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-   -   Dirty gritty drained oil when I did the oil change today (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/15818-dirty-gritty-drained-oil-when-i-did-oil-change-today.html)

ZForce 03-12-2010 06:10 PM

Get a used oil analysis (UOA) from a reputable place i.e. Dyson or Blackstone.

With your pics I would suggest Dyson. Dyson = >$$ although Terry Dyson will break down the UOA in more detail and provide a more in depth assistance to correct the issue.

dyson ANALYSIS

Check your dipstick weekly for oil consumption and make notes.

dlmartin81 03-12-2010 06:25 PM

I know but the problem is I did two oil changes in one afternoon, mine and my wife's. And mine was last. So what's in the oil pan is mixed.

semtex 03-12-2010 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlmartin81 (Post 442352)
Semtex -- did you hear back form your mechanic?

Not yet.

LaSeeno 03-12-2010 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlmartin81 (Post 442434)
I know but the problem is I did two oil changes in one afternoon, mine and my wife's. And mine was last. So what's in the oil pan is mixed.

Just the picture of the oil leaking out of the pan is bad enough. Put some miles on the car and drain it again or take it to the dealer. I wouldn't wait for 3k miles though. Like, by the end of next week take it in.

tbonesteak 03-13-2010 05:19 AM

my mentality would be that if that much flakes came out, my engine is toast anyway. i want my case to be as strong as possible. therefore, i am going to run the oil for 3k miles for it to receive the full effect of the situation, then take it to the dealer with that sample. best case: the engine is fine and you can move on with your life. worst case: the sample has proven that the engine is bad and you get a new one. not too shabby at all.

dlmartin81 03-13-2010 10:33 AM

^^ Yes but regardless of what I do, I'm afraid that they're going to come back and say, "well, you didn't use Nissan's recommended oil" or "where's the evidence of when you did the oil change?" Yes, I have the receipts from Amazon for when I bought the oil and filter but no proof of when it was done. Or they might have me prove that Red Line contains contains the ester lubricant, which shouldn't be hard to do.

Basically, I'm preparing for resistance.

theDreamer 03-13-2010 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlmartin81 (Post 443554)
^^ Yes but regardless of what I do, I'm afraid that they're going to come back and say, "well, you didn't use Nissan's recommended oil" or "where's the evidence of when you did the oil change?" Yes, I have the receipts from Amazon for when I bought the oil and filter but no proof of when it was done. Or they might have me try and prove that Red Line contains contains the ester lubricant, which shouldn't be hard to do. But still, I'm preparing for resistance.

Not much you can do if they try to fight it, but they cannot force you to use their oil. Heck, many dealerships do not even use the "recommended" oil and just throw in Mobil-1 or the generic Nissan oil.

dlmartin81 03-13-2010 10:37 AM

But here's the weird thing, the car feels great.....definitely no indication of something being wrong. It's not sluggish, there's not noise, I don't smell anything. It rides smooth.

dlmartin81 03-13-2010 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer (Post 443557)
Not much you can do if they try to fight it, but they cannot force you to use their oil. Heck, many dealerships do not even use the "recommended" oil and just throw in Mobil-1 or the generic Nissan oil.

Is there any documentation (with source of reference) of Nissan saying that it is recommended BUT not required to use their oil?

TheSnakeJake 03-13-2010 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlmartin81 (Post 443561)
Is there any documentation (with source of reference) of Nissan saying that it is recommended BUT not required to use their oil?

yes, in the owner's manual.

5w30 oil is required. nissan ester oil is recommended.

6SPD_FTW 03-13-2010 10:59 AM

dlmartin81: You need to get a sample of oil and send it off for analysis NOW. I would not wait. If you have driven the car for 5 miles, judging by the pictures, that would be plenty enough time for there to be something to show in in the used oil analysis that would indicate what kind of problem you have.

I've seen milky looking oil from bearing wear before, not water contamination. Powdered aluminum in the oil from bearing wear will give it a very milky looking appearance.

Nissan has never stated that Nissan's ester oil is REQUIRED and they can not refuse warranty work due to using non-ester oil, provided it meets all the other specifications (which redline does) and is the right viscosity.

As long as you have receipts and document when you change the oil, that should be sufficient for any warranty work.

Late,
Trav

ZForce 03-13-2010 11:06 AM

The mfg must prove that the oil you used caused the damage. There is a law out there on that I think it's called the Magnussium law (not sure on that spelling) but it's been around for years.

As I mentioned before your best bet is to get a UOA as there are a lot of engine assembly lubes that are still being cleaned out. Plus a UOA will tell you if the metal wear is damaging or normal for the engine during break in and if the rings and pistons are seating.

g/l

dlmartin81 03-13-2010 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6SPD_FTW (Post 443584)
dlmartin81: You need to get a sample of oil and send it off for analysis NOW. I would not wait. If you have driven the car for 5 miles, judging by the pictures, that would be plenty enough time for there to be something to show in in the used oil analysis that would indicate what kind of problem you have.

I've seen milky looking oil from bearing wear before, not water contamination. Powdered aluminum in the oil from bearing wear will give it a very milky looking appearance.

Nissan has never stated that Nissan's ester oil is REQUIRED and they can not refuse warranty work due to using non-ester oil, provided it meets all the other specifications (which redline does) and is the right viscosity.

As long as you have receipts and document when you change the oil, that should be sufficient for any warranty work.

Late,
Trav

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlmartin81 (Post 442434)
I know but the problem is I did two oil changes in one afternoon, mine and my wife's. And mine was last. So what's in the oil pan is mixed.

^^

m4a1mustang 03-13-2010 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZForce (Post 443589)
The mfg must prove that the oil you used caused the damage. There is a law out there on that I think it's called the Magnussium law (not sure on that spelling) but it's been around for years.

As I mentioned before your best bet is to get a UOA as there are a lot of engine assembly lubes that are still being cleaned out. Plus a UOA will tell you if the metal wear is damaging or normal for the engine during break in and if the rings and pistons are seating.

g/l

The MM Act does nothing to protect you. If the manufacturer decides to deny your warranty claim it's on you to take up the legal fight. It almost always ends up cheaper to just pay for repairs on your own than pay the legal fees it takes to fight a big company.

dlmartin81 03-13-2010 09:55 PM

I talked to an old buddy of mine who used to be a mechanic and he said that a lot of time when oil is brown, it's due to a bad head gasket (I think it was a head gasket, that he said) and you have coolant getting in and mixing with the oil. I don't know, I think that's what he said.

Does this make sense to anyone else?


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