The oil cooler on the 2012 is an oil-water intercooler that is as worthless as the proverbial t*ts on a bull. I routinely see 230 degree plus oil temps with normal driving here in AZ (~110+ temps). I plan to remove the factory sandwich plate when I get around to adding the Z1 34 row cooler...mainly because I've read that its a PITA to remove the filter with both plates sandwiched together...

So a 25 row oil cooler should fix this for daily driving.....is that basically the solution ?

I had a Stillen 19-row Oil Cooler installed which greatly improved (if not eliminated) the bogging issue...oh yes, my NISMO would bog bad in the heat.

Stillen 19-row Oil Cooler installed by MAC Autosports review

I'm going 34 row, and UpRev tune with the cooling fan tune. I don't believe an oil cooler alone will fix this...I read in the other thread, that someone has the 25 row oil cooler (no tune) and still has the delay 100% of the time. Hell...I'm not even sure the oil cooler AND the tune will fix it, but from other posts here, it sounds like it does improve it dramatically.

SOOO pissed at Nissan for not addressing this properly...

That should do it :tup: I wonder if the NISMO has a bit of an advantage since it has such a big, unobstructed "grill"/intake. The installers said that they didn't have to do any trimming whatsoever even though the Stillen instructions indicated that it would be necessary.

No cutting required for the Z1 Motorsports kit. Its a direct bolt in (except for drilling one hole for an upper bracket as I understand it). I just ordered it, will report back when I get a chance to install it. I'm going to try the cooler alone first...

This thread might help.

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...t-morning.html

It may at the very least persuade you to see a Nissan dealer.

I do plan to take it in...mainly to document this problem...I guarantee that if I get into an accident due to this issue, I WILL be retaining an attorney.

What was described in this thread is not my issue. I don't "lose" power at higher RPM's, the car just falls on its face as you push the accelerator typically after the car is moving at lower RPM's, in first gear, when its hot outside...

I live in LA Area, it gets hot here, and the Z is going to be my DD so I'm really going to watch out for this.

Never thought an NA engine would have this kind of issue...

My friends with oil coolers 25, 34 and UpRev don't seem to experience this issue. When I asked them it seemed unheard of. The cooler is def essential and the ecu kicks in after 225ish and cuts torque.

As soon as I get the car I'm getting that 34 row oil cooler and bolting it on with my buddy... nuff said heh. It is mind boggling how Nissan would not raise the car price by 600 bux and put a better oil cooler setup in place. At the very least, add it as a 'hot climat' recommended accessory item or what not.

curious to see if this issue is indeed the engine getting really hot at 220ish or more...

You realize that SM oil is formulated to provide lubrication up to a constant 300*F. Why do you think the car goes into limp mode at 280*F? Getting too close to 300*F so they program the ecu to force a cool down period to save your engine from potential damage. Oil worries at temps of 260*F are long gone with newer oil specs. 220*F? That's relatively cool for cars being built now.

apparently nissan engineers disagree with u;) it's been a known fact that the ecu pulls timing on our car at anything over 220. sucks but it is what it is. once tuners can fully understand our ecu's and program this stuff the 370 will be a beast. the torque management needs to go as well, war too intrusive IMHO.

I was talking limp mode when overheating becomes severe. Any ecu in any vehicle will pull timing to prevent 'ping' which is more prone to happen as the engine gets hotter. So, the engineers have that figured out and developed the maps in the ecu. The tuners are limited to how much advance can be introduced in the timing maps of the ecu afaik. I've played with these maps when I had my Harley. They are all similar in their function. You can increase the timing but up to a limit and then it won't let you go any higher. That limit was as high as ~48* or more advance depending on load/rpm for my Harley. You wouldn't want to go any higher than that anyway to be safe. You could also adjust your AFR directly or 'fool' the ecu to increase the AFR by increasing the values in the volumetric efficiency map - increase fuel. Run a little richer and add a little advance. That said, tuners do have limitations but there is a fair bit of leeway. All cars pull timing or vice versa, add timing, under the prevailing operating condition. Tuners just put timing closer to the edge which is less safe for your engine. So, you better have a darn good tuner because they are not all the same and it can fuk your engine.


Edit: Just to add, your timing is retarded when the anti-knock sensor (a common method) detects a knock or ping. Lower octane gas can bring on the onset of pinging and the resultant retarding of the timing which equals to a loss of performance. Using higher octane gas is the reverse. Unless you've had an ecu tune, Nissan most likely tuned our ecu's for the most commonly available gas, 91 octane.

UPDATE: Installed the Z1 Motorsports 34 row cooler this morning. Also deleted the worthless POS factory "cooler" (seriously Nissan?) by removing it and looping the 2 hard coolant lines together with a piece of hose. Reused the factory Oil filter bung, it worked with the Z1 Thermostatic plate just fine. (This is not clear in the Z1 instructions, and they were a little confused as well when I called them...they told me I needed the oil filter bung from a 2009-2011).

Drove around this afternoon and evening (ambient air temps between 98-114). Car runs about 195-205 now, a ~35 degree drop from previous normal city driving (previously 225-235 normal oil temps).

