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thanks guys :D
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Simota, did you ever get around to resolving your power issue? Most of are dealing with loss of power (some think it's throttle delay), but your problem seems to be a bit more abrupt and severe. Does it idle rough? How does it rev? Does it feel heavy?
I finally did some more reading, so I'm assuming nothing was done in the end? |
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in the end bro nothing.... i did nothing to resolve the issue.... i had my friends test out my car with there scanners and then i scanned it with the scanguage II and i ran a/f ratio tests..... i did multiple WOT runs yesterday and went up to 80 mph no lagging no sputtering what so ever... a/f ratio was consistant during the 8 trials of WOT.... they also told me my sparks were fine? :tup: my idle is normal really smooth too :D it doesnt feel heavy feels actually like how it felt when i first got it and floored it.... in the end i can only think of 2 reasons why my car went limp mode that day.... one my car sat for month or more and it freaked out while i was using it two... i had the ducting for my intakes in a spiral i literally wrapped it around my crush bar in the front so very little air was going in my intakes since our cars are so well sealed in the bay it experience massive heat soak cuz my intakes are sri and no heat shields and then it went limp mode because it felt the engine was in danger... when i pulled over right after that was one of the first things i removed and discarded... i believe the dealership made all that crap up just so they could milk me they probably thought i was a tool and wouldnt try and figure it out myself..... thanks to all my friends and people that helped me through this forum :tup: |
I guess the dealer was so jealous of your ride they wanted a piece of the action. Haters.
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Pretty good... should be getting the stock fuel/temp faceplate back with a custom face. It'll be a permanent DIY mod that involves sanding down the face to remove the color, but it's the most economic solution at the moment.
Good to hear your car is doing fine. That's pretty sad they abused your car in the process when nothing was really wrong, but at least your car can cope with it. So you still had plenty of power after extended driving? Mine starts losing power after driving for awhile (at least 15-20min of driving). I start bogging 1st gear more often, and it just won't budge once I gave it more gas. However, it didn't feel like limp mode either. :confused: |
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Do you have a similar intake setup as Sim ??? |
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Hello , in regards to this issue,
I'm experiencing an issue like this, When I accelerate over 3500, rpm power cuts out, totally to the engine, unail the rvs are below 3000 rpm s,then it will run again.freaked me out to !! In traffic. I reset or have the car in sport mode it performs fine. At times it will come out of sport mode without activating the switch ! WTF !! I was wondering what sensory changed Kaine z34 Or does any one have any insight Lanster |
Hello,
I'm experiencing power loss, when accelerating, over 3500 rpm , Has anyone had this problem , ambient air temp is not an issue,this is also happening when the car is not in sport mode, when in sport mode it's fine, performs properly |
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In the meantime, you might try cleaning the MAFs if you haven't done so recently. Very easy job - requires a screwdriver, some MAF cleaner, and about 15 minutes. Several threads on this site with instructions. Probably not your problem but, if it's been 9-10 years since they were clean, it needs to be done. |
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Probably not related, but I'll throw it into the hat.
Many years ago, I replace the stock air intakes with K&N Typhoons. I screwed up the install. I chipped off a very small piece of rubber on one of the vacuum hoses, which traveled up and lodged in the throttle body(?). Took it 2 weeks to materialize, but I was driving down the road when everything died. Would barely hold idle, but wouldn't do much more than that. That's my only suggestion. Good luck. |
Yikes! That's a bit of a worst case scenario there :eekdance: Definitely possible although there are a lot of other options that are probably more likely to have occurred.
Cleaning the MAFs is a good opportunity to go ahead and clean the TBs also (I do both about every 20-25K miles - overkill but too cheap and easy not to do). Taking them off for cleaning (super easy) and a quick inspection would definitely rule out something getting stuck in the butterfly valve. |
Greets Simota1
I'm glad the issue seems to have resolved itself for you. I've experienced the same thing with my Z roadster. Scared the poop outta me the first time. lol It was a low fuel hard acceleration on an highway exit type thing. I was right at the apex in 3rd running close to 4500 rpm and when I stomped on it to shoot though the apex .... nuthing, nada, zilch. I hit the clutch and the engine died. So I released the clutch again and the engine fired but still no throttle response. By then I was on level roadway and it stumbled and finally caught. The low fuel light wasn't on before I hit the exit but it came on while I was pulling G's on the ramp then went out again on the level roadway. I've also had my Z go into "limp mode" when it is first fired up usually on a cool morning. I live out in a rural area, so once I leave the small village proper the max speed changes from 40k to 90k and my next stop sign is 8 k away. The first time it happened I brought it up to 90k and thought maybe it needed to warmup. Nope, it seemed like it would only accept input from the peddle for the first few millimeters. Anything after that it would not respond. Once I reached the stop sign I shut the car off, then back on. It ran normally after that. It has only done this twice and the highway exit thing once. I have an OBD2 transmitter and have a few apps on my phone that allow me to check a host of things and to modify some of the settings. I like one called "car scanner". There are several choices carbit, torque, in car doc, car repair, and most likely dozens of others. Most have a free demo that allows you to see most things and some even allow you to do modifications. |
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