what is Modshack defecting to?

Heh heh....I've had 58 cars. There are a few more on the Bucket List I need to check out before I can't drive anymore!

I can certainly do it again. However, I had the whole car on jack stands when I did it the first time. There isn't any noise when I turn the wheel lock to lock now (doesn't sound like a pissed off PS pump), and the sound is minimal when the engine is cold. As things heat up though, the throttle-related whir sound gets louder. I'm about to chalk this up to being nothing to worry about. FWIW, I'm using Redline PS fluid...anything fishy about that?

Someone just posted this article. Interesting that the R&T team heard the noise as well. Rather than being engine oil related, JB1 had an interesting theory that installing the cooler just gives an avenue to transmit engine noise that was otherwise more contained...a speaker-like effect. Who knows.

Wrap Up: 2009 Nissan 370Z Touring - Article - RoadandTrack.com
Quote:
For experimental purposes, we measured interior noise both before and after a switch to conventional oil. We found there was a noticeable gain of about six decibels at middle revs in 1st gear but no real discernible difference in maximum cabin loudness. Sans sound meter, some complained about the increase of whirring sounds at low rpm over time, which are reminiscent of radio speaker feedback from an improperly grounded audio system.

I just put my cooler on this morning and wasn't able to hear anything. Maybe the rubber buffered brackets that Setrab/Z1 put in their kits stops the vibration? Or maybe my ears are too wrecked from loud music and farm work to pick it up. :P

We'll see...I'm installing the Setrab on Sunday.

JB1 did a little research. Turns out the rubber dampers are used to reduce vibration in the cooler which could cause cavitation bubbles. Apparently he has a knowledgable source who has seen an STI engine blow from a rigidly mounted cooler and vibration causing bubble formation.

Jeeze....Do you guys believe everything you read on the internet?? That is impossible. I can guarantee that shaking oil does not cause bubbles. This is not a carbonated beverage. "Knowledgeable" source my a$$. Unbelievable...

http://images19.fotki.com/v207/photo...bsmeter-vi.gif

I didnt use any rubber gaskets mounting my cooler, no noise

I just buy the carbonated version of Nissan's voodoo enigne oil to begin with...my engine feels so tingly and belches a lot.

Have you tried a engine stethoscope to locate the source of the noise?
Good luck!

Modshack has been particularly grumpy lately.

I'll stethoscope the engine when I'm swapping coolers on Sunday.

The Setrab has been installed and the Tru-Cool retired. The whirring sound that was very audible is now history. Not sure what to attribute that to, but the sound is gone with the Tru-Coo removed.

Very impressed with the Setrab too. Build quality is excellent, the fittings are a breeze to install, and the cooling ability is superb. 80F ambient temps and triple digit speeds (on a closed course) had temps staying at 195F (200F sandwich thermostat). The only time temps go over 200 is sitting in traffic and they max out at 210 with aggressive stop-start street driving. I have a true track day coming in a week or two and I'm excited to see where the temps go.

Well worth the troubles to get this thing installed.

What is Tru-Cool? what did you do to get rid of the sound? you replaced the oil cooler or the PS cooler?

Can you explain more plz.

Thanks.

Tru-Cool is a brand of economy racing oil coolers. He replaced his Tru-Cool unit with a Setrab.

^Yep.

The noise is described in the first posts I made in this thread. I later found I had two problems, one potentially my fault and one not. First, there was a leak from one of the fittings on the Tru-Cool. I'm mechanically inclined and have an engineering degree, yet I found the NPT fittings in the Tru-Cool to be needlessly tedious to install and left more possibility for leaks (NPT fittings have non-sealing threads, so you need thread sealant was well). The NPTs don't screw in far, are difficult to align in the desired direction without f'ing up the threads and the sealant I used didn't seal well. The leak may have been an error on my part during installation of the fitting, or the Permatex thread sealant was past its shelf-life (per Permatex).

