I have a 370Z TT 7AT, but not here in my hand. He's on the port of PE/Brazil, and I get he on this month. He's tuned by AAM Competition.
I'm anxious to take this car.
(Sorry my bad english).
Some informations of the car:

Nissan 370Z, 7AT, 2011, Twin Turbo, 450whp.

Vídeo:

OP you have a 2011 Nismo and your asking about a Auto trans?..i say roll the dice like everyone else and SC it..haha

Whatever.

70K is nothing. That's absurd. Why would you presume that 70K on the trans means it was going to be more prone to fail.

Does that mean if you have 25K on the car, expect it to fail in the next 3-5 years? That's not an explantion anymore than "driver error". Tell me exactly what failed and why and what I can do to prevent it, otherwise it's a dice roll.

Until I hear a clear explanation of why some have failed and what can be done to prevent it it's a crap shoot.

We have two confirmed failures -- where they are in the world is irrelevant.

Is it gauranteed the trans will fail -- no, of course not. Is the chance greater than zero -- yep, sure seems to be the case.

If GTM or Stillen or any other professional shop has a clear answer on why the trans's on these cars probably failed and what can be done to greatly minimize the chance, I'll be happy.

So far, I haven't heard anything except that apparently some people are getting rebuilt transmissions.

I'll give you a related example:

The 2ZZ engine (Celica GT-S, Lotus) is known to break ring lands due to overpower at about 300 crank 250 whp. Do they all break? No. Do some break at lower power? Yes. Is it always somewhere in that 250 whp ball park when a ring land fails? pretty much, yes. Thus, through trial and error (and a few broken motors) a "safe" approximate max power on the stock pistons was determined.

You are still taking a chance, of course, but knowing the approximate physical limits and how to get around them (i.e., use forged pistons) meant people could proceed with more confidence that their motor would hold up over time.

The limits and how to get around them for boosted 7AT's remains UN-FVCKING-KNOWN . All we know is that at least two have failed.

Until we hear what failed and why, what the approximate safe limits are and how to either minimize or eliminate the chance of failure, it remains entirely unknown.

Saying "driver error" tells me nothing. That just means the trans is a time bomb and you are one bad day away from a big problem.

Saying it was due to the clutch bands failing, so the shift speed needs to be increased to prevent the extra wear, or the trans has to rebuilt with new clutch bands that are stronger -- THAT tells me something useful. Was it due to the fluid overheating and thus failing to provide sufficient lubrication -- that can probably be fixed with a stouter trans cooler. I dunno -- beats me. No one has said yet.

Anyway, until someone gives me a clear answer like that, I'd say it's a crap shoot.

Everyone else can do what they want with their car -- but don't pretend that it's incredibly unlikely anything will fail -- clearly that's not the case.

What did you say -- 15 people have boosted 7AT's? Okay 2/15 is still a failure rate of 13% 20 people? 2/20 = 10% failure rate.

Feeling luckier yet?

Show me 100 sucess stories (failure rate of 2%) and I'll feel a little better.

Want to really make me confident my trans won't be a time bomb? Then show me people racing it at the track. Show me people beating the hell out of it without breaking something -- why have all that power if you can't use it? Show me people fidinding the limits and then figuring out how to get around them. Not this "driver error" horsesh!t explanation.

:drama:

Hang on... why is the OP asking this question. He has a 6-speed Nismo... :confused:

Oh...

Next thread: Boosted a 7AT on Impulse, Worried about Trans :icon17:

I'm asking the pros here before I decide to trade it in and boost haha.

Or just trolling....:stirthepot:

I don't even know what that means

As one who has previously boosted a NA car and gone through all the experimentation, excitement, sucess, and failures, let me share with you one piece of advice:

Don't do anything to your car that could break something you can't afford to repair.

In other words, if you don't have the money to rebuild a blown engine/trans, why are you spending the cash to boost it?

It's less of a gamble boosting a factory FI motor/trans, as they are already built stout enough to handle the extra stress of FI, and simply retuning/increasing the boost a bit is less likely to cause a problem.

Anyway, maybe in reality it's only a 1% chance anything will fail -- but unless you have the cash to cover it, why take the chance?

After all, this is why we have warranties and insurance -- to protect against the slim chance something goes wrong during normal driving. Unfortunately, if something goes boom from an aftermarket FI set up, fixing it is your problem (Note: Possible exception: Stillen...)

Anyway, if you have the money to burn -- by all means, go for it. Worst case scenario, something breaks, you'll get it repaired.

First thing you have said I agree with. Bottom line is, if you boost, something will break. The new power will find a weak link and expose it. Not just on the 7AT but on any car. We are basically doubling the HP of the car and it wasnt designed to handle double.

This isnt unique to the 370 as my brother has the new camaro SS auto and is facing simlar iisues if he decides to boost.

Its always a risk to boost. Make your own decision.

+1. My general rule with FI is take whatever budget you think you are going to spend, and triple it. Stuff breaks and goes wrong all the time.

factory stock vs mods
 

A production model sports car has been engineered to last 100k+ miles

most attempts to "up the ante" come at the cost of reduced reliabilty

period

:happydance::ughdance::happydance::bowrofl: