The new Castrol Edge has di-ester boosters in it.

Mobil1 Ester

Plus, why pay some one, for something, you can do!

The Amsoil EA012 oil filter should be considered. The filter mesh design is the better current design.

Perhaps I shouldn't trust myself considering I've already lost one bolt, lol. I swear the damn thing just f*cking vanished.

I was going to go with Motul, but results from some oil analysis samples done on the some of the 350's on my350z.com board showed very poor results.

Subsequent switch to another brand of oil saw much better results. This was on an engine with >10k mi also so it's not attributed to break in wear.

I believe the BITOG forums show the same. Yes its super Ester oil but it doesn't seem to protect well.

ok i never change oil on any of my cars, what type of Jacks/ramps do you guys use?

what tools do i need. Im thinking if i can change the oil on a car on ramps maybe i can install my own exhaust

I went to Nissan to get my first oil change a month or so ago.
They tried to charge me a little under $200 bucks to have it done.
I laughed and walked out the door without uttering another word.
Changing your own oil FTW.

Same basic block, but very different cylinder heads on the VQ35's in the 350's, and the VQ37VHR that's in the G37 and 370Z. I tried to avoid reading too much into 350 results, and focus on VQ37VHR results.

I did my first change on a set of Rhino Ramps. Get the bigger version of the two they offer (you don't need the extra weight capacity, but the extra width is nice for our fatass tires). Get a pair of short sections of 2x8 board while you're at if you have the Sport Package - you need it to clear the spoilers over the ramps (set the 2x8 in front of the ramps on the ground as a pre-ramp).

I was a little concerned that being at an angle on the Rhino Ramps would mean not getting a complete drain, but it seems to have worked out ok. I got 5.25 quarts of refill, which is right in line with what I'd expect. Now that I know where everything is, I think I might try to find a shallow pan solution that can slide under the car without jacking, and do it level on the ground next time.

Are you able to actually slide underneath the car to reach the drain plug and filter without elevating the car at all? You must be slim n' trim! There's no way I could get under there without jacking it up.

I can't get my body under it, but I can reach my arm in far enough to remove all the bolts for the undercover you remove to access the filter and drain plug. The last time I dropped something into that pan through those @%^#$% holes in the top, I removed the the undercover like that, and even managed to squeeze my head under the bumper to look around a little. I think if I had a shallow pan of sufficient capacity I could do the oil change without raising the car.

What about installing my own exhaust what would i need tool wise for that?

Jackstands and a good set of wrenches (preferable Gearwrenches). And a bunch of this stuff:

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/t...ghtyputty2.jpg

(Just kidding on the Mighty Putty)

Technically semtex is correct, the tools for a bolt-in exhaust are pretty minimal. Just have a good metric wrench set and some jacks and jackstands and you're good to go (our stock exhaust bolts are all 14mm, as are the ones on the Stillen cat-back IIRC). However, there can be fitment issues, especially if you're mixing vendors apparently. You might want to at least find a friend who's somewhat familiar with this sort of thing to help you if you're asking the question above. Oh and pick up a can of anti-seize thread lube to use on the bolts too (every auto parts store has it, it's a jar of thick metallic silver-colored paste with a brush inside the cap).

If you really want to make installing an exhaust easy use a lift. But you need to have access to one. Buddying up to a local shop goes a loooooong way for projects like that.