Nice. Is this the GTM kit? Do you have to drop the diff to install this? I wouldn't think you would.

If it is the GTM kit I don't think the lines would work on mine being I have the Greddy exhaust in which the EVAP is in the location of where the diff cooler would have to go. I was thinking of putting a kit together which is cheaper using the exact parts in the GTM kit. I'll just have to make my own line length.

yeah GTM kit. You have to drop the diff IF you are using the pump portion - because you have to drill and tap a hole for the temperature sensor. Otherwise you wouldn't take it out - you would just take out the fill and drain plugs and replace them with hose fittings.

So you took the rear diff cover off to tap? Seems I've read articles on tapping the cover with It still in place being it's on the lower portion of the cover. Just be slow and patience and use grease on the bits to retain the shavings and flush it several times be sure all is clear. I know its easy to drop the diff and all, it just takes time but just wondering. But the more I think of it it would be best to drop it for I would want to file down everything.

Also I only see the temp sensor if you opt for the temp controller not the pump. Is that so?

I beg to differ on what you come up with ,
I got 2 diff blown from overheating 1 from my previous 350z and the one I had rebuilt by a professional known guys in Toronto.
and my OEM 370z had to come back on earlier this year.

so my next must have mod is gonna be a diff cooler for next year !

I am not TT or SC just NA power !

Just for talk sake what LSD were they?

the first one was the oem VLSD 3.5fd (350z) then I had it rebuilt with a 3.9
and blown again ealier this year .

Few months ago I installed back the 3.3OEM 370z diff *vlsd* untill next year when I will get the diff cooler.

but dont get me wrong the car gets beaten everytime I hit the track ,, so I can understand the need I have !

There's no doubt to me that the diff gets hot but do you think some of that is due to the oem not being up to the task. I know I've heard many times after the OEM VLSD heats up it doesn't hold much anyways. Just wondering when pushing the stock one beyond it's limit it gives up the ghost.

But there's also plenty of people here who track one there's a lot. Who knows?

The OEM LSD is a sealed unit within the pumpkin. You can cool all the fluid you want, but you are only cooling the fluid surrounding the LSD. The actual OEM LSD is still generating all the heat within a diff oil bath.

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory...mg/rdc_kit.jpg

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory.../rdc_cover.jpg

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory.../rdc_mount.jpg

Employs a unique addition to water-cooled. The water jacket is provided with cooling fins only differential cover, let them cool down in the differential case in the Defuoiru circulating cooling water. Cooling water tank installed in the spare tire space, circulation pump. It also makes it possible to operate ON / OFF switch activated by the installed indoors.

http://translate.google.com/translat...2F&sl=ja&tl=en

Cooling the viscous LSD helps to keep the inner silicone oil from deteriorating early. After 60k miles on a viscous LSD, the LSD tend to function mostly as an open diff. The loss in function occurs gradually, cooling prolonging the process, just as a water jacket around the engine cools an inner jacket of oil.

I would def suggest dropping the diff, or at least taking off the rear cover. I DO NOT SUGGEST drill and tapping a hole with the cover in place. Even when placing the temp sensor low (which is what I did, to measure the reservoir) there are a few baffles inside that can block the probe from mounting properly. You should drill and tap once you are able to view BOTH sides of the cover.

On my picture, you will see I have the temp probe (brass, at the lower right corner of cover) and the drain plug is now an AN stainless fitting, as well as the fill hole. My setup uses the temperature probe to tell the pump when to turn on and off, only circulating the oil once it reaches a "high" temperature, and not while just at normal operating temp.

That is one sexy set up, minus the goofy heineken keg in the boot. Lol. Obviously though, it is for time attack dedicated cars of course.

Yea I agree. Didn't know you could do the temp sensor without buying the temp control system. Sounds good.

I see what you're asking. Yeah I have a SPAL-PWM system that normally controls radiator fans . I use it with the included temp sensor to activate the pump.

Got yea

Unfortunately, this is just not correct. We were on the track this weekend, and the rear diff had a failure(I will elaborate in a bit). The car has a cat back exhaust and out prototype intakes. The tire/wheel combo is 18x10et20 on all 4. The tires are Toyo R888 255(f) and 295(r)s. Ambient temp in the 80s'.

I was able to run the first 20 minutes with out incident. The second session I started to push the car a little more, say 75% to the limit. The car started to get a little loose on turn in and hard braking. Once I pulled off the track you could smell the fluid. The diff was also making a ton of noise on light turning in the pits/garage area. You could feel the wheel try to lock up.

Basically, the oil got so hot it melted the drain plug magnet. When fluid gets that hot, it loses its viscosity. The OS Giken diff then did not know how to lock the plates correctly, and we had to end the race weekend. The bearings and races looked good, but the bearing in the final drive assy is binding from excessive heat.

We are in the process of making a kit, but I would encourage anyone who is planning on tracking the car....get a cooler solution ASAP.