Did you try shutting it down and starting it back up? I might have had a similar occurance. I'm still not sure if it went to limp mode or just a glitch. It happened before I knew anything about issues with oil temp with the Z.

I was driving home in rush hour traffic. As soon as I got off the parkway, I stopped at a stop sign near the exit ramp. Revved to around 3,500 rpm and the engine just cuts off power. I pulled over to a side street. At this point the engine didn't sound healthy at all, so I shut her off. Waited about 5 minutes and everything was back to normal like nothing happened. The dealer pulled a code, but I don't remember what it was. All the signs pointed to limp mode, so I'm guessing that was the problem.

Come to think of it, that was the reason I joined the forum.

my friend at the dealer said it probably did go into limp mode because it was trying to protect itself..... they should have a light that warns you that its in limp mode the whole time it was doing that weird thing the cel was off and no other warning lights was flashing only the tpms sensor because i dont have mine on the car anymore....

Did you happen to check the oil level? I hate to be the burden of bad news. I had the same scenario and when I pulled over the car was low 3.5 quarts of oil and it only had 2500 miles on it. It's now having the short block replaced and that’s after they changed the timing sprockets and chains.
Good luck,
Tom

Nissan does a piss poor job with their warning lights. My Audi A4s used to pop a warning light even if it was just a turn signal bulb going out. In the Z, you can be completely out of oil and the warning light won't be on.

Sounds like a fuel cut...cornering with a low tank at high speed?

Sounds like a fuel cut...cornering with a low tank at high speed?
He never mentioned that in his OP.

Yea that's crazy. By the time the oil light comes on it's too late for most cars. There has to be something better?

hey everyone i got really really bad news from nissan... it broke my heart but its my fault.... :( so basically everyone knows that my car has diy intakes with no heatshields.... heres what it lead to.... since i have headers on my car now it generates a good amount of heat..... even with the thermal wrap i noticed that the car has a crazy amount of heat in the bay.... so since i dont have heat shields my car was sucking in 180 degree air.... and since my car is running rich from all the performance mods done to it the hot air + richness in fuel lead my plugs to foul... so now about two of my plugs are fouled out... **** NOW i have to change all the damn plugs in my car.... which is hilarious because she only has like 7,500 on her... and get a G3 stillen intake or any intake with a heat shield i hate the fact that i was so f*cking cheap to buy an intake and now it costs more to fix it..... FML lesson learned never... i mean NEVER go cheap when it involves the engine.....:shakes head:

i forgot to add... since it was the intakes fault for not having heat sheilds and thats pretty much what lead my car to break..... its NOT covered under warranty.... FML again lol

Damn i'm sorry to hear that.... hope you get that fixed up soon bro. we all learn one way or another.

I've learned multiple times over that going cheap just costs more in the long run. Tried to go cheap with the oil cooler and had to get the expensive one later. Tried to go cheap getting a set of tires mounted only to have my rims mangled by a crap installer and had to pay again to get it done right. The list goes on and on. Just pay for the good stuff up front and you'll fare much better in the long run.

Typically cars run LEAN when you have full bolt-ons and no tune, not rich. Do you have an AF monitor? I bet you're lean, not rich. Rich would require a bad tune.

i just realized something.... i think the dealer here is a bullcraping me whats the typical ambient temperature of an intake? mine said it was sucking in 180 degrees... they said the factory spec is 10 degrees?!? is that even possible? and on the paper it says that i need injectors to accommodate the bolt ons but it also says im running rich so wouldnt that mean that mean by adding bigger injectors it would make my car even more rich? and is this true i qoute the paper..

"conclusion engine modifications resulting in uneven airflow causing a/f mixture to be out of specification
heat soak causing ecu to retard ignition timing, in order to prevent abnormal combustion/detontation.which in turn is leading to premature fouling of spark plugs"

they said number 3 spark plug is out but shes very smooth on idle not sputtering or shaking?!? man idk any input greatly appreciated

another thing if i was rich... wouldnt i smell the odor from the exhaust and it would put out black smoke? crap i know lean is very bad right like really really bad

not sure i can answer that for you.

but if you are worried about the heat, if you get a chance to pull off the header/TP get them ceramic coated and then wrapped.

If its HFC, just coat the outside and wrap that. Should help quite a bit.

i've learned never to trust the dealer, when my problem with the intake happened, they quoted me $1100 to fix it...and all i needed was new filters (because the first one got ripped by the plastic bag i sucked) ... take it somewhere else and get it checked. sorry to hear about ur car if what they said was true.

good luck

i got the ones that are ceramic coated.... :ugh2: