RESET ECU alternative method
 

I founded this alternative to RESET ECU procedure. It is usable without stopwatches and much more easy to do!

1. Push start button twice to get - Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times - hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal.
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal.
5. Count to 10, depress pedal.
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. ECU reset is done!

Yay this is similar to the 350Z Reset...





DAN

Actually I think it is the same for most of the Nissan fleet :icon17:

Yes it is! But another method here is really PITA for me. 15 times tried on my Z, but with just one success.

With this procedure it is 1 from 1 :tiphat:

LoL Good lord... I'm just gonna:

1. Pop hood, skip counting
2. Pull off battery cover, skip counting
3. Loosen and remove Negative (-) Battery Terminal, skip counting
4. Wait 1 minute, without counting
5. Reverse steps 1-3, again, no counting...


:rofl2: :tup: for finding it out, but there is a simpler way...

I wanted to do without battery disconnection. Maybe I'm too lazy, or just don't want to miss another car settings.

Well just let me ask you this, when you do it your way, does it take out all of your radio settings etc?? Cause if not, then this would prove effective...

You won't have to reset the windows or radio stations if you don't disconnect the battery.

And then.... reset all radio presets, reset clock, try and figure out Satellite radio (if so equipped), and watch the ECU go through a re-learn process.

After the last step, how do you get the Ignition to turn completely "Off" without starting the car? Typically when I am sitting in the car programming my radar detector with the Ignition in the "ON" position; I push the Ignition switch once and the car starts.

Should I push the Ignition button twice from the "On" position to prevent it from starting?

Thanks,

V.

Because you have NISMO, that means that your car is with manual gearbox I guess? Try not to depress clutch or brake. Had same problem with new car, that accidentally started engine.
To push button once from on position should turn it off with released clutch/brake. Twice will switch it to Acc position.

Hope, that iw will help! And really nice car :tiphat:

Thanks Maila87! I will give that a try once I add my exhaust!! Nice stable BTW!

Hope, that will work for you! :tiphat:

Thanks! Especially Skoda Fabia was awesome - 5 seat combi as big as my current Z. With 3 big guys, one tiny girl and me it was necessary to drive over 3000 rpm to keep speed in big uphills. Sometimes 4000 RPM was not enough :icon18:

If you haven't done any mods to the engine is it still worth it to reset the ECU?

Thanks! :tup:

:iagree::iagree::iagree:but also pushing down the brake pedal and horn while the battery is disconnected you can instantly put the neg terminal back on no waiting.

Man! I tried this, I wanna say 6-7 times and horribly failed. I never got the flashing light. Maybe cause mine is '09. Hey i dont know. Ill have to do the battery method I guess.

I just tried this on my 2009 and it worked. I had to attempt this twice but got it on the second time. I would recommend taking a laptop out to the car so that you can go over the procedure, but more importantly to bring up clock so that you can see when the seconds go by.

do you only know that you did the reset correctly by seeing the SES light blinking? and what is the SES light?

Service Engine Soon. Yellow "check engine light"

thank you:tiphat:

if you have a cable from uprev use the cipher program and clear it.

Might be a dumb question, but which pedal am I pressing? I have 3 :-)

The throttle! :)

Honestly. It was easy. Got it when first try. Just wondering how long to ecu to remember the mods?

I got intake. Test pipe and CBE. Also oil cooler. But I think oil cooler was nothing to do with this reset. I'm also planning to install crank pulley. Do I need to reset again after install of pulley? Thanks!

To be honest, I didn't reset after any of the above installs (didn't install a pulley). With 5-7 hard pulls at the lights, the computer should learn sufficiently enough.

SES indicator lamps are easily turned off with a $39 OBDII code reader. Takes all of 5 seconds.

One more question. How to know if u got the ecu correctly? Any sign or setting to know?

You'll see the light blink per the instructions. The speed of the blinking will change. Try it and you'll see.

Sorry to hijack this thread but what's the reason behind resetting the ECU?
Thanks.

To reset the CPU without disconnecting the battery terminals; like if you get a SES light from having Hi FloW Cats installed or test pipes, or you just installed some bolt on mods and are OCD about the computer doing a relearn asap. ;) lol

Yes, I realize I'm bumping an ancient thread but I didn't want to start a new one.

A couple days ago I was accelerating from a stop and punched it a little, as I often do, and the tires lost traction on bumpy pavement. Traction control stepped in to help and then snap! I was placed in limp mode and couldn't get over 10 MPH. After waving traffic by me, I pulled over and restarted the car. It drove fine but the SES light remained lit.

Using a bluetooth OBD2 port reader and Torque on my Android, I found out it was error P0605: ECU Error.

I tried the other ECU reset method but couldn't clear the SES light. This alternative method quoted above, however, worked on my 2013. Not sure if there's any change to this method on '13s - that doesn't seem likely.

Here's my real question: After clearing the code, I took my Z for a spin to get traction control to step in and see if the error would return. It didn't. However, once I pulled in my garage and turned the car off, I decided to turn the ignition to 'ON' again. After a few seconds, the SES light began to flash slowly, just as when I was attempting to clear it before. Is this typical? I started the engine again and no SES light, so it would seem it is cleared, just not sure why it started flashing in the 'ON' position. Is that just the typical diagnostic mode, or is the P0605 code still resident somewhere?

Sounds like ur ECM (ECU) has shi'ite teh bed...Take it 2 the dealer for a new 1:confused:

All DTC indicate the ECM is malfunctioning....

Well, it doesn't really seem to have failed, though. I successfully cleared the code and have been driving without issue for a week, with no traction control issues and normal performance; the SES light hasn't returned.

I'm confused by your last statement - diagnostic trouble codes can mean just about any component is malfunctioning and there are specific codes for ECU issues.

I'll have to check again in the morning, but I had noticed that after clearing the SES light, driving more, turning the car off, then turning ignition to 'ON' (not starting the engine) the SES light began it's slow blink without the 5 gas pedal presses as if it was entering diagnostic mode.


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LOL! If u'r SES lite is blink'N then that's diff than mine....Mine just stay on...;)
But, u're the SMART here...W00T ever u feel is fine is C00l w/me Bro (its ur Z n $$$$$)! :D

Really old thread. But thanks for the info! Bought my roadster brand new last year and it recently started to have a long delay before it accelerated after a cold start. Then I read about resetting the ECU.