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Get a used oil analysis (UOA) from a reputable place i.e. Dyson or Blackstone.
With your pics I would suggest Dyson. Dyson = >$$ although Terry Dyson will break down the UOA in more detail and provide a more in depth assistance to correct the issue. dyson ANALYSIS Check your dipstick weekly for oil consumption and make notes. |
I know but the problem is I did two oil changes in one afternoon, mine and my wife's. And mine was last. So what's in the oil pan is mixed.
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my mentality would be that if that much flakes came out, my engine is toast anyway. i want my case to be as strong as possible. therefore, i am going to run the oil for 3k miles for it to receive the full effect of the situation, then take it to the dealer with that sample. best case: the engine is fine and you can move on with your life. worst case: the sample has proven that the engine is bad and you get a new one. not too shabby at all.
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^^ Yes but regardless of what I do, I'm afraid that they're going to come back and say, "well, you didn't use Nissan's recommended oil" or "where's the evidence of when you did the oil change?" Yes, I have the receipts from Amazