I ordered the "MAG-1", which is M12x1.25 thread. Sounds like the right one to me, haven't received/installed it yet.

Yeah, where the hell is Semtex when you need him? Out making videos? ;)

I believe it is the M12 x P1.25, but if Semtex has traded them out it would be good to know his thoughts. And more importantly what color he ordered?!

M12 x P1.25

I responded a couple of posts prior, Mr. Impatient! ;)

Re. color, you don't get to choose. Each size has its own color -- I think that's so they can tell them apart. So if you order the size for Nissans (M12 x P1.25), you get red.

Knowledge = rep points! :tup:

I'm not feeling the love dude...:icon18:

You've ordered the correct one. I installed mine on Saturday and it fits perfectly.

5W30 is recommended, unfortunately the dealership I went to get my first change didn't completely tighten something and I found an oil puddle under my car, drove it back to the dealership and they changed it again, this time without any leaks.

Either they didn't replace the crush washer or they really screwed up torquing the drain plug.

im planing on taking it to the dealer and getting conventional oil and after 3000 miles or so ill do an oil change and switch it to motul.

What about oil filter? What do you guys recommend?

I was going to go with Purolator PureOne for the filter but I've read somewhere that although OEM might have worse filter material, its spec'd as the engine was designed for (maintaing a certain level of oil pressure mainly). So you might want to go with OEM for now until there's more research done.

I know for Mobil1 some people will go with a different filter than what Mobil lists because of bigger/better filter and materials but the specs aren't in line with the original design. I haven't come across a filter which matches OEM specs with better filter media but if anyone on this board knows or is more knowledgeable on the subject, please chime in.

Or they didn't properly tighten the oil filter. That'd cause a leak as well.

I put a K&N on. The part number is HP1008, should you choose to go with K&N as well. Mobil1 filters are also good. In fact, their internals are pretty much identical to K&N. The only real difference between them is that the outside of the K&Ns have an integrated 'nut' on the end that allows you to use a normal wrench for installation and removal instead of an oil filter wrench. Anyway, if you go with Mobil1, then you want part number M1-108.

Possible, but it would have to be very loose or they didn't lube the O-ring.

True. Either way, this is why I do my own oil changes. With the 370, another thing to worry about is the fact that they have to remove the undertray to do an oil change. My specific concern is that they might get lazy and not put all 21 bolts back into place afterwards. It is a PITA with 21 bolts, after all, and I can see the temptation for someone to cut corners and leave a few of them off, especially when it's not their car, know what I mean?

Hopefully the filter isn't what's maintaining the correct oil pressure for the engine. All good filters have bypass valves in case they get clogged, and our oil pump has a regulator to prevent overpressure.

Yeah It was always in the back of my mind, just never thought it would happen to me. I usually get down and dirty with my vehicles but this time I decided to cut some corners and do the free oil change

It's not 21, It's 16 bolts and 3 snaps :p, there's 6x 10mm with phillips heads along the front, 3 of the same down each side, 4 slightly different ones (no phillips, but still 10mm) along the back, and then 3 snaps in a row through the middle. I've learned it by heart now, I think I've taken that thing off like 8 times already. Last time I didn't even jack the car up, I just laid down on the floor by the front bumper, reached under, and did it blind by feel. :)

Okay fine, it's 19 things that might not get put back right instead of 21. It's still enough of a PITA to make me worry that some service tech might get lazy and not bother with putting them all back right. :p

It would be interesting to pull the oil drain plug and determine whether it has been oversized? :stirthepot:

Oh and back on topic, after doing lots of reading on my own (Googling for hours, hitting all kinds of G37 threads and oil tech threads all over the net), I pretty much came to the same conclusion as semtex for my post-breakin oil setup: Motul 300V + K&N HP-1008. Motul was the best-quality/reputation synthetic oil I found that was definitely Ester based, and most of the oil filter data out there pretty much adds up to "Mobil1 and K&N have the same guts and they're the best commercial spin-on option available if you're willing to pay for them".

I'm still kinda undecided on which weight of Motul, but probably 5W30 given that we don't really get below-freezing weather here (well, once a year we get it for a few days by a few degrees, but not really).

Here's some other random oil stuff from all my Googling:

FilterMag - A reusable plastic half-shell that sticks to the outside of your oil filter, has a bunch of Neodymium magnets on it to trap ferrous particles as the oil comes into the filter (before the filter element). I figure worst case it keeps the big metal chunks from clogging the filter so much, but they claim it also traps a lot of tiny abrasive metal particles that filters will pass (in the single-digits of microns and below). The 250-series size fits our oil filters. I went with the RA250. I don't really understand what's up with the HP250 - it costs more and has less total magnet strength, and is considered the High Performance version. Perhaps it's just that the plastic shell is tougher or something.

