Great people to deal with at SpecialtyZ. Sebs did my car's tuning.

Do You also have to loose SRM on the 7AT?

In my case I'm more of a track junkie, love going to track days and autocross almost every other weekend, so nitrous is not going to work it for me.

Haha, the trade + cash idea might work. Then we'll switch some stuff over like wheels. Then you'll end up with my LED mods and such. I might be better off selling a stock-ish 370Z.

:iagree: Seb did the tuning on my car as well. Awesome guy! That's why I took my car back to him for the gears.

You don't lose down shift rev matching on the 7AT. However, I read it is off by a little. Same goes for the manuals. One member stated it was off by around 300 rpms (6MT) and that it wasn't even that noticeable.

before:
Stillen Gen 3
Berk TP
Invidia Gemini exhaust
Z1 tune
Also had a motordyne manifold for a couple weeks, but it did nothing at all for me, so I took it off and sold it.

difference now:
rear muffler section removed and replaced with glass packs to make room for diff cooler
headers and test pipes.

Do you think the 4.08 Gears will be a bad thing for drift application or autocross?
As in, they may be too short? And will have to be switching gears more times than needed?

I'm going to Seb's shop on Dec 3rd for a bunch of stuff to install. Gonna ask about the gears, see what's worth it.

I think the smartest thing to do for more power, is to research a turbo kit and go with it :)

one word, boost. I wish i saved all my money trying to avoid it. I did everything under the sun: intake/plenum, long tube headers, 4.08 gears, flywheel, crank pulley, uprev. Wasn't enough to scratch my itch heh

yea. its looking like im down to boosting the car. reliability worries me with boosting these cars tho

Common problem for a lot of N/A guys. I had long tube headers along with all the other bolt-on's minus the gears and pulleys. I didn't want pulleys bc there is a possibility albeit a remote one that you could set off your harmonic balancer and such risk wasn't work ~7whp. In hindsight gears would have been a great mod, I had 4.10's on my bolt-on 2004 Mustang GT and it was great, you will run at a slightly higher rpm while highway cruising but not enough to offset the gains in acceleration. Gears don't add power, they just get you into the meat of the powerband faster.

The reality is that the VQ37 is very well tuned from factory, after exhaust mods there just isn't much left to do. VVEL limitations have been discussed a million times over but really only the F/I guys stand to see real gains from it. That in itself is a problem because the potential market is very very small.

Go boost, it won't be cheap but if done right I'm sure it can be reliable. If that doesn't work for you sell and get a new platform to work with, parting out is a pain though.

If you guys want more thrill. Stay NA and track your car. It cost also but not as much as Going FI. You will more than satisfy some real needs.

of all the blown motors i have seem from fi, it seems like most were running higher than 9-10psi. havent seen many issues with ~8psi of boost on here

it's not so much about the boost in those cases, its the torque. with the correct timing adjustments our cars can run 12psi on 93 with stock compression. I would just advise staying in the range of 450-500whp/400-440tq, don't get greedy.

Find a good tuner, keep power within limits of stock internals, reduce boost when it gets colder out (cold weather == 30-50+hp). for the sake of your bearings, keep oil temps low (< 230), let the car warm up properly (> 160), change oil regularly. your engine should hold up for quite awhile.

with that said, anything can happen. be prepared to build. my engine just got finished at the machine shop, time for assembly :tup:

Built motor z34's are slowing coming out. Who is building your Z in LI? I'd love to check it out first hand.

must... resists urge... to buy... sts kit...

personal opinion: get in line for Boosted Performance mid mount or go GTM twins if you cant wait for that. I love twins but it would have taken me days to install the BP kit vs weeks for the GTM kit. I still have flashbacks of laying on the floor drilling my head...

short block was spec'd/machined/balanced by PCHS in Bohemia, assembly is going to be done by Real Auto Dynamics in Oceanside as I no longer have a place to work on my car :mad:

I agree get the mid mount kit, it just makes going boost so much easier by saving money.

Has anyone made a stroker kit for the vq37?
They way things sound makes me wanna do a fully built nitrous setup or maybe even look into sourcing a set of vvel cams. Theres always my thoughts of swapping to a SR or RB motor

4.2L stroker
GTM Motorsports*::*ENGINE INTERNALS*::*GTM 4.2 L Stroker kit-For the VQ35HR & VQ37VHR


4.5L stroker
GTM Motorsports*::*ENGINE INTERNALS*::*GTM 4.5 L Stroker kit-For the VQ35HR & VQ37VHR

an SR swap????

http://weknowmemes.com/wp-content/up...n-template.png

^ and a two year wait. Lol

Why not FI and track the car?

Doesn't Crower make a stroker kit? Nothing says you have to get it from GTM. You'd pretty much be in uncharted territory doing a big NA build though. You might spend 15k on a built stroker motor to make stock block turbo kit power.

NA is simpler. Less heat, less moving parts, lighter weight, and realiability.

There's no guarantee a built race motor is going to be substantially more reliable than a FI setup.

That's always true in any case. But a good quality builder on E85 will just about ensure its longevity.

Here's my before and after OBX eBay LTH, no tune.

For what a good, reliable stroker setup would cost, you could be deep into the "figure out how to stuff a LS into it" territory.

What's wrong with the GTM 550HP built motor for $25,000 :roflpuke2:?

Nothing at all. If you order it today, they can have it shipped to you by Christmas. Of 2024. :rofl2:

Are you a betting man?