I have this issue as well. Just started last week while on the track. My brake fluid is at max...

I've got the same issue just started recently. Comes on 100% of the time right when I start the car, even with full brake fluid. Tis a bummer.

I had a wheel sensor replaced, but that didn't fix it. Waiting to get a more detailed diagnosis now. This thing has cost me three track days. :( Let me know if you learn more!

Same here. Consult tool test determined front left wheel speed sensor which I replaced immediately with no results:icon14:

Do you have any mods on your car? I'm running EcuTek, though I have not had issues with it until now. I also just got my calipers rebuilt, but again, I had those inspected after the incident.

I checked the DTCs with EcuTek and got the following:

C1109 Nissan - Battery Voltage
ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit) power voltage is too low.

C1107 Nissan - Front Right Sensor 2
- ABS Wheel Sensor not installed currently
- ABS Wheel Sensor rotor or encoder damaged
- ABS Wheel Sensor rotor loose on axle
- Faulty ABS Wheel Sensor
- ABS Wheel Sensor harness is open or shorted
- ABS Wheel Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty ABS Control Unit

K&N Typhoon intakes.

Turned out it was my front right wheel bearing that was in need of replacement. You might want to check your's to see if it's the same issue.

I had this happen once and it was the c clip on the axle stub letting it pop in and out over bumps enough that the sensor was going nuts. $1.80 for a new c clip later and it was gone. wheel bearings and brake fluid levels do it too.

how did you figure that out?

I caught it at just he right time. It would happen to me when i gave it power in a turn over a bump so i did that in a parking lot and as soon as it came on i stopped the car and got out and checked and i had to push the drivers side stub flange back in about 1\8 inch til it clicked in. Replaced the snap ring and it hasnt popped out since.

I forgot another thing that can do this is getting an alignment done or taking the steering wheel off and not reseting the 0 position on the steering angle sensor.

OK. thanks. i will check those things.

Just changed my wheel hub. All lights are gone!:tup:

Awesome! I noticed when we changed the hub on mine that there was a difference between my old 2009 hub and the new part from Nissan. The new hubs appear to be sealed on the inside, probably to keep out dirt and debris. I plan to change the others out as preventative maintenance.

This happened to me as well. It's been doing it more often during hard acceleration.

Top off brake fluid slightly past max level

Ok I'll test it out.

finally, this thing was annoying as hell, the red exclamation and slip light going on solid until i restart and it happens every time, it makes me paranoid..

sorry for the newb question but should i check the brake level when the car is off or on? and you said to top it off, but the other 2 guys on the first page of this thread said dont top it off bc when you do a brake change, it will overflow and make a mess?

which brake fluid do we use and whats it called? im just going to buy it from the nissan dealership

Doesn't matter if the car is off or on when checking brake fluid.
Use a DOT 3/4 compatible brake fluid. Doesn't matter what brand. I use Valvoline Synthetic and have no issues.
Don't worry about fluid overflow until you change brake pads and then you can use a syringe to suck some out.

Last question, I read somewhere that some cars you need to pump the brake like 20 times before checking the brake fluid or topping off, do we need to do that? And thanks for the reply

Not on this car. Just add brake fluid and be done with it.

One thing I noticed about my clutch fluid....
When I use the expensive redline synthetic my fluid gets dark really quickly around a week, but when I use the cheaper Valvoline which is what I normally use it remains clear for months. I flushed the redline and went back to Valvoline and no issues so far:confused:

What kind of Redline fluid did you use?

It doesn't explain your experience between the different fluids, but I've battled the clutch hydraulic system in this car extensively. Try not pushing the clutch pedal all the way down - only push down enough to engage/disengage the clutch. The master cylinder is really weak and "stabbing" at the clutch and extending the full stroke of the master can let fluid past the interior seals allowing contaminants into the system.

Would a stop somewhere in the linkage or a block on the floor under the pedal help?

rl 600

I considered looking into a taller rubber stop at the end of the the pedal stroke. But I found the minor modification in my driving habits have kept my clutch fluid reservoir much cleaner for much longer than previously. I used to change it at least every 6 months just because it was dirty, but it's been over 6 months since the last bleed and still looks pretty much new.

Frankly, if Nissan is going to use a master cylinder that can't handle a full stroke of the stock clutch pedal without being compromised, then they should have implemented some sort of stop or design element to prevent the issue from occurring at all.