The second problem was a leak from one of the AN fittings that screwed onto the sandwich plate. After further investigation, the hose company I used to fab custom hoses installed a bad stainless steel fitting on one hose. It won't screw all the way down and leaves about 4 threads exposed while the other three have about 1-2 threads exposed after tightening. I've changed out the Earls adapter the hose screws onto, yet the problem persists. It looks like a bad tap on the on the SS hose fitting. So, I'm working on solving that problem when the hose place opens tomorrow.

The short of it is that the whirring noise started after I installed the Tru-Cool. I've since removed the Tru-Cool and installed a Setrab 25 row (600 series) in its place. The slight leak at the AN fitting hasn't been dealt with yet. Irregardless, the whirring sound is gone and my car sounds like it did before the oil cooler saga began. I suppose one could argue that the sound was either from the Tru-Cool or from the leak at the Tru-Cool fitting, but I don't have any good explanation how a slow leak would cause that sound.

Please, this isn't a call for rebuttals about how Tru-Cools are good coolers. It certainly cooled the oil, but the design and ease of installation of the cooler doesn't equal that of the Setrab. If you're looking for the budget option, try the Tru-Cool. I did and wished I just got the Setrab from the start.

From the pictures, it looks like the Setrab are much higher in quality (Of course I have to sell my soul for it)

Night and day quality difference. That being said, if I didn't have a fitting leak I might still be using the Tru-Cool. But the leak was enough to motivate me to swap it out.

Did you end up re-routing anything? Or isolating anything from the frame/body?

The whine from mine is pretty loud and I'm trying to get a better idea of what it could be so I can get the shop to fix it the first time I bring it back in.

(Nismo kit w/setrab and swapped out Mocal plate)

Just installed my cooler yesterday and I too am having the whine noise issue, exact same setup as you too. (Nismo with a 34row and the Mocal plate).

I would love to hear if you find anything out as to how to get rid of the whirring.

My shop (Autoscope in Dallas) mostly fixed it. I had them look at it again since the noise was at its worst when the car was fully warm. They ended up going over all of the hoses and insulating it from the body/frame with foam insulation and something else (maybe felt? I can't recall now).

Now, the whine is there when the car hits 180 on the gauge, but it's very distant and mostly quiet. You would mistake it for a slight gear whine and passengers don't notice at all.

The noise mine makes is similar to nabenson's. It's just not a big enough deal to bother with, so I've grown accustom to it.

So im bumping this back up from the long long ago.

I installed the Fast Intentions oil cooler this past weekend, and I have the oil cooler whine that everyone here is speaking of, it sounds like when you have a bad PS pump. It increases and decreases with RPMs, and really only starts once the engine/oil have warmed.

I replaced the filter last night out of caution, retorqued the sandwich plate and all the AN fittings, but the sound is still there. Has anyone ever figured out how to kill this noise? Its loud enough for me to hear in the car while driving in 1st and 2nd gears.

I have the Z1 34-row kit on mine with the optional protective sheathing and no noise. I wonder if the sheathing has something to do with it.

Same here. I had the Z1 oil cooler with covered hoses, no noise. And no I'm not deaf.. I could hear the ECU whine loud and clear.

im with LostSol I just installed my 34 row last week, I have the smallest leak I could imagine so I need to install the lines on the sandwich plate dry and try that, but I have the whine sound as well if you Google oil cooler noise it's kind of a common thing it has to deal with the stainless steel lines touching the frame somewhere and your hearing the pulsing vibration of the oil going through the lines.

heard people dull the sound with heater hose from a hardware store that they use on water heaters. go under the car and follow your lines and see where they touch or think they are touching and wrap the part of the line and zip tie it. could also have a second helper move the lines while you rev the car and isolate the noise and then wrap that specific part as well. ill be doing it this weekend.

Thanks for the info and ideas, ill be doing my brake ducts this weekend so ill have a chance to check the lines again and see if its just an NVH issue