I have noticed very distinct differences in the way the car interferes with my driving via the brake switches and a complete power cut...

The brake switches typically activate when i'm getting heavy footed in a straight line but the Gas cut is when I whip around and heavy foot a 90 degree turn

Yup it can happen. Even with VDC off I tried to floor it in a parking lot with the steering wheel turned. It didn't kick the tail. It would just ramp up slowly in first as if I started in the wrong gear. I'm sure in almost all cases the lag is not there when starting off at 2k RPM.

^ Keep in mind that "VDC Off" doesn't really disable all of the car's traction assistance. At the very least, it still has ABLS active. Not sure about other elements. If you really want to test something and know that none of the traction aids are causing something, unplug the Bosch yaw sensor under the center console (near the parking brake lever / cupholder).

Yeh I know what you mean....it’s sad. The brake switch (both) replacement did improve some but it all came back when the ambient temperatures rose above 85 degrees.

Humm.... be nice if there was a way to tap a line off the air conditioner and run it to the intake manifold.

Yup did that and the lag was still there. It was before replacing the brake switch.

subbed to read later

Throttle lag - resolved with pedal box.

PedalBox by DTE Systems GmbH - Distributed in North America by TWM Performance

my cars done this lag thing a couple times. may be unrelated to the real issue, dont care. but just a curious question. is it possible to make VDC go away, like 100% gone from the car as in REMOVED. its garbage, premium 350z owners hated it, and now 370z owners hate it and EVERY single professional race car driver that drives one on the track says the car would be 145000% better without that dumb ****. wish nissan would stop intentionally gimping their cars, and leave the driving TO THE DRIVERS.

As I said a few posts above, and has been said many times on this forum before: to kill all traction aids, unplug the Bosch yaw sensor. It's underneath the center console plastics, not far from the cup holder. If you had small hands and already knew exactly what it looked like and where it was, you could probably just pull out the cup holder and reach in and unplug it, but worst case just remove the center console first. It's only a handful of screws and plastic clippy things.

Without the yaw sensor VDC, TCS, and ABLS are all completely disabled, but you still have ABS brakes. Mine's been that way for a while now. If you're slipping the wheels on purpose on a regular basis, especially cornering for a road course and/or auto-x, the ABLS will really screw with you randomly when cornering near the limit.

With all that stuff out of the way, you can abuse your tires all you want and control it manually. I can just floor the car from a roll in, say, 2nd gear, and burn through a gear or two ("cleaning off the tires" :) ) and keep it straight with the driver inputs, and the car doesn't balk or try to do anything funny at all. It also won't save you when you're too hot in a corner, but that's a good thing - gotta learn to save yourself. VDC has horrible ideas about the right way to save it anyways :P

Good info wstar ! Saves me $$ as I was going to get the black box (dyi thread here somewhere) but I understand it only turns it off but the VDC is still partially activated. Your method is better and saves $$.

Props to you kind sir !

stretch of a question, but is it something you could snap a pic of? If I could get eyes on to what im dealing with im might feel more comfortable "worst case" tearing apart my console to reach one little wire. describe it with a little more detail if you could, aside from (yaw sensor) I dont want to unintentionally disconnect its oddly placed twin sister sensor that prematurely activates its "break right after warranty expires" mode.

does anybody know for sures if this works? anybody tired it besides you, sir?

Any of these kind of systems that claim to fix throttle response do not work for this particular problem with our 370Z.

Easiest case example. When my 370 goes into this frustrating 'mode', doing 90km/h (55mph) on the Freeway in 6th gear and flooring the pedal (WOT), if you have the ability to monitor both the Pedal Position and ECU Throttle Position (I use DashCommand on an Android tablet and Bluetooth OBD2 adapter), the Pedal Position snaps to 100%, yet the ECU Throttle Position does not, instead it will hit approx 35-40% and slowly increment (you'll feel the power slowly kick in over time while at WOT) as my speed rises until I'm doing about 130km/h (80mph), and then the ECU Throttle Position will end up matching the Pedal Postion. This is not the case shortly after start-up when the Pedal Position & Throttle Position are nearly 1:1.

Second case example. Taking off from a stand still in 1st gear. As you take off you feel that massive gap of power even when flooring (WOT) the pedal. If you could monitor Pedal Position & ECU Throttle, you could see that Pedal Position is at 100%, while ECU Throttle Position is at 20-30%, and then after about a second of delay, quickly ramps up to about 80% (this is when you feel the power come back), and the car starts to move properly again.

The system mentioned above is installed between the Pedal and the ECU. It interprets the signal from the Pedal and adjusts it based on what mode you put it on. But it still is not addressing the cause of the problem, the ECU limiting the throttle response, all it is doing is manipulating the Pedal Position signal.... your foot can do that. It would not solve the problems above in any way whatsoever.

I am not saying they do not work. The principle behind them is valid, but with regards to this particular issue in our cars, they will not resolve anything. If the car was working normally and not suffering from these problems and you installed one of these systems, yes you would notice a slight difference in response. No power increase, just response, (and again, nothing your foot can't do).

MoulaZ

I can't take a useful pic of the area or the sensor, my car's all gutted out in that area for good. It's a blocky little sensor that's screwed down and has a single wiring harness connector, and the label on it says Bosch, and it's under the center console, a little rearward from the shifter. There's no oddly-placed twin sister of it in that area. If you pull the console off it will be obvious. The service manual can be downloaded from this site in PDF form and tells you how to do that, it's pretty simple.

All of that said - I'm just providing functional information here, not recommendations on what you should do or how you should judge situations. For many people, removing or unplugging the Yaw sensor might be a bad idea. If you end up posting a "Disabled my yaw sensor and wrecked my car!" thread like those VDC-OFF threads, don't mention me in it - you're on your own and you've been warned - especially if this is a normal street-driven car and/or other people might drive your car!

And yeah, I can only imagine your insurance company's reaction, or nissan's reaction, to a totaled car from spinning off into a light pole and finding the driver intentionally disabled all the car's traction safety features :rofl2:

I've removed the tcs + yaw and in drifting 2nd gear...the pedal delay is still an issue. I had a pro driver test it last night to confirm I'm not the only one feeling this delay.