I noticed the "Bog" is greatly diminished (but still present) which again points to Nissan's shitty ECU programming. Next step will be an UpRev tune (with cooling fan tune). Still not quite there yet, but the car is at least MUCH more driveable.

I'd seriously like to know where Nissan did their hot weather testing...Canada? There is NO chance they did hot weather testing here in AZ during the summer...or they have the WORST engineers on the planet...sheesh.

IMO, they just went overboard trying to keep drivetrain damage to a minimum due to high oil temps.

If they didn't add a means to protect the engine, how many yahoos who abuse their engines would be into the dealer looking for a warranty replacement? Let your tuner put your engine closer to the edge. Do you think they will offer you a warranty if you blow your engine after a tune?

:iagree:

So interestingly enough, my car has had that "dead spot" in the lower RPM range lately, and I have an oil cooler. My temps weren't even past 200 I believe, at the time. I've also noticed that randomly while idling in neutral, the motor will suddenly drop RPM briefly as if it's about to die, and then catch back up again. It seems completely random when it happens - I'm tempted to pull my MAF's and clean them out a bit, or at least reset my ECU. Fairly convinced it's a tuning issue for me.

LOL. It feels like am going to "overclock" my car with an UPREV tune. ;) Pretty funny but I do feel they were very conservative with the tune to prevent damage when the engine gets too hot. But I do get to 220 pretty easy and the bogging is getting old.

my car also seemed like it wanted to die at idle. this happened when the car was completely stock. I then added g3's, 19 row cooler, berk exhaust and tune and the car still bogged down at idle. I thought it might have been the fans kicking on and putting load on the electrical system but the two wound up being unrelated. I still don't know what it could be, I had the fan control tune from uprev and it did not help. whatever it is, it has never happened on my g37 sedan.

I'm hoping my 2012 is not gonna go down that path. I'm planning to do an oil cooler install after I get the springs, stabilizer bars and spacers done with.

if u haven't experienced it yet then your probably good. mine did it intermittently since new. I don't notice any loss in performance but it cant be normal or else everyone would have this annoyance.

Interesting. I have 09.
no cooler (although it is my next mod) no bog (and I do get after the car with some spirited driving now and then)

I have upreved my car with bolt ons.

I wonder if I just haven't noticed the bog, but sounds like I is hard to miss. Hmm.

I have definitely noticed VDC bogs, but the VDC light is always flashing when it happens.

Ill stay tuned in here to see if somebody discovered the cause. Good luck!

So the bog issue must be a heat-soak issue of some sort, Im guessing. I DEFINITELY got it (it even threw a code at me) when I was at the track last time. That track session was a lot of high-revving with little airflow (braking maneuvers) into the engine bay. I cleared the code and I was right as rain, but the throttle was definitely a bit laggy.

do you by any chance remember what the code was?

my z is starting to have this bogging issue when i first turn on the car and drive through 1st gear, after the car warms up it disappears, started at 80,000 miles. any update as to why this is happening?

that's bizarre... it usually happens the other way around - absent when cool
but bogs when hot

So has there been any new insight on what is causing this issue? I have it happening once my engine oil temp hits around 180+

i think a lot of people are correlating the bogging to oil temperature incorrectly. For those without any form of OBD2 monitoring devices, you can't see the coolant temp in numeric form or intake air temp, more importantly.

So people get the bog, then they glance around the gauges. The only temperature gauge that is close to being a proper gauge is the oil temp gauge. 180*f is hardly hot in terms of oil temperature. Until you monitor your intake air temperature, you guys are all being misled.

And using the onboard ambient display as a reference to compare IAT against isnt wholly accurate either. This is due to the slow response of the sensor plus the computer's slow refresh frequency. But at least it's a starting point.

Anyway, all i have to say is to watch those intake air temperatures. You'll be surprised!

Clean ur throttle bodies from gunk build up due to engines unburned exhaust gases that circulate back through the intake in order to burn them so that nissan can pass emissions. Theres a DIY on this site how to do it, also you can adjust your fuel settings slightly lower on idle if you have up rev tuner or ecuteck.

UPDATE: I gave up and sold the car. Last Nissan I will ever buy...having owned and driven a plethora of modern fuel injected cars with drive by wire, it's simply unacceptable to have to deal with this in a modern fuel injected car. It wasn't even acceptable 30 years ago when I was messing with Holley carbs, and their propensity to blow power valves, but at least back then I could tune it and repair the PV when it blew.

I took the Nissan to the dealer several times and WAS ABLE TO REPLICATE THE PROBLEM WITH THE TECH IN THE CAR, and their response varied between abject cluelessness and "oh that's totally normal". :confused:

Sorry...it was a fun (and beautiful) car but not dealing with this issue every summer. Too many other cars out there that run properly. Thanks to all who offered inputs to try to solve this issue.

Sooo I had this problem after installing my cbe and figured it was back pressure and after installing my g3 intake it's right back up and I get to spin for a good 30 seconds lol

Or lack thereof :)

Yep, enjoy w/e else u get.

Is anyone driving a 2015. Just curious if the condition is present in those cars.