The Magnusson Moss act puts the onus on the dealership and manufacturer to PROVE that any aftermarket part is directly responsible for the failure of said part. What they often do, is count on the fact that you as a consumer don't often contest for your rights when they claim to "void" your warranty.

The reality is, they can not void your warranty until they can provide ample proof that the aftermarket part you installed did indeed lead directly to the failure of the transmission, and if you go in prepared (i.e. with a lawyer familiar with the Magnusson Moss Act), 10 times out of 10 they will know you mean business and would rather take care of the issue under warranty than having to fight and prove that the part directly lead to the failure (and most times it's impossible to prove).

Remember, the burden of proof lies with the manufacturer and dealership, NOT YOU. It's a common ploy by dealerships to threaten to void your warranty, but I've NEVER seen it done even when there's clear evidence that the part(s) installed may have lead to the failure of the part, especially not when the consumer is well prepared to defend his/her rights.

Just my 2 cents.

I would be very interested, but after owning the 350Z and going through 1 transmission my dealership will definitely void the warranty regardless. I also want to change out the clutch and flywheel, but I'd have warranty issues as well. :-(

If you guys could drive my car, you wouldn't be waiting any longer to order this piece... especially at that price.

All the bugs are worked out. The shifter kicks a$$.

We also have these items available for ya'll. We're direct with B&M and have special pricing on them also. Let us know if we can help.

Stillen always has great pricing and products as well.

No group buy necessary either
B&M Short Shifter 350Z/370Z/ G35/G37

Since Josh were contacted first and were first to step up and offer the GB, I would appreciate if you guys give him the first shot. Once he is sold out then looks like INTENSEPOWER has them in stock as well. (see below).

370Z shifting mechanism feels a lot crisp and precise than the 350Z yet the long, dull throw ruins it. This short shifter (I personally believe) is a must have. Killerbee and many other members had really good experience with it and it's on my list of things once the NAV/Audio stuff is out of the way.

Thanks Josh for the GB and INTENSEPOWER for keeping them in your inventory. You guys will move them quick!

I have one installed c/o DDM, and I'd definitely recommend it if you prefer a shorter throw. You definitely feel the gears more and it has less compliance so you always know where you are at and never any second guessing about which gear you are in when you put your hand on the shifter. The trade-off is that some may describe it as to notchy.

I thought in the past short shift kits for the 350Z increased the likelihood of gearbox damage. This is why I hesitate to get a short shifter. I've tried it on my friend's WRX, and got hooked! That's if the short shifter doesn't worsen the notchiness. Any of you guys switched gearbox fluid as well?

I haven't yet, but believe maybe socal or semtex has, to good effect... will get to mine later

KillerBee, which bugs exactly, and how were they worked out?

Installed mine last night and so far enjoying it so much. I had an aftermarket shift knob but it sucks so I have returned to the stock shift knob, which I am enjoying more now. And yes, we did not have to destroy my stock shift knob to get it off, took a good amount of effort not to destroy it.

For those who have changed shift knobs, what have you ordered?

Hold the phone. DIY?

I followed this, DIY: B&M 45163 short shift kit in 370Z, and there are instructions (pictures are 350Z though) that come with the shifter which are about the same.

If you guys received the shifter in the group buy, make sure to call B&M and talk to one of the service representatives and ask for the lock washers in place of the OEM flat washers when you install. Or go to a local auto hardware store and buy 3 serrated lock washers for like $.30 ea. The serrated lock washers prevent the OEM plate from loosening up and moving around, which causes the "rattle" noises that plagues 350Z shifters. Sometimes the top plate will move far enough where you'll lose the reverse lock-out.

If the B&M service reps don't know what you're talking about, ask them to speak to their VP of Engineering to clarify.

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/e...-oem_stick.jpg

You referring to the plate on right in the picture? We did not use this with the B&M shifter, we just used the supplied blue plate.

Sounds like sound advice, Hack, I'll get some lock washers.

I wonder if that's what happened to Killer Bee, making him lose the reverser lockout?

I haven't heard his story, but if you install the shifter like this:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...outlockout.jpg

you'll lose the lockout. it needs to have the stock aluminum plate over the top of the blue anodized B&M plate in order for the lockout to work. If you do it like this:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...thloackout.jpg

your lockout will work.

-Phim

to avoid detroying your knob, try using a towel over the knob, then grab it with a clamp or a monkey wrench, rather than using channel locks. You'll exert much less force on the knob. Then you rely on the elliptical shape of the knob to get your traction for turning it. My knob got a few scuffs, but is not ruined:



http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3.../Shiftknob.jpg

-Phim

Now that you mention it a nice C clamp may very well be the best option to remove the knob. I'll have to try that.

Phim, did you use the spring at all or do you just need the aluminum bracket for the lock out? Thanks.

You need the spring too, otherwise it will sit too low, like you are pushing down on the shifter, trying to hit reverse.

Thanks to everyone for all the info in this thread. Installing mine tomorrow.

It's installed. It's definitely nice. I'm not sure if I filed enough material away to help with the reverse engagement. I am able to get into reverse but it's a little difficult at times. Maybe I will take a look at it again next weekend though I really don't want to... it was a pain in the ***.

I ended up destroying the stock shifter which sucks because I'm not too happy with the one I bought to replace it. With my gf holding vice grips on the shift lever I was able to turn the knob about 1.5 times with my bare hands before I couldn't do it anymore which was kind of interesting... I thought it'd be easy once I broke the lock. Ended up getting pissed and just took the vice grips to it and got the knob off.

I'm happy with the shifter, just not so happy with what I did to the stock knob and the feel of my replacement. I might swing by the dealership to see if I can order a stock knob.

Glad to hear another one happy with the shifter, my only two issues so far have been 2nd gear is hard to shift into than any other and I miss 5th sometimes because I do not have the lock out wall so I go over to far.

Yeah, the shifts definitely require a little more effort now, but the throws are considerably shorter and the feel is a lot better.

here is what mine looks like right now. I don't like it. I need to get something like the GTM knob (don't want to spend the $100 on it, though) or get another factory knob.

Yes.

Yes. However the top plate may move far enough to the right for the lock-out feature to not work. Hence the recommendation was to get serrated lock washers to prevent the top plate from moving around due to use.

That is about as good as I've seen it done. I've done this shifter in several 350Zs and saw Killer Bee's shifter installed, and frankly it is IMPOSSIBLE to get the knob off without at least some sort of minor marks on it. Even the picture posted with the knob in the clamp after the assembly was removed, left small indentations in the knob. On my 350Z I ended up just buying a new knob from Nissan.

Any idea how much a new knob will run?