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I have no idea if it will let you burn tires with the brakes on, that's not something I ever have a desire to do on my car (waste of tire and brake pad material!). I suspect the brake fuse trick also disables ABS (in addition to whatever else), and it might be that you can't burn out with the brakes on if ABS is functioning. No idea.
I do clean/heat my tires a bit by lightly burning them with the throttle as I'm pulling out of the hot pit usually, and lacking a yaw sensor the car never interferes (and it slips them fast enough that I get very little forward momentum from it). But not with the brake pedal down. |
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The ABLS won't let you do a standing/brake burnout. I am having a line lock installed so I can do a proper burn out with the M/T drag radials. Need to get those tires toasty to increase the available traction. The Race Logic and the M/T's hooked the car up much better in 2nd and lowered my ET by .6 seconds. Wasn't able to do the burn out tho because of the ABLS -therefore it didn't improve my 60' time at all... The available traction just wasn't there and when the Race Logic kicked in just off the line the car bogged and lost momentum. My overall ET would have even better with a quicker 60' Won't miss the ABLS at all since you can still get the car tail end happy even with it on. Won't miss the VDC either since the Race Logic keeps the car straight and narrow all by itself. Am currently having a switch/relay installed to disconnect the circuit and at the same time enable the line lock on track days. If you can find a work around for the Brake Lights that would be the PERFECT solution! Bob |
For me, I'm just wiring it with a protected toggle interupting the green power wire feeding the Yaw sensor from connector 4 as per the manual. On when I want it off when I don't;)
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its not the abls that wont let you do a burnout thats the ecu, if it recieves a brake and gas input at the same time it limits throttle to 10%. It's also known as anti runaway toyota mode. pulling the brake fuse completely kills abs you will have no antilock function, the brake light wire is what tells the ecu when you hit the brakes, so if you pull the fuse it has no way of knowing you are depressing the brakes so the entire abs system is down. Also I am positive that a momentary power interupt in the yaw sensors line is all that is required. for those with a switch try it out start the car, flip your yaw switch till the lights go out, then flip it back on your tcs will still be dead.
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Also I did some digging through the FSM for you and found out (in theory) how to bypass the brake switch while still keeping your lights. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps8a8cd833.jpg Its a bit hard to see but you essentially want to cut the wire going from your fuse block to your ABS controller. This will kill and brake signal going to your CanBus but yet still let your brake lights function as they should. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps715cef21.jpg Again hard to see but the ABS connector is E41 and its pin 30 with a SB color of wire. Knowing first hand how hard it is to get to the abs connector I would probably look at the fuse block end of things (pin 1F of E103). Hope this helps! I might do the same thing come summer. Mitch |
Yeah not to mention pretty much every failure mode on this car that's documented requires a restart (shut off car and turn ignition back on) to clear it, so it would make sense that the yaw fault does too.
I do wish there was a way to get rid of the brake/throttle interlock without losing ABS entirely. |
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BTW, "SB" is Sky Blue (weird naming).
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That pin 1F looks easy to find on the fuse block. I think this weekend I might cut that and run it to a dash panel switch for ABS ON/OFF, then I can experiment with the difference switching it on for some sessions and off for others. I don't drag race, but I am trying to learn to left-foot-brake to ease my brake/throttle transitions. The downside is no ABS to protect me from flat-spotting tires, but the upside would be not having the throttle limiter interfering just because I still have some light left-foot pressure on the brake pedal.
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Contacted them directly and they said that toggling off this interlock will cause the car to respond 'almost' like pulling the fuse, but weren't any more specific than that. I was led to believe that the ABS is independant of the ABLS and is never turned off. Anybody know for sure ??? Yet another possibility emerges !!! We Will get to the bottom of this ... Bob |
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Will download the pictures and bring up the contrast and resolution in PhotoShop. Ideally I would want to keep the ABS and Brake Lights but lose the ABLS and VDC. Hard to tell or predict without actually doing it - but do you foresee this happening ? I'm looking in to the suspension/weight transfer, camber/alignment and tire pressure to get it to hook up better. Great job on the research you did ... The shop is either going to love me or hate me when this is all figured out !!! Bob |
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I was led to believe that the ABS was an independent function seperate from the ABLS and VDC. If it isn't : then I need to rethink how to reconfigure my car. I'm not doing a Brake and Gas burnout ... I'm using a Line Lock controlled by a momentary switch/relay to engage only the front brakes for the burnout. Tried to do the Brake/Gas burnout - the throttle did get real weak and the rear brakes pulsed repeatedly. Ideally I would like to be able to disable the VDC and ABLS and let the Race Logic alone control the traction for normal driving...still retaining the ABS and Brake Lights. Is this configuration even possible with the 370? It would be GREAT if it was... In the early days it would be a simple wiring solution ... but with todays cars and computers ... eh ???? who knows what to expect !!! Bob |
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The exact pages in the FSM is EXL-91, BRC-76, BRC-77. I would bet that the ABS would be disabled as this is what occurs when pulling the fuse for the whole circuit. |
To clear up some confusion in the past two posts:
VDC and ABLS are sub-functions of the ABS controller. Disconnecting the Yaw sensor kills VDC and ABLS, but not ABS. Pulling the brake light fuse kills the brake lights and also kills power to the whole ABS controller, killing VDC, ABLS, and ABS. Cutting the Sky Blue wire to pin 1F on the fuse box would also kill the ABS controller (dead ABS, ABLS, VDC), but not the brake lights. |
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Definitely kills the VDC and ABLS but not the ABS ? ... both warning lights are then illuminated to confirm ? Which wire would you recommend for the proposed surgery ? OR ... Intercept the Sky Bue wire to pin 1F at the Fuse Box on drivers side kickplate? Decisions Decisions - I think you just may have hit on the solution for me :bowrofl: Need to check back with the shop to find out how the Race Logic fits in to the equation. Still need that to work ... Thanks ! Bob |
Hmmm .....
