Use CSF Radiator's Internal Radiator for ATs for Oil Cooler?
 

I noticed on Z1's site that the CSF radiator comes in two configurations. For ATs, the radiator "includes a seven row transmission fluid cooler included inside the radiator the same as the factory setup." My question is: for a MT car, could you use that internal radiator for oil cooling? Does anyone know what type of fittings are there for the internal radiator?

I'm going to venture a guess and say no as engine oil is probably much thicker. Best to just get a dedicated oil cooler setup IMHO.

I actually think they are pretty close in viscosity so I doubt that would be an issue.

OP, thought about doing this myself. I think viscosity differences would be a mute point. Just don't know if 7 row would be anywhere near enough though.

I'd really like to see some one do a oil cooling setup that uses the engine coolant as the cooling medium instead of the normal air to oil coolers. On a road course the air coolers are fine, but for autocross or anything stop and go related there's no air flow across the cooler.

Keep us updated on the results if you actually do this.

Yeah, I may try it. May have to contact CSF directly to see about fittings, though. Even though it is only a 7-Row, the heat capacity of coolant is orders of magnitude higher than air--particularly when there is little air flow at low speeds.

Just remember not to overcool -- you want it no colder than 180* F, and ideally no hotter than 240* F. Around 200-220 is the sweet spot.

7 row?? Lol awwww such a cute little thing!

Yeah, I would use a thermostat for that. I assume the water temp is about 180ish so that would work well.

im running a 25 row setrab oil cooler, only about 5 rows are showing, the rest covered by a metal plate since temperatures dropped to about 60 degrees here. still provides a good 10 degrees of oil cooling :)

I talked to CSF and they said it could be used as an oil cooler, but I am trying to figure out what type of connections they have. Gonna have to fab the connection lines myself.

200-220 is still hot for this car, you want 180-190... ideally.

Just my :twocents: but I'd probably just find a shop that makes hydraulic hoses and just get custom hoses made up with the right fittings on each end.

For modern synthetic oil, that's not really too hot. For dino oil, it would be pushing it. On that note, Nissan wouldn't wait until 260*F to go into limp mode if the oil viscosity was breaking down 40* earlier.

That said, you will see peak power at or below 200* F, and the ECU will start to pull a little timing over 205* F.

But... running too cold (say, 165* F), especially under high load, is generally worse than running a little hot, as far as maintaining proper lubrication.

There has been some discussion on this over on my vette forum. Interesting to note that '76 L-82 vettes, and some other model years, came from the factory with a 160 thermostat. Base engines had 180 I believe. Hotter running engines are more emissions friendly but a colder running engine is better for performance, so the debate goes on the vette forum. Knowledgeable folks, like engineers, agree that 160 is the minimum oil temp to protect the engine and 180 may be about ideal.

Keep in mind that water temp changes as it goes down the radiator core. It is significantly cooler as it exits, which is, I believe, closer to the location of the built-in core.

This is really the same idea as the factory oil cooler in the MY 12+, but it should have a much higher cooling capacity.

Thought I would share a picture of the connections on the CSF auto radiator.
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...DAD4594AF1.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...DADE7F76EA.jpg
There are a couple ways you could do this but we keep these in stock. We also have our Z1 oil cooler kits if you wanted a standalone cooler. This option is very similar to what Nissan added on later models but a little different because you are running the oil to the coolant instead of coolant to the oil.

Chuck, thanks for the pictures! I assume the trans-cooler ports, which I want to use for oil cooling, are the two smaller ports that are flared at the ends, right? I have thought about the air-to-air, but my preference would be for something more space efficient since I plan to go FI eventually. I don't think anyone has tried this yet so I hope to get it to work successfully.

Beta tester discount? J/K.

According to a few engine building books I've read through, 175* oil will tend to net a few extra whp on an engine dyno, so the 180* cut off for maximum power is probably bang on.

It's just tough to maintain EXACTLY 180* it seems. A lot of the guys running air cooled oil coolers have to use block off plates in the winter to get the oil up to the 180* region, and they tend to see the oil take longer to get up to temp the rest of the year.

I think the best set up for a DD would be a water cooled 200*F tstat oil cooler. I think a big air cooled one is over kill on a DD.

I've been just adding metal fins to my oil pan (the Arc "cool fins") and they work remarkably well. I never see over 225* F beating on it in the summer, and cool down time is fast. Typical driving temps (which are always a little "spirited") I see around 185* - 208*.

As to the thermostat on the older 'vettes, that was probably set for dino oil ideals.

Modern synthetics can really hold together as high as 280*- 300*+ before catastrophic engine failure is a serious risk (or so I've read), but Nissan is wise to shut down the engine well before it ever gets anywhere near that.

I'd like to see the oil temp effect of the CSF radiator. During spirited driving and in traffic.

Where are you sourcing your ARC cool fins?

Yes the two small flared ports are for the transmission cooler.

We have seen decreased temps across the board when adding the upgraded radiator. If you are planning to go FI in the future I would suggest the external cooler but for daily driving this would be neat.

Hate to bump an old thread.... but did anyone try this?