Alternator, starter, battery problems anyone?
 

Car was starting weak on warm starts for several months. So a few months ago I dropped a new battery in. Car still consistently starts weak on warm starts. Today I fired up the car and as it was starting simultaneously the battery light and the check engine light came on then flashed off right before the car died and then the car got its strength and started. Very scary feeling. Here is a few thoughts.

Anyone have problems with the starter?
Anyone have problems with their alternator?

Even though I have had exhaust and drop ins for a while along with a zenclosures set up and a kenwood double din, is their a possibility the ECU is going haywire?

Car consistently runs around 14.2-14.5 volts

Scheduled for service Friday and am gonna have them thoroughly inspect the alternator and starter and battery again before my warranty ends in 500 MILES!!!!

check parastic drain first.

if your volt meter is showing 14+ your alternator is probably ok.

btw, i have no issues with starter or alternator.

CEL .... scan that baby!!

^^^ Never had a cell light for the last 36k Miles. The Cel light just blinked with a few other lights during the attempted startup

Also, not sure what the parastic drain is

check online/youtube on how to find your drain. i think there's something in your car that's draining your battery.

one very quick way to tell is unplug your battery when you're done with the car for the day tonight and plug the battery onto a charger. then connect the battery back to your car tomorrow am just before heading out to see if the car starts right up or not. :)

On cold starts in the morning after sitting overnight or for several hours and the car is a freaking beast.

Possible bad FUEL FILTER?

oh ok, so you're saying cold start is okay but warm start is no go. gotcha.

never mind then. :D

Would it be of value to request a fuel pressure check. Has anyone had to replace the fuel filter or pump or injectors yet? Trying to think of all problems besides just battery or alternator for the sputtering and hesitation to crank and sometimes idle

i have had the same problem like almost a year. sometimes it took me 4-5 times to start the engine. Last week it took me like 15 times To start. i took To The dealer, they could not find any problems or codes. any one found the problems? thanks

Hey guys. It may be a fuel pressure regulator issue. I have a 2004 nissan sentra with this same issue. They have a TSB for the sentra that replaces the fuel pressure regulator. My 370z has this warm start issue once in a while. It is a 2010 7AT.

Have you guys tried priming the car prior to start? Don't depress brakes but push start button to turn on ACC then wait 5 secs and then start?

Azndung did you figure out what is your problem? Trying 15 times sounds like some other issue.

Ok.. I just got my new battery yesterday which was 5th battery under advance auto parts warranty. Long story short, I had serious battery drain issue since I got my car new in 2009. I couldn't realize that there was drain because I drove z everyday. After I purchased an another daily car in 2011, I noticed this issue. Took her to the dealer 3 times and they couldn't finde any problem. I finally decided to do a parastic drain test yesterday right after installed new battery. I found total draw to be around 500 to 600 mA. General rule of thumb specs are 50mA maximum. When pulling the push start fuse, the draw drops by about 20mA. VIOLA~:nutswinger: I looked up the diagram and brown wire from push start switch directly goes into BCM. I know the switch is not bad cuz without pulling fuse, disconnected switch, total draw was not changed. The total draw changed only when the fuse were removed. MAybe the BCM is bad???? As of now, still can't figure out what's the problem. Any one had been done test or fixed battery issue, please help!!:tiphat:

I had the same issue were the engine was stalling on warm starting. What it needed is a just a little throttle body cleaner sprayed on the air inlet throttle valves. There is a small gap from which air passes when engine is idling and throttle valve closed. When this gap gets dirty the engine stalls....Make sure you buy a throttle body cleaner (not brake disc cleaner etc). Just unscrew the jubilee clip of the air intakes hoses, lever it with a screw driver, spray three to four puffs on each throttle valves and start and test drive.

im having same problem.whats the verdict?

radmit do you have pics of the the piece you unclip and where you spray