I think the dyno operator definitely made an error. I was at a dyno event yesterday and while the cars continued to pull the dyno test window would close early on my runs. I believe that may have happened here, the test window will close but the car will continue pulling. I'm dynoing on a dynojet myself today, I'll have to keep a hawk eye on the operator.

Will most likely take it to another place in a month or so.

My theory is that you got there with a hot car, threw it on the dyno and got a low first run. Then you let it cool down and it made EXACTLY the power it is supposed to make to the wheels on a dynojet on your second run. Then you did another run after when the car was still heatsoaked.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the car was not allowed to cool down before run one or before run three?

Don't be disappointed by your results, a lot has to do with the gear you ran and dyno calibrations. Why would you run 5th anyway?

I would have expected about 280-285 with your mods, but 275 is close....dyno numbers mean nothing without baseline numbers anyway....

5th would trip the max speed, therefore would truncate your HP rating...

5th gear is the 1:1 ratio. Some dynos, however, can't take the maximum speed in 5th, so it has to be done in 4th.

Car was parked in the lot and set for about 20 minutes before the first run. Started car, entered bay, shut car down, strapped down and completed the first run.

Shut car off for maybe a few minutes and completed second run. Waited maybe a minute and did the third run.

A GT500 Mustang dynoed there and had a killer top speed on his run. Not really sure what gear he was in though.

SAE or actual numbers? Also, did you reset your ECU prior to the dyno? Also, you should probably dyno in 4th. Was this a dyno jet or mustang dyno?

Could be any number of things honestly...if the room was hot your car will pull timing and that will KILL your numbers. Of course, did you make sure that the stability control was turned off? Better yet...disabled completely? Last question...what fuel were you running?

I agree 100% with this, you have to let the car cool for a good bit OR ice the motor down. There are so many variables when you dyno a car...what gap are your plugs, what fuel are you running, what was the timing, humidity, air temp, gear ratio, mods (along with settings) etc...etc...

Don't be disappointed and keep in mind that you will get different numbers on different dynos as well. As long as the car feels strong on the road that's all that matters. Personally, I liked to back up dyno numbers with timed pulls at the track. So many different things could have taken place so don't even begin to sweat it unless you covered everything...and it sounds like you had few things that could have been working against you. (big one being HEAT)

Guys, I was on a dynojet yesterday, we're supposed to dyno in the gear closest to 1:1 hence that's 5th gear. I came real close to the top speed limiter, just shy of it actually and she went all the way to 7500...I honestly think the operator didn't know what he was doing.

I guess the #'s are SAE. No reset of the ECU. It was on a Dynojet. Stability control was shut off as well. Fuel is Sunoco Ultra 93.

So here is a question for you more experienced guys. Our car obviously gets very hot and heatsoaked. Would a small IC be benificial to our NA car? I was thinking that the Stillen water to air IC would be a good idea if it wouldnt cost too much and could be adapted easily to the car.

Modshack's vent mod is great for reducing intake air temperatures.

Yes I plan on doing that mod soon, but I was wondering would something like Stillens IC drop intake temps enough to make HP or would the extra weight negate the drop in temps? Lets say with the Stillen IC we could drop the intake temps to 30 degrees lower than ambient (is that even possible?) how much HP would you gain? If weight would negate gains would a finned round tube just before the MAF be benificial? basically a barrel IC for the intake. Like if the G3s had a section of their piping finned (inside and outside) just before the MAF.

Just some thoughts that Im sure have been thought of before and shot down.

It's not just intake temp its also humidity so you may want to factor that in. I don't think you'll need an all out IC, an oil cooler with a spacer should suffice. Heat soak is a problem on all cars but from my results my dyno #'s actually went up on each run with a 5 min cool down between the 2nd and 3rd run.

Guys, I'm serious on this DYNO IN 5TH you shouldn't hit the speed limiter trust me on this, I'll scan the dyno graph when I go home later this week.