Richard Bendell at Motec Research in Melbourne tells me that they will have a 370Z in the lab in Feb with the objective of engineering the new Motec century-series ECU as a plug replacement for the 370Z (same as they recently completed for the R35 GTR). He tells me that this opens all options for control of the chassis and engine ... so I will be watching the development closely. There are 100-series ECU's for the R35 and the FR/BRZ twins and I hope, soon, the Z34 The MoTeC website says ...... No rewiring is necessary with the optional loom, which plugs into the stock wiring harness using the original sensors and fuel system. All original functions are maintained, with the exception of Cruise Control. Works with all of the stock component, including: Power steering ABS Stability control Air conditioner Dashboard Adds powerful extra capabilities, including: Turbo or supercharger control Launch control Traction control Gear Shift ignition cutting This should all be for not much more than the cost of the Race Logic box. |
Mmmmmm...Motec.
I'd sell my left and half of my right testes to have Motec in my car. It's some serious race stuff, bar none. |
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Yaw off is the exact same. It turns on the TCS light only. I can drift, burn out etc. To me so far both do the same thing and both off the same time feels no different. |
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So let me get this straight. You can do a standing burnout with your foot on the brake. Something makes me think you cant. |
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Shootin' Blanks anyway, Bob |
on the motec expect it e 8k and the harness is another 1.5k
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Too true, Motec is not cheap.
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the correct word is overpriced
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also that is a realistic price too the gtr plugin is 7580 plus harness
turbo kit money for an ecu:shakes head: |
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He got it from you saying "I can do a burnout" with just the vdc off, when what you meant was "I can spin my tires". To most a burnout is full on sit and spin action.
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Google burn out and see what pops up.
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If I google standing burn out I'll find a standing, but guess what? I didn't say standing did I? http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps918c83ba.jpg |
:google:
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But we were talking in this thread about heating up your tires for dragging. So when you say burnout in the context of this thread I assumed you were talking about standing. No one said anything about not being able to spin the tires once VDC was turned off. I jumped to conclusions based on the direction of the thread. :ugh2: |
how far down the page did you go to find that picture? most popular result per google for burnouthttp://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...id_burnout.jpg
The first 6 pages of images are all either the typical standing burnout or screenshots from the videogames Also the first sentence of the wiki for burnout says GFYS http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burnout_%28vehicle%29 By the way no hard feelings just F'n with ya |
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Looks like he's not only Burning Out but Dripping Out as well ! (Glad I wasn't in the front taking pictures). When I posted my first reply here at this thread it was to gain information that would help me configure my car for the drag strip. A specialized racing environment...Just needed to get my car to work better and get down the track faster. My intent here is to understand my car better and maximize it's performance ... Modding it to do just that. I've gotten a lot of helpful information (and have made some new friends) here on this thread and on other threads as well... In my opinion this thread shows the passion, personal involvement, expression, and enjoyment that is typical of Z drivers. Now on to the Semantics : The phrase 'Burn Out' to a drag racer means something totally different than it means to a street racer. Drag Racers lock the wheels and spin the tires - and go nowhere - all to heat the tires to create traction from a standing start. ...it has a definite purpose that affects straight line acceleration from 0 mph. The Z's inherent limitations restrict the ability to do this. Street racers and drifters on the other hand don't need to do this. Either way it results in buying new tires ... but we all do need to be safe when we Flex the Muscles of our Z's. About Performance / Why we need to Mod : and why we ask our peers The Z is a well engineered reasonably priced sports car but lacks flexibility ... it's just not in he same category as a high priced super car that has a lot of set up options. Super cars have a ton of user adjustable settings that allow you to set the car in different modes depending on an individuals preferences,driving style, and road or track conditions at will. The Z only has a few stock user control/adjustments available ... and the engineers have purposely designed the car so that (hopefully) it won't hurt you, you won't hurt it, and the general public won't get hurt either. In other words ... the car has a number of built in safety limits that are intended to benefit the majority ... at the cost of maximum performance. Some of these safety limitations however can impede the performance of the car in a racing environment...or even just spirited driving. About Maximizing Performance : Why we do this As racers and enthusiasts, we need to find workarounds for some of these limitations when they interfere in order to maximize the potential of our cars. This is why we ask questions. There is always a trade off that we need to understand and accept when we do this. There is also more responsiblity involved when we modify our cars outside of it's original design intent. Bottom Line ... we all share that Need for Speed ... a loosly knit Brotherhood of sorts. It is Good to Burn Rubber ... But NOT Friends Bob |
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...id_burnout.jpg
Totally Awesome .... cough cough This sez it all ... pls disregard my last post !!! |
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