But is that the case for everyone else?

Everything else I have seen has pointed towards the oil heating issue.

I think it depends. High oil temps definitely result in lethargic performance across the board, but the issue also seems to be independant of oil temps. You can get the crazy lag when the engine is running at 180*, 200*, or 220*.

The oil temp association is probably a red-herring. High oil temps just correspond with high overall engine bay temps and likely occur concomitantly with heat soak. So coolish oil but a hot engine bay still causes the lag.

Someone brought up an interesting point about the NISMO, though. If there are no NISMO owners reporting any delay issues, perhaps it has something to do with the ECU/VVEL tuning.

If I were to guess, I would think it's some sort of engine control, as I've had it happen in winter or summer, with a cold engine or a heat-soaked engine, it doesn't seem to matter.

Steve is right... everything you have described are pretty much the exact same issues I've have even when ambient temps are in the 40s.

Something is getting hot and it doesn't like it. Sometimes I wonder if the VVEL actuators are getting too hot. I burned my finger touching the actuator motor. O_o

G37 owners had this issue for a long time, but I do not recall any solutions other than the Sprint Booster suggestion. IIRC, complaints started after an ECU update to remedy the VVEL actuator clicking problem.

like what?

I know my z06 never sees temps under 190*, and people have seen 310* on summer track days.

I don't think never seeing temps of 220* is normal.

Ok guys, i have this problem and I can't read through 41 pages LOL, so what's the solution? anyone?

extend your posts per page setting and itll only be 17 pages.

hehe

umm basically just down shift then accelerate and there is no delay. The only time i notice a delay is in Auto mode on my 7at. if im in manual, i downshift to hit like 4500 rpm's and im out of there.

Also, I haven't read most of this thread so yea.

The trouble is you can't downshift when you're already in 1st gear trying to get away from a light.

It's not an issue of being outside of the torque curve, it's some sort of electronic issue that cuts all throttle after an initial surge. So far we have determined it's not oil temp, ambient temp, or heat soak related. It has to be something within the ECU, perhaps related to VVEL, that is causing it.

that's weird. I have only noticed pedal delay in the higher gears.... 3 4 5

idk....

i rarely have this problem, and my temps never exceed 220 (they usually stay at 200-210). It is very difficult to diagnose this problem without the proper scan tools, which is going to require a helpful, knowledgeable dealer (is that even possible?!). There may be a correlation between the oil temps and VVEL operation, but again, nissan's scan tools are needed to read whats going on.

Give it time, Econ, you'll notice it soon. Best opportunity for this delay to happen is in stop/go traffic in the middle of August (at least that's been my experience).
NOTE: That's 2 more people without NISMOs that have joined the gas pedal delay convo. I'm geting more and more convinced. My plan is to trade up for the NISMO at a Nissan dealer. If they happen to notice the issue with the car then I'll ask them to fix it themselves under warranty.

I love a good can of worms. :stirthepot:

Let me repost the YouTube video below to show the difference in power with a "cool" and a "hot" engine. Normally this car has plenty of power to move, and it can break loose my 285 Hankooks from roll! After 15-30 minutes of driving in warm weather, I start bogging the gears like a newb as if I'm not giving enough gas to get the car moving. You can see in the video how long it takes to get the car moving in 1st and 2nd from a roll. Pitiful.

Damn, DIGItonium, that video makes me sad, dude.

Is it consistently reproducible when the car is hot? I'm barely broken in and my oil temp is around 220 pretty consistently and the car still gets up and moves nicely.

happened since I first got the car. I thought it was normal that the car lacked torque until things became noticeable in the summer.

I spoke with my dad's friend today, a licensed mechanic, and he suggested a few things: MAF and/or O2 sensors. The heat may cause inaccurate readings causing the ECU to cut power. I do remember the tech mentioning the rough feeling while accelerating in 3rd as fuel being cut. Why? He did not know. He thought the exhaust was making things lean, but I told him people with stock cars and new ones off the lot were experiencing the same problem.

Think there are inconsistent quality of our sensors?