And if you guys really want to get crazy, this is the kind of thing I was think of the other day in that other thread (re: pre-oilers):

AccuSump - With the right set of options and so-on, this acts as both a pre-oiler and an extra pressure sump. You give it power before cranking your cold engine, and it pre-loads pressurized oil up into the engine to prevent cold-start wear, and refills itself from your oil pump once pressure is up. Then when you're driving, if there's any sudden loss of oil pressure, a pressure-sensitive valve automatically opens and maintains pressure using the sump for a few seconds until your oil pump recovers (and then refills itself for the next hit). This happens if you corner or accel hard enough that the oil in the oilpan goes up the side wall and leaves the oil pump pickup tube sucking dry.

I'm not sure if I'm willing to go that far, but it's pretty cool stuff.

The new Castrol Edge has di-ester boosters in it.

Mobil1 Ester

Plus, why pay some one, for something, you can do!

The Amsoil EA012 oil filter should be considered. The filter mesh design is the better current design.

Perhaps I shouldn't trust myself considering I've already lost one bolt, lol. I swear the damn thing just f*cking vanished.

I was going to go with Motul, but results from some oil analysis samples done on the some of the 350's on my350z.com board showed very poor results.

Subsequent switch to another brand of oil saw much better results. This was on an engine with >10k mi also so it's not attributed to break in wear.

I believe the BITOG forums show the same. Yes its super Ester oil but it doesn't seem to protect well.

ok i never change oil on any of my cars, what type of Jacks/ramps do you guys use?

what tools do i need. Im thinking if i can change the oil on a car on ramps maybe i can install my own exhaust

I went to Nissan to get my first oil change a month or so ago.
They tried to charge me a little under $200 bucks to have it done.
I laughed and walked out the door without uttering another word.
Changing your own oil FTW.

Same basic block, but very different cylinder heads on the VQ35's in the 350's, and the VQ37VHR that's in the G37 and 370Z. I tried to avoid reading too much into 350 results, and focus on VQ37VHR results.

I did my first change on a set of Rhino Ramps. Get the bigger version of the two they offer (you don't need the extra weight capacity, but the extra width is nice for our fatass tires). Get a pair of short sections of 2x8 board while you're at if you have the Sport Package - you need it to clear the spoilers over the ramps (set the 2x8 in front of the ramps on the ground as a pre-ramp).

I was a little concerned that being at an angle on the Rhino Ramps would mean not getting a complete drain, but it seems to have worked out ok. I got 5.25 quarts of refill, which is right in line with what I'd expect. Now that I know where everything is, I think I might try to find a shallow pan solution that can slide under the car without jacking, and do it level on the ground next time.

Are you able to actually slide underneath the car to reach the drain plug and filter without elevating the car at all? You must be slim n' trim! There's no way I could get under there without jacking it up.

I can't get my body under it, but I can reach my arm in far enough to remove all the bolts for the undercover you remove to access the filter and drain plug. The last time I dropped something into that pan through those @%^#$% holes in the top, I removed the the undercover like that, and even managed to squeeze my head under the bumper to look around a little. I think if I had a shallow pan of sufficient capacity I could do the oil change without raising the car.

What about installing my own exhaust what would i need tool wise for that?

Jackstands and a good set of wrenches (preferable Gearwrenches). And a bunch of this stuff:

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/t...ghtyputty2.jpg

(Just kidding on the Mighty Putty)

Technically semtex is correct, the tools for a bolt-in exhaust are pretty minimal. Just have a good metric wrench set and some jacks and jackstands and you're good to go (our stock exhaust bolts are all 14mm, as are the ones on the Stillen cat-back IIRC). However, there can be fitment issues, especially if you're mixing vendors apparently. You might want to at least find a friend who's somewhat familiar with this sort of thing to help you if you're asking the question above. Oh and pick up a can of anti-seize thread lube to use on the bolts too (every auto parts store has it, it's a jar of thick metallic silver-colored paste with a brush inside the cap).

If you really want to make installing an exhaust easy use a lift. But you need to have access to one. Buddying up to a local shop goes a loooooong way for projects like that.

sadly i have no friends with a shop and i am not very trusting of shops in general wich is why i rather attempt it my self.

exhaust install is very easy. You can't really screw up as long as you make sure that everything lines up, is torqued down, and the rubber hangers are fitted correctly. Once u see the thing under the car, u'll understand it.

ok back on topic.

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...ester-oil.html

Today,just checked with my Agent,they said never heard of the ester oil before,i bought Shell Helix Ultra[100% syn] & decided to use it when the car is fully run in.