It sounds like Dreezy wasn't giving the engine enough time to wind down. Instead of letting off the gas at the same time depressing the clutch, he is gettting smoother shifts by letting off the gas then going for the clutch.

Yeah its cuz the srm holds the revs if you don't let it wind down it will buck if you let off the clutch too quickly

This is the problem I have with it. I've been driving manual trans cars for about 15 years and I felt like a complete idiot when I test drove this one. The guy asks me if I know how to drive stick and I say yeah sure. I didn't stall it but when we got back to the dealer lot, I over-slipped the clutch parking it and got a nice burning clutch smell (on a car I wasn't going to buy). I felt like a total a-hole.

I had a turbo Celica with an RPS clutch in it. It was an organic clutch, but it engaged pretty low on the pedal and I think the overall pedal travel was less. I really liked being able to modulate the pedal by pivoting my heel on the floor. I felt I had much better control over the engagement.

Does anyone know if there's a way to adjust the clutch pedal on this car? I'd like to bring the pedal down since half the travel is wasted anyways.

another 14 year clutch verteran and i still have a few jerky momments in my Z. sometimes i feel the clutch engagement point changes if the car is warm vs hot.

Ok good.I thought I went full retard but I guess I'm not the only one with some rough moments. Like u guys I'm used to just using my ankle and heel to regulate the amount of movmement on the pedal.. its a lot eqsier to control then having to use your whole leg

i see what you were saying now. agreed.

There was a thread on a 350z site, that referenced a thread on a G35 site, wherein such an adjustment was discussed. However, I never could find the original 'how-to' upon which the discussion was based. It seemed like it was deleted, maybe because someone realized it was causing damage to the clutch or trans. There WERE some folks reporting problems downshifting after doing this mystery adjustment.

[edit] I found this procedure. I have not tried it. It may, or may not, be the procedure I mention above. Looking at it, I think it would do the trick with no bad side-effects (may have to adjust the Pedal Stopper Bolt and/or ASCD Clutch switch). Do this at your own risk. I THINK posting this link is within forum rules, but I'm sure a Mod will correct me if I am wrong.
http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Clutch_Adjustment

To read the procedure and compare to the diagram, realize that when the writer says "fork" he means "clevis".
When he says "rod" or "Rod with a hole drilled in it" he means "clevis pin".
When he says "bobby pin" or "cotter pin" he means "clevis pin retainer".

I'll be doing this today, can't stand the high engauge point!

Just finished, clutch is perfect now. The trick is to unmount the clutch master from the fire wall, then you can ajust it easy. Don't take the nuts off, just loosen them all the way, then there is room to work in.

Excellent! Goes to the top of my 'to do' list.

Excellent, I'll have to look into this.

But... does it cause premature clutch wear?

"at your own risk"
The net result of this mod is reduced pedal throw. So, if it was to cause a problem, I would think it would be balky shifting, hard to get into reverse, grinding of gears, etc (due to clutch not completely disengaged with pedal at floor). I would think if you have none of these symptoms after doing the adjustment, you are good to go. If you have ANY of these symptoms, and continue to drive it, you could cause premature wear to the clutch and trans.

If you feel like your shifts get harder, you have trouble getting into gears or there is any sort of grinding, immediately reverse this mod. My opinion is that you should be perfectly safe moving the clutch pedal a bit closer to the floor.

Hey, pokeyl
I forgot to ask: how many turns did you adjust the clevis? Did you readjust the "pedal stopper bolt"?