With air preasure set at 15 lbs on the 305 35 18 drag radials and a good burnout with the line lock. They should hook good and stick to the track.

Actually it doesn't - you have to order both kits from them and pay way too much for them.

I got everything needed for $660 shipped. Buy from them and you'll pay $900+ with shipping.

from Nissan?

And just to be sure no welding needed right? I remember reading something about welding when I was looking for prices online.

No welding needed. And parts for mime from Nissan were $980.

PM me I can get all parts needed and ship them to you at a discount.

Now he chimes in! :bowrofl:

Thanks for the offer though!

I just placed a second order- decided to replace the seals / bearings all the way around. New total for everything is $810 shipped - still a couple hundred cheaper than Z1 and others though. I used nissanpartsdirect.com and Infinitipartsonline.com.

Sorry my fellow z owners :(

Don't worry about it man, better late than never! :tup: :tiphat:

So to confirm, the parts list is the same for the 3.9 final drive swap with the exception of the ring/pinion which appears to be part #: 38100-0B66A?

Wanna make sure I can use that part number for the final drive, quite a bit cheaper than the Tomei 3.9 set on Z1Motorsports.

3.916 Frontier gears
 

I'm currently running the 3.916 Frontier gears (38100-0B66A), w/no problems. I recommend a clutch LSD while you have the rear diff opened up though- that was the most noticeable difference. If and when open source reflashing :confused: becomes available (a La ECU Flash for EVO) for the Z34, I'll definitely upgrade to the 4.363 (38100-0C860) :eek: ring n pinion w/a good lean tune below 3,500 RPM.

Cool thanks for the info! I'm looking at the same LSD too, did you order yours off Z1Auto?

I got the gears put in on Monday and wow, what a difference it makes. I was apprehensive about it being too much and it affecting drivability - not at all. I read someone say it's like the car is on steroids now and thats the best way I can think to describe it. Pulls much harder - best mod I've done so far.

Just some info for those that were wondering - in my 6mt, 3000 rpm puts me at 73 mph. About 300 rpm higher than before, but not an issue at all. Doesn't have that "need to shift" feel at all.

Only downside is I do have some "gear whine" at about 40 mph when applying drive input to maintain that speed. If I let off the whine goes away during deceleration and coasting, the shop is going to adjust the pinion pre load and should take care of it.

Will update with the adjustment. Best $1100 I've spent on the car by far!

^ do you feel that your top end it must "farther" or limited now that you have the gears?

top end is not hurt at all by the gears unless you're crazy, you CAN hit 160mph+ and you will get there quicker with 4.08's

agreed - I'm still technically "breaking them in" but I have access to a runway where I'll soon test 'em out. But practically speaking, no, no noticeable difference. The car just feels like it needs to keep going .... so fun to drive now.

On the downside, and I'm hoping maybe jnaut and tranceformer will chime in, I talked to the shop that put em in today. Told him about the whine under light acceleration, just enough drive input to maintain speed, and he acted like there was nothing more he could do - he said the mesh pattern was perfect, and then gave me the dreaded "some gear sets just whine ... can't tune em out"

Told me to drive it for awhile and let everything "seat" and see if it changes any. I'm also going to switch to Redline 75W90 to see if it helps any. But I don't think it will. Any reason to believe that this may work itself out after break in ???? That just doesn't make sense to me ....

So I'm hoping you guys can give me some ammo to go back with ... as far as specific adjustments. Anyone else see this? Any experience with pinion preload adjustments? Mesh patterns that work better than others i.e. more toe, or more heel patterns? Anything that will convince him to break into it again and make an adjustment.