Actually I didn't turn on my synchro rev match as I usually never use it. This would have actually been one of the few times it would have been useful to do so. Next time I will turn it on =)

I just came back from Streets of Willow Track event last week and went WITHOUT an oil cooler. However, it was very cold up there, in the morning, temperatures would be around 24 degrees and when it warmed up in the day, 44 degrees to 50 degrees. Maybe it was the cold weather that I didn't run into limp mode even after pushing the car near redline. I was in the beginner group and the first session was all about following behind the instructor to learn the lines and stuff. Rest of the sessions (there were 6 total sessions that day), I ran almost but not really at full 100% capacity, but I say around 85%. The first five sessions, I shifted constantly at 5k to 6k rpms. In the last session, I decided to go all-out and just redlined it. Temps got never higher than little over 260, but never did I run into a limp mode. Shouldn't be a too much problem doing canyon runs in GMR...this was my experience with the oil temps.

It's not the runs up to redline but sustained high RPM that becomes a problem. If you're downshifting hard into a turn and take the turn at 5500rpm, then run to redline through the gears, you'll overheat in any ambient temp. So yes, a canyon run can easily skyrocket oil temps if you're maintaining high RPM. If you're having problems though, there are a couple simple steps that can keep you driving (at a slower pace). 1) slow down (ie use lower revs...obvious, I know), and 2) turn on the AC...in the Z, a secondary radiator fan comes on with the compressor and actually cools the engine oil by about 10-15F.

At 280F you get limited to 5000 rpm, you still have full power beneath 5000 rpm. Stage 2 limp mode kicks in at 300F and severely limits power and limits RPM to around 3500.

Purple Ice by Royal Purple, reduces engine temps by 50 degrees or 10%. Also gain 8 dyno proven hp from swapping the engine, rear diff and tranny fluids. Give it a try. :tup::driving:

Are you a Royal Purple salesman or what? :roflpuke2:

There are several brands that claim to lower engine temperatures, if you're lucky you'll get 5 degrees, not 50.

The oil cooler reduces temps 40+ degrees so do I get any HP? :excited: I wish.

Royal Purple shears relatively fast compared to other premium oils. The longer you run it, the thinner it shears down. The more it shears down, the less it protects, the more friction you have. With a more stable oil, what you are noticing won't be nearly as apparent.

Not arguing here, but why is Royal Purple 'expensive' then? If it does this, I do not understand the hype about it. Is it just a percieved believe the 'brand' is better than most? I ruled our RP a while back because of the above dynamic and would get Mobil 1 over RP.

Am I missing something?

They spend millions on advertising to the race/hot rod crowd. For race car engines they are going to change the oil after every event so long term viscosity break down isn't a big concern. It is a huge concern for street cars, and the VQ's in particular don't get very good results from RP on the oil analysis.

at 5K rpm going uphill + not going very fast + watever extra weight you got onboard, that will get the engine pretty hot.

Oil cooler will be the first mod for the Z when she comes out of the garage come spring time. I notice a huge difference in performance between 180-200 degree and the 220+ range.

in contrast, i have no plans to install an oil cooler (street driving) this spring or any time of the season. :D

kenchan what are those z's in your avatar? they are awesome!! i want!

:icon18: those are ChoroQ Hybrid's. they are remote control. :tup: