Questions! Differential swap?
 

Hey guys,

I have been doing a lot of reading and I still have a few questions still.

I have an 09 touring base automatic with an open diff. I am getting ready to do an LSD and gear swap.

If I go with the Quaife LSD is there anything I am going to need other then the new LSD? axle stubs or anything?

Also swapping to a shorter final gear with an automatic, is 4.08 too low or would you guys recommend something closer to 3.89?

I have also read issues with cruise control and rev-match are there any fixes for these?

Thanks
Keith

Thanks for the link!

It answered a bunch of questions I had!

Now I know a lot of people knock the stock LSD, but for daily driving and the occasional young dumb moments when I want to get from 0-60 real quick is the stock LSD going to work for me or should I save and get an after market LSD?

I do not plan on tracking or "racing" my car. I will run it a few times but not very often. My problem now is I have a difficult time keeping the back end down when I launch.

Thanks
Keith

Swapping out open dif on AT to VLSD
 

I have a 2009 base 370z open differential. I swapped out the open diff with the VLSD from an MT model. The gear ratio on AT is 3.3 the MT is 3.6. There is no issues swapping out. No extra parts were needed. I did gain some acceleration. 1st gear is a bit shorter and tacks about 100rpms more to maintain 60mph. The SRM and Cruse were unaffected.

get the 3.692 from the 6mt or the 3.916 from the frontier...4.08 is overkill IMO unless you're tracking/drag racing.

I daily over 70 miles when I work, and I tend to have a heavy foot. 4.08 for me would be pointless...

Honestly, it depends on what you want out of the driving experience.

I dont quite drive 70 miles to work, I imagine 4.08s that far would be a little much. but i do drive like 15 miles and honestly its not too terrible. Keep in mine your revs are going to be higher. At 75 mph Im at about 3300 rpms. But I do realize the car is no longer a long distance car.

If your commute is <20 miles, then I say sure, go for it.

I've got my mind set on the 3.916's at the moment...4.08 makes it too much of a gas guzzler for me to entertain that idea. 3.692 is nice, but I'm starting to get tired of it.

Go with 3.9 gears for the 7at, you won't regret it. I did the same swap with my g sedan and love it. It will run at about 2800 rpm at 75mph , and gives you good pickup even in 7th gear at cruising speeds.

Base 3 3 to sport 3 6 swap
 

I have the Automatic 3.3 non V LSD and want to swap the diff from a sport 6 sp manual. Do I need the stub axles or anything else in addition to the whole diff?

I've got a stick 2012 370z convertabile base model. So I've got an open diff but my goal is to daily the car but be able to learn how to "drift", parking lot type stuff, which diff would you recommend? I've very new to the gear ratios and whether I'd need to swap the pukin or not. Your post helped a lot! thank you!

Foufdog,

I would put in a 3.69 VLSD in it. I bought a complete one from a wrecked 2016 MT from fleabay and bolted it in.

Thats what I did and it is perfect.

Let me add that my stock VLSD has about 200 full on drag radial tire burnouts on it at the track. If you keep the diff grease clean, and do not overheat the viscous coupler, it will last a long time.

If you plan to run it hard in situation where it gets hot and you cannot keep it cool, think hard about what type of diff you plan to buy.

Keep the pumpkin. You only need to add an LSD into the diff and that's it.
I had the same situation as you did, although I already had the sport VLSD in the car, which is nearly identical to having an open diff.

After browsing through all the options online and going through all diffs available, I decided that OS Giken is probably the best diff out there, although a bit pricey, offers best performance with minimal hassle about maintaining it.

The job included removing exhaust, rear sway bar, strut brace, and unbolting the whole differential. After that's off, you pull out the axles, diff LSD (or the open diff within the housing) and you have to remove the gears from the ring (final) gear and bolt it onto the LSD. Then you reassemble everything and that's basically it.

I didn't change the ratios and I kept the factory final drive, as I think it's just fine, the car works well, I like that on highway I can cruise at 80mph at 3000rpm in 6th. Other gears are fine, although a slight bit long.

A whole another option is to swap the whole pumpkin and diff within, with a different one including LSD, but I really urge you to NOT pursue the factory VLSD option as it's ****. Go for the mechanical (clutch plate) LSD.

Yep, useless to go OEM VLSD, especially if his purpose is parking lot “drift”, basically power oversteering.