Why even get into a horse power race? The Z is much more than an engine with xx numer of power, it looks and drives beautifully.

Most people aren't even going to drive it at it's limit with the stock power.

7 AT base line 260 to 264.5
with full bolt ons 309 rwhp SAE or 320 actual rwhp.
Add some 4.08 gears and its plenty quick compared to a stock 7 AT.
12.800 14 mile times on street tire's Im now trapping at 112.
+ I just put on a M370 intake manifold
Its alot faster now.
do not forget to put on an oil cooler, and a tranney cooler.

Z

did you get my pm?

Drop in k&n filters=$100 to $120 and give you 4 hp

So don't mod your car...?

CBE+Test pipes/high flow cats+intake = 10% to 12% more power over baseline throughout the rev range.

Figure another 3% to 5% with headers and a few more on top of that with pulleys if you are adventurous.

Whether or not it's worth it to you is entirely subjective -- but keep in mind that this "mere" 10% - 12% is greater than the difference in power output between the VQ35 and VQ37.

Thus, I think, not a trivial gain...

If the % increase seems weak for the cost, why don't you check the 1/4 mile times of folks with various mods and base it on that?

Or... if this is about "seat of the pants", see if someone with such and such mods will take you for a drive and see if that helps you decide.

Or... if you just want really big numbers for bragging rights, save up for FI or, I guess, buy a different car...?

Just stateing facts for people who don't want to seach thru a ton of stuff. Its nice to realize the big picture before going down an expensive road and not getting the best bang for your buck vs just enjoying what you have.

Price-wise, that sucks. Mod-wise, I am impressed with the gains made without ever loosening a valve-cover. Very nice.

Plenty of people drive their cars at their limit with the stock power and even if it's just on an on-ramp or getting around some annoying guy on the freeway who happens to be trying to get around you in another sports car, it's a rush.

I've got about 2 grand into all of that, if not a little less. Only difference is I have test pipes instead of HFCs and I got an extremely good deal on the tune. 311rwhp @ Z1.

Gains at peak don't necessarily tell you about gains under the rest of the curve.

I'd say best bang for the buck is K&N plus test pipes. Best gains for least cash. See my dynos below. You can find evidence of similar proportionate gains (tho' raw values may vary, as I've been saying) for others.

Whether or not those gains are worth it is subjective.

If you want really big power for relatively little cash, only other suggestion I have is nitrous.

Isn't nitrous a car killer?

If you use it constantly.

When you say K&N are you referring to an intake swap or the drop in filters? If the filters did the tone of the car change?

^^ the drop in filters

I agree with JORDO on alot of this. The K&N drop ins will surprise you and the cats are chocking the car the most. CBE really gets you nothing by itself and costs the most. Like what he said for the least amount of headache and time and money go with TP's and drop ins. remember with the headers you have to drop or remove the engine to do (if you can without doing this more power to you). CBE dosent do really anything because the exhaust has already been limited with the stock headers and the cats. The only issue you will really have with the cats is getting a good angle on the bolts because they are VERY tight and you should go buy grade "A" nuts and bolts and washers along with antisieze (only a recomendation).

Also a recomendation, just buy the TP's, headers used if you can. It will not effect anything plus some people need the money and sell VERY cheap.