Zinc is a lubrication enhancer and prevents wear. All engines can benefit from it. Newer engines have parts that tend to optimize the way oil is used as a lubricant by having the part ride on a layer of oil without actually touching like your crank and bearings. With the old cam lobe lifters and lash pads the oil tends to be wiped off so additives such as ZDDP help protect the metal surfaces. Problem is the only one piece of correct info from the mechanic is that it is destructive to your catalytiic converters. It builds a coating on the platinum that prevents it from working effectively as a polution controling device. I will not affect the HP peformance of the cat which is environmentally frustrating but not performance affecting.

Honestly I'm sticking with Mobil 1.

I did tons of research and found out that Lamborghini, Ferrari, Porsche, Corvette put M1 on all their cars. A bunch of other performance cars too. I called the local dealerships and asked the service managers, they all said M1.

Redline is cool, but it's no better than M1. Redlines marketing team's done a good job of marketing their oil as premium oil, but auto manufacturers don't buy it.

If you talk to hardcore Redline believers, they're all going to swear by Redline no matter what. If someone already firmly believes in Redline, they will find flaws in M1 so they can prove that Redline is better. So i'm not here to convince anybody to switch to M1.

Redline is more expensive, but it is no better than M1. All the people I've talked to, they all said the same thing, you can't go wrong with M1.

I'm going to stick with M1. I can't argue with what auto manufacturers suggest.

Yeah, but the engineers for those manufacturer's have no clue about what oil to specify so they went with the lowest bidder.:rolleyes:

Lol - yes Mobil 1 is a good oil but putting it in Lambos, etc is a gigantic part of the marketing effort! Your example is the exact reason Mobil sells the oil to these guys at a hugely reduced cost because they make the profit from people buying it at retail prices because it's used in a Corvette....

Its as simple as this - change your oil and filter regularly with an approved oil and you've got 95% of your bases covered.... if you want to find out about the other 5% you need to research the chemical and physical properties as well as the conditions the oil is used in - not what car uses it..... that's not research that's being a consumer lead by advertisement....

Pure 1 oil filter IS missing the bypass valve, take one apart if you don't beleive it (it's a little themostatic spring I think).
Elevated ZDDC in RedLine oil does burn up (eventually) the cat; but it also provides the extra protection that later oils (1998'ish - present) do not so it's worth it to me...

I just changed my oil with:

http://i43.tinypic.com/krri9.jpg

I cannot find PureOne filter, staying with K&N HP for now.

Amazon.com: Purolator PL14610 PureONE Oil Filter, Pack of 1: Automotive

I've done 2 oil changes with Red Line and the PureONE filter :driving:

Other than price why wouldn't you put a "racing synthetic oil" in the Z. Granted its overkill but Motul makes an ester oil for race applications.

Since someone brought this thread back from the dead.....

I wish folks would do some research before posting incorrect information and starting internet rumor.

Purolator oil filters DO have a bypass valve as well as an anti drain back valve. They're one of the best oil filters for the money you can buy. Matter of fact, I don't know if you can even find an oil filter without a bypass valve anymore.

It's spring loaded steel and can be seen in the picture of a dissected PureOne filter below.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...0803-00146.jpg

Oil Filters



Please read it.

Oil filter analysis
 

Here is a link to a thread with a very detailed oil filter analysis including filtration efficiency and flow capability: The OFFICIAL Oil Filter Testing and Results Thread (4G63T/4B11T) - evolutionm.net

Very informative.

Entirely different platform

The only thing that is platform dependent in the thread is the Mitsubishi oil filter among the other major brands in the study. The entire study is in posts 1,2,3 in the thread. The results regarding filtering efficiency and flow capability in post 3 were not tied to any particular automobile engine. These were the ones that made this study especially interesting for selecting an oil filter for my z.

Oh man. I smell nothing but necro here.

I use to run Nissans ester oil but now I'm running Mobil 1 0w40 and I won't run anything else(maybe castrol 0w30 if I can't find M1 0w40)

Redline is good oil, but its expensive, M1 0w40 has all the same ratings as redline does and its cheaper.

My oil reports show m1 above 800 and redline above 1200 for zinc. To me that's like saying your cat will last only 33% longer if m1 is used. But since most cats last over ten years I could care less so far down the road.

