooler covered up (34 row).

Just fúcking floor it and jack the temps up, lol

You california guys :shakes head: clearly you don't know what ice or cold weather is LOL. :icon23:

It was 39 degrees here a few weeks ago, pics on FB, lol

I let the oil circulate for a min and just drive harder to warm my oil up, lol


Honestly my Ester Oil takes FOREVER to warm up...

Check out post "fan temps"

Just wanted to point out a very common misconception: your oil does not need to reach 212F for the water to evaporate. Does a pot of water make no vapor until it boils? If you pour some water on the sidewalk in the summer does it stay there forever? For that matter a little puddle on your kitchen table evaporates quick enough doesn't it? You also have additional help from the oil itself. In very low quantities water is actually repulsed out of the liquid by the oil molecules. You just need it to get hot enough for the tiny amount of water to vaporize/be pushed out in the time your drive takes. This happens pretty quickly.

I've read this a few times here on the forums and seems to be generally accepted, +/- a few degrees.

OP, maybe when you're reading 160 it's actually 180.




Tapatalk & such etc

I have been told and remember reading something similar, that the oil temps are 20 degrees higher than shown