Oil cooler fan
 

I am thinking about installing an electric fan onto the oil cooler. This will replace the blockoff plate that I currently have.

The way I see it, I would turn it on when stuck in traffic and when the temp is at 220. It would also make me not want to manually uninstall the plate in the summer time. FYI, in the morning and non-summer seasons, my temp range is 185-210.

So, has anyone thought about this yet? Push or pull fan? I don't have a synchro-rev so I may use that area for the oil fan switch. Anyone has a free oil cooler with a thermo-switch? :)

Thanks.

Setrab actaully makes a fan pack for the Setrab Oil Cooler cores. But it is limited to a particular size core only.

I push type fan would probably work best since most OC Kits install the core so close to the condensor. I would look into a Hayden thermostatic relay (Hayden # 3651-H).

What oil cooler kit do you currently have?

Turn on the Ac, in heavy traffic, and you can bring down the oil temp. it's the same thing you're suggesting.
I'm at 190-210 in heavy canyon running with ambient at 90+, in heavy bumper to bumper traffic the most I see is 210 if that.

My AC is always on. I could make the blockoff smaller to drop it at 210 degrees; but since I leave the house daily at 5 am, I don't want to "overcool."

my kit is from the diy section but I bought a bigger size cooler knowing that I am somewhat lead-foot. I know that 220 is ok, but I guess I am just wanting another project. :)

your local autoparts store probably sells a hayden electronic fan wiring kit. buy a small e-fan, the electronic control kit(not the thermostatic one), and follow directions. it has all the relays you need and a screw you turn to set the turn on temp. it doesn't get easier, and you could probably get everything for 50 bucks.

i have had a fan on my cooler for about 3 months nows, big difference at low speeds and idle. but i am removing it and going to run dual coolers.

Stillen is actually running dual oil coolers on their Red Shop 370z with the Prototype Supercharger. I was speaking with the guys from Stillen at ZCON 2010 about it but I cannot recall the size cores they were running.

I did it on my Audi. Generally pretty ineffective, and those SPAL fans are Noisy. In addition, the fan blocks a lot of the flow through the cooler, so it's less effective in general.

Personally I'd skip. With a correctly sized cooler you can run 3/4 of the year with no block-off, then just slip it on for the winter. The cooler install on my Z worked just fine this way..

Without a cooler, 220 degrees is a normal temp on this car....Nothing to worry about at all and no need to introduce additional cooling efforts, expense and complexity....

Audi Fan install:
http://images50.fotki.com/v397/photo...SCF0034-vi.jpg

http://images25.fotki.com/v950/photo...SCF0003-vi.jpg

I just side mounted my fast intentions 32 row cooler kit upside down ... the hoses reach and the bracketry locked right in with minimal drilling and some 2.5 in nuts n bolts.. (orientation very specific to available space)

Because I track the car, and it's the only time she starts cooking, I'm in the process of adding in a 5.2 pusher spal, deleting the drls, and I just got back from the junk yard with some vented fender liners...

So the setrab switch is a 10a max load, the spal fan is about 5a max load @310cfm 12v, I'll most likely run straight to bat with a 7.5a inline fuse...

The idea here is 4 pronged...

1: clear out the csf radiator (living behind an intercooler)
2: vent that heat straight out of the car
3: add extra intake from the drl holes (aftermarket nose or naca ducts if I'm not happy)
4: keep airflow running even at high load, lower speeds

Everything aftermarket is subject to r&d. But it's a fun process.

Once this project completes, I'll be adding 2 small coolers where I deleted the windshield wiper fluid reservoir for ps and trans.. ( I did get a small reservoir from the junk yard for a trunk relocate below the carpet)

As long as you can get that heat out of the engine bay, you are winning 1/2 the battle

Most who have a side mounted oil cooler, cut holes in the fender liner behind the cooler to vent the air. And glue a mesh screen over the holes.

You shouldn't have turned the oil cooler upside down. It will drain back into the oil pan with the engine off. With the engine off. You will read one level. With the engine running. Your oil level will drop to fill up the cooler. It's hard to get the right level with the upside down cooler. There have been a couple of threads on the subject.