What I do care about is m1 has almost no moly! Moly is the best protector of an engine period. M1 is 99 and RL is over 700! To me my bearings and vvel are more important than my cats. Also m1 is like water! I'd never use it again in a motor that runs hot and I'd never use it in a gtr with turbos. My WRX hated the m1 and the thin water would leak through the turbo seals. RL 5w40 stopped that from happening. RL FTW!

9300 miles was m1, the other 2 were RL 5w30. The reason for fuel in the last test was oil was changed without me warming the car up because I forgot.

PS!!! This was with a k&n filter! So people bitching about how they don't filter well can pound salt.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psd58a259d.jpg

My oil report says other wise!

Does it? Show reports then.

both redline and M1 0w40 meet the same european standards

it says it right on the box and on their websites, i could careless about a used oil analysis report, that doesn't mean anything if you change your oil every 3750 miles

if you like redline, thats great, i dont really care
no need to flame and be a fanboy because someone disagrees with the price associated with redline

EDIT: after looking at your posts it just proves what i said, you're running your oil much longer than you really should be and all i see from your reports is redline is overkill for the engine, its like running a 34row oil cooler on a N/A 370z that rarely sees track time

EDIT2:
looks like mobil1 0w40 meets many higher ratings that redline 5w30 european oil dont meet
again i got this from just a simple look on both manufactures websites

A UOA has a lot of good info in it regarding your motors wear and overall health no matter what your oil change interval is.

That's another great thing about a UOA. They tell you what interval is safe to run based on the breakdown of the oil. What are you basing your opinion on the appropriate OCI on?

Lol thought this was America with Japanese motors :tup:

So you believe everything you read from a manufactures stand point? I don't! Give me a new or old sample of both oils and ill let BSL tell the story. I'm not being a fanboy. I want my stuff protected no matter the cost!! And BSL tells me RL has the most moly, zinc, and phos which are your micro lube protectors. Period, end of story. I'm not flaming. You stated an opinion and I simple asked for fact. You can't provide and instead you jump down my throat. Calm down sport.

Lol how I'm I running my oil longer than I should be??!! If anything I need to go longer to cut down on cost! Didn't think 3,000 miles was long. O wait let me guess! You're so pissed off and wanna come at me you're incapable of reading correctly and think miles on unit is miles on oil?? Or you just can't type while upset and meant to say I'm going way to short on changes?

Either way i again will pay more for better protection. If your 0w40 euro oil meets moly, zinc, and phos then ill switch. If it doesn't than its not worth it to me. These motors run hot, they've had some issues with vvel, so I'm protecting my engine period. If RL numbers are higher than yours than I'm protecting my engine better than you are. Does it mean we both wont hit 100k? I have no idea but I'm not looking to find out. If you are, good luck :tup:

You have a 2013 Z. You shouldn't be anywhere near 100k miles.

I don't understand. So should I use the worst oil known to man till I get to 100k? Or should I use a good oil while on my way to 100k to make sure I make it and exceed over 100k? Just because you aren't close doesn't mean you relax on the way. Childhood obesity is on the greatest rise ever. They're fat, lazy, McDonalds eating turds. Should we not worry about them because a heart attack is 35 years off?

FYI The most important miles are the first on a motor. They don't regenerate and heal like our bodies.

Dino oil will protect as good as any synthetic but you just have to change it more often. How do I know? Millions and millions around the world run dino oil. If there was an issue with dino, it would be all over the internet. I do run synthetic myself btw and change it once a year regardless of mileage or age of the oil which is a deception if you think it goes bad after 6 months..

Millions of cars are not all the same! Russia still makes the same car made in the 60's. and no it doesn't protect as we'll or NASCAR and everyone else would run it. What do they care right? They rebuild the motor every race any how. Because it needs the protection for the few hours it runs. I'd run dino in a car that doesn't see redline. A Z is not that car!

I was just simply stating that you shouldn't be anywhere near 100k miles. Thought I read you were closer to that. If you are anywhere close to that there's something really wrong. Judging by every response you're just looking to argue. I'll bow out of this.

I like Turtles!

The DEFINITIVE oil thread - MyG37

/thread