Update - Fluid flushed & adjusted
 

Before sending in the clutch disc for RMA, I finally got around to getting the clutch pedal rod adjusted as suggested. Along with that, there was stuff floating in the fluid so it was completely flushed.

The engagement point is a bit lower now, and it takes a little bit of getting used to. The car still crawls a little bit every once in awhile, but now I'm able to shift much more quick and smooth. So I finally made it through the day without getting stuck getting in and out of gear, so it's nice.

I'll give it a week before doing high RPM shift testing, but so far I am able to shift a bit quicker without grinding.

With the lower engagement point there's quite a bit of pedal play, so hopefully swapping out the springs will help.

only thing i have noticed is that i have to push the clutch firmly to the flor when the tranny is cold to get in gear. once everything is warm it is ok though. Can't say i noticed any first gear creep though.

The last thing you want to do is lower the engagement point if you are having release issues. This will make it even harder to disengage/shift.
The HR and VHR have a very high engagement point and it gets even higher with a aftermarket clutch but it needs to be there, You just can't lower it or you effect the clutch release.

So adjusting the clutch rod effectively changes the engagement point? The tech said it was adjusted all the way in one direction and noticed the CSC throw wasn't very far. After making the adjustments, the CSC was finally pushing further into the fingers of the clutch.

When I left for work this morning, it was the first time I wasn't stuck in any of the gears since picking up the car. So there is noticeable improvement other than the engagement point being a bit lower than usual, so it does feel a bit awkward at some point as if I'm losing pressure.

Most definitely,
If it was too far adjusted out then it may have been an issue, It needs to be "correct"
Adjustment is very finicky on these cars, If it feels mushy now it may be a little to loose or it still has air in it. A poorly adjusted master will make it very hard to bleed also.

Digi, good to hear you're seeing improvements. Sounds like you've messed with basically every component of the system. G'luck on your high RPM testing...and don't forget "granny-shifting, not double-clutching like you should...you're lucky you haven't blown the welds on the intake"

p.s. Do you have any videos of your car? It's basically awesome...

Thanks... you can find the thread with video here:
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...-turn-key.html

Looks like I'm still having issues. Gear shift is still getting stuck. So with pedal fully depressed, the car moves when the shifter is at the 1st and R gate (won't go in). But I can get it to go in 3rd, then I'm able to get in 1st or R and the car stops moving. While driving it's not too bad, but still gets a bit notchy at times. Then at the red light, it's tough getting into 1st. Seems like a more common occurrence now with the cooler weather.

Might do high RPM test today to see if I'm able to to shift into 2nd without grinding.

Yeah, pretty much same here. No issues at all with creep, but sometimes had to double pump the clutch to get into first.

That's normal with low trans oil temp. The syncro's don't work all that well when the fluid is thick, the input shaft stops spinning too quickly.

I'm going through similar problems mines a complete grind going into 2nd not at high RPM though happens on low RPM around 2k 2.5K will grind/ skip across itself for about 12-15 times that's 12-15 individual grinds i feel before it goes into gear.
that situation has happened about 10 or 12 times and 1 time it would not let me in 2nd at all had to pull over restart car then i could go in 2nd.

Ive been battling with the dealer for the last two moths in and out of it at least 5 times for this problem now. dealer says they cant replicate so i should call Nissan directly to open a file and get some one else to look at it.
did that about 4 weeks ago and today got a call back from Nissan saying they are unwilling to send a technician until the dealership finds the problem.

For me that last call from Nissan was the last straw and i will be seeking a lawyer and going for lemon laws now its ridiculous how little help some one gives you after you just hand over all this money for a car.
I'm NEVER buying Nissan again and will make sure every one i know knows of my experience knows how little Nissan will help them if they ever get in trouble and seriously urge them to spend there money on a different car company

My cars clutch is not balanced correctly causing the input bearing to whine. I can feel the vibration in the shift knob while at idle. My car only has 10k miles and I just bought it used with the mileage. Did not notice the tranny problem until I had driven it for a few days. Seems to shift just fine, but it is chewing up the input shaft bearings and pilot bearing. This is easy to tell if the car is making whine pressing the clutch if it stops then it's the clutch. Could be a bad batch of pressure plate with a balance problem.

You have a better chance of seeing god than getting Nissan to replace the tranny from the whine

The cars do this brand new, this is normal. Slight whine on the input shaft when no gear is engaged, and it goes away on clutch in. Slight transmission vibration felt through the shift knob. Just accept it as normal and enjoy the car - it's a Nissan trademark.

I've just read the 10 pages of posts while seating at work and it is really causing me to think twice about picking up a new Z after winter is over. I mean every car has its problems just like everybody else stated. So you can be one of the lucky ones and not notice any of this or you can be one of the unlucky ones have notice all of this.

I'm coming from a 08 WRX that (even tho they explode easy with high hp numbers) my transmission shifted like butter. I never had a problem shifting any gears or from a stand still getting into any gears. But others just like here with the same car did have problems shifting so it could have been like I said I was one of the lucky ones.

Evos have the same problems these Z's have. A week master cylinder that blows all the time (my buddies blew on his 10 at least 4x, 2 OEM and 2 aftermarket) not driving under harsh conditions either just driving down the highway. Weak clutches that go after 2k miles and mitsubishi wont be covering it under warranty.

All cars have there problems by it self that some might not have but others will. This is still causing me to rethink getting one after winter is over. It is either the new Z, STi or Evo. Really want the Z but with the transmission problems idk if I should tempt it or not.

In the scheme of things it has been a pretty small percentage of people that had issues with the slave cylinder. I beat mine up regularly on the track and haven't had an issue so far, I just change out the clutch fluid regularly.