You could go many miles before CSC fails. It's really a personal decision. I had no plan, my CSC failed . Luckily I had Triple AAA Tow coverage. I never had problems with clutch plate/pressure plate. I just chose to upgrade to a stronger Street Performance/track clutch kit since I later plan on going "forced Induction". OEM flywheel is heavy but ensures quiet trans. I went to a solid steel ACT Streetlite flywheel for improved performance. I do notice minor chatter when at idle, in a garage, in neutral with A/C on and windows down. It's not noticeable once out in the open. The performance improvement & responsiveness by far out weigh that minor chatter under those circumstances. I purchased clutch kit, flywheel, HD CSC, CMC, Insulated Cluthline, MOTUL Gear Oil & GTR Fluid all from ZSpeed and very pleased with their service/parts/prices & S/H.

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Yeah so save a little money the stock clutch is fine than. I plan on getting use but low mileage. So csc with the arp pedal change should be fine?

Sorry guys meant afp by rjm performance

Can you please elaborate on this if you don't mind? Looking at this setup and would like to know how this compares to stock in performance gains, longevity and feel?

OK, bare with me, I'm a "driver" not so much a "gear head" so my observations are from that perspective. ACT HDSS Clutch, needs 300-500 miles breakin (not just highway miles; stop n go daily driving too). So far I only have 78 miles on it. The lighter ACT Streetlite Flywheel gives quicker revs, and upshifting is extremely fast & smooth. Quick downshifting I found is much smoother with double clutching/rev matching, & heel n toe driving method. Yesterday on my way to a "Z & Coffee Event" I got stuck in a backup on I-70, stop n go 5mph or less. It did get a little annoying with some clutch judder. It seemed to increase with each time I let out on clutch (about every 30-90 seconds as cars inched along). Once cleared and moving clutch settled down & was fine during normal stop light/intersection stops. Again, remember I have not reached the full BREAKIN PERIOD as of yet! The lighter flywheel has less mass therefore as quickly as it revs up, it also revs down. You will notice that you may have to rev a little higher to start from a stopped position on a incline/hill. But I've gotten much better with it with practice. In a way, you will have to learn your clutch style over again when changing from OEM setup, but thats not bad, its no different than getting use to clutch feel in a different car than your are use to driving. Definitely change transmission gear oil to the MOTUL Gear Oil (ZSpeed 4qts=$74.00). Cheaper, old gear oil may result in louder chatter noise. There is a YouTube by ZSpeed where Joe demonstrates flywheel chatter from a 19lb solid flywheel. Though he doesn't mention brand name, I DO NOT THINK it is a ACT 19lb flywheel, because no-way does the ACT HDSS Clutch Kit & ACT 19lb Streetlite Flywheel sound that loud on my car whether it be cold/hot start, or A/C on or off, clutch in or out at idle.
As I break-in this system I will post updates and will closely monitor if there is any change in level of noise chatter, grabbing, slipping etc. It's still new setup (only 78 miles on it), and currently I am very pleased with it.
If you plan to eventually go FI, you will have to upgrade from OEM Clutch.

Thank you for your reply. Interesting that it revs up quicker than stock. I eventually will go FI but not for a couple of years. At the moment its my DD and I mostly drive in the city and not in the highway. Just want something robust that its better than stock quality wise.

I'm in the same boat in deciding what all to update while I'm in there for the csc

Take your time when choosing. Research as much as possible; what are you future goals/mods for car, driving habits (daily driver, weekend warrior or track only). Also consider what kind of traffic you have to contend with. If you are in daily back-ups/gridlock/rush hour traffic you may want to keep OEM flywheel, and just upgrade to a HD CSC. Joe at ZSpeed was a very big help to me. He answers questions & can help you choose based upon your driving goals/requirements.

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Thanks for your feedback. Any chance you know the cost for csc?

Meant installing

Basically the same as a clutch install since most of the labor is dropping the tranny. 5-6 shop hrs. Cost will depend on the labor rate but roughly $100/hr

Thanks bud. I'm considering your setup because it is not a daily driver more of a weekend car and I am very rarely ever in traffic and I would consider going forced induction in a year maybe two

Yes I purchased HD CSC from ZSpeed at $325.00 plus S&H. (OEM CSC runs about 115.00 to 125.00)But you can save more at ZSpeed. You see I was buying parts each week on payday; it took me a month to finally get everything I wanted. ( I've been on a budget ever since divorce, haha) But ZSpeed has "Package Deals" that include CLUTCH kits/flywheel/new CMC/HD CSC/ insulated CLUTCH line too,,, that are cheaper than buying piece meal like I did. Plus you'll have just one S&H charge.

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It's becoming apparent to me that the Nissan 370Z Manual transmission has a "Achilles Heel", the CSC ! So no matter how Nissan boasts of HP, 0 to 60mph times, or any bogus claim of fame of the 370Z, IT IS A WEAK CAR,, their CSC product is SH*T ! And leaves you stranded & embarrassed no matter how good the car looks. The fact is A Mazda Miata, or a Suburu BRZ has a more reliable Drive Train! It's a classic tale of the "Tortoise & the Hare". Nissan being the Hare, and all others being the steady/reliable Tortoise. ! Dam the Suburu WRX STI is looking really good. You build cars upon a foundation, and if you build a car upon a WEAK DRIVE TRAIN, then you got a WEAK car no matter the horsepower/suspension/interior features etc. Very Disappointed in Nissan!

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Im excited to get my transmission upgraded.. Im still awaiting my fluids from in the mail. Maybe by this weekend, I could be rocking and rolling.