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-   -   Injector power gain with NA? (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/61965-injector-power-gain-na.html)

Mino 10-16-2012 12:06 PM

Injector power gain with NA?
 
Hey guys, I have had my Z for about 3 months now and I'm ready to start modding it I did a baseline and the car put down about 253whp stock I was told that the dyno I used read 12% lower then DynoJet. So I'm right on the 280 mark, love this car more and more every time I drive it. Here is my plan for the car I will be doing a lot of track events next year

1. 25 row oil cooler
2. 3" single exit exhaust
3. test pipes with a ebay Y-pipe
4. Stillen Gen3
5. Dyno tune
6.

Number 6 I'm thinking about doing bigger injectors but I don't plan on FI any time soon. I don't know if I will gain any power from it that's why I wanted to ask here with a tune and those mods, the injectors will they give me power? I was also thinking about doing pulleys too. Just wanted to make a bit more then 300+whp the more the better :tup:

Thank you guys.

DIGItonium 10-16-2012 12:41 PM

IIRC, the only reason why you would want to go for bigger injectors is because you're saturating the stock ones or you want to switch to E85. With larger injectors, you have to get a tune or your engine won't sputter at all (dumping too much fuel into the cylinders). IMO, more work than it's worth if you're not going FI.

Mino 10-16-2012 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIGItonium (Post 1964763)
IIRC, the only reason why you would want to go for bigger injectors is because you're saturating the stock ones or you want to switch to E85. With larger injectors, you have to get a tune or your engine won't sputter at all (dumping too much fuel into the cylinders). IMO, more work than it's worth if you're not going FI.

Oh alright thank you any other bolt on mods you think I can do to make more power? except headers?

lemon-fresh 10-16-2012 02:37 PM

pulley kit

LafitteZ 10-16-2012 03:01 PM

Light clutch and flywheel asap

SS_Firehawk 10-16-2012 03:05 PM

M370 manifold, flywheel, TP's/ART PIPES/HFC's/RTP'S/RHFC's. Not a bolt on, but get Uprev...

Mino 10-16-2012 03:08 PM

Thanks guys, light weight flywheel would I need to change the stock clutch if it's in a good condition? and the flywheel would it make it loud?? that chutter sound?

DIGItonium 10-16-2012 03:11 PM

Maybe try to shed weight from the car? Every little bit helps... but it might cost you a bit (e.g., light weight seats, wheels, etc.).

When you go in for the tune, have them adjust the fan settings so it kicks in earlier and adjust the throttle map so the ECU will allow you to open it up more especially down low. Reference the tuning subforum.

[EDIT] IIRC, your might not be as daily drivable with this suggestion: shed weight down to 2800 lbs. Forged stripped down their stock Z to the bare essentials, and they managed to get it under 2800 lbs. or so and the car was highly competitive against the likes of Porsche on the track. Other than that... force induction is the way to go if you're going to spend more than $3k for N/A power.

Mino 10-16-2012 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIGItonium (Post 1965065)
Maybe try to shed weight from the car? Every little bit helps... but it might cost you a bit (e.g., light weight seats, wheels, etc.).

When you go in for the tune, have them adjust the fan settings so it kicks in earlier and adjust the throttle map so the ECU will allow you to open it up more especially down low. Reference the tuning subforum.

[EDIT] IIRC, your might not be as daily drivable with this suggestion: shed weight down to 2800 lbs. Forged stripped down their stock Z to the bare essentials, and they managed to get it under 2800 lbs. or so and the car was highly competitive against the likes of Porsche on the track. Other than that... force induction is the way to go if you're going to spend more than $3k for N/A power.

Oh alright thank you what redline would you recommend? I hear some people have up to 8300 some 7800 so on. Which would be good since I will be using a lot of the 2-3rd gears without blowing my engine.

Navyboy916 10-16-2012 04:42 PM

I would ht mess with the redline. I say this cause at uprev I asked the same question and due to the cams profile no power is gain passed about 7200 rpm. So I just left it where it is. Just some inside knowledge.

Mino 10-16-2012 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Navyboy916 (Post 1965221)
I would ht mess with the redline. I say this cause at uprev I asked the same question and due to the cams profile no power is gain passed about 7200 rpm. So I just left it where it is. Just some inside knowledge.

Thank you anything special I should ask for when I get the uprev tune?

edub370 10-16-2012 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lemon-fresh (Post 1964972)
pulley kit

I Wouldn't...

too many horror stories of lightweight crank pulleys welding themselves to the crank

Navyboy916 10-16-2012 05:59 PM

Not really just make sure ur a/f is right around 12.63 that's what uprev said is the optimal target area. Don't mess with the redline or the line pressure for a NA car there is no reason for these. Just make sure they get the A/F ratio correct.

lemon-fresh 10-16-2012 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edub370 (Post 1965310)
I Wouldn't...

too many horror stories of lightweight crank pulleys welding themselves to the crank

Not sure that's much of a horror story. The same thing can happen to the stock pulleys over time. Why would you want to remove them?

Navyboy916 10-16-2012 06:09 PM

I have heard do many bad things about the pulleys. The motor is a great engine and messing with the pulleys can damage the motor. It's just my view I just wouldn't recommend it

lemon-fresh 10-16-2012 06:15 PM

Crazy, I've been reading up on the NST kit and haven't heard anything negative about them.

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...no-charts.html

Could you guys point me to some examples?

SS_Firehawk 10-16-2012 10:58 PM

MY pulley's kick arse. Best $190 I spent ever (Group Buy). I'm biased and defend em vehemently. It's the one mod where I found the difference instantly noticeable. Redline should stay stock unless your running out of RPM at the track and it's more beneficial to stay in that gear than shift. Changing exhaust cams and intake manifold can move it. But I believe the Motordyne manifold would regress power peak by a few hundred rpm with it's longer runners. There is still power over 7.5k, but you are on the other side of the hill.

lemon-fresh 10-17-2012 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS_Firehawk (Post 1965832)
MY pulley's kick arse. Best $190 I spent ever (Group Buy). I'm biased and defend em vehemently. It's the one mod where I found the difference instantly noticeable. Redline should stay stock unless your running out of RPM at the track and it's more beneficial to stay in that gear than shift. Changing exhaust cams and intake manifold can move it. But I believe the Motordyne manifold would regress power peak by a few hundred rpm with it's longer runners. There is still power over 7.5k, but you are on the other side of the hill.

Not the first time I've heard that. I'm pulling the trigger on a set. How long did it take your mechanic to do the installation?

edub370 10-17-2012 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lemon-fresh (Post 1965335)
Not sure that's much of a horror story. The same thing can happen to the stock pulleys over time. Why would you want to remove them?

to go to a supercharger. light weight pulleys usually wont work well with sc's

there's a vid floating around youtube somewhere showing the lengths a company is having to do to remove a lw crank pulley that is fused to the crank. maybe someone can chime in on who/where this vid is

lemon-fresh 10-17-2012 11:30 AM

Yea, I won't be going beyond 500hp on this car so it should be fine. You also need to make sure to add an anti-seizing compound before you install them. Same thing can happen to the stock pulleys.

SS_Firehawk 10-17-2012 12:45 PM

I had pulley's done with my CAI , intake manifold and oil cooler. Mechanics had the car for a couple days. They mentioned the alternator pulley difficult to reach and takes some effort to get them off. The key was tight on the crank pulley, they just shaved it a bit and got it on there. They got that done in about 4 hours. IT helped the front end was taken apart while working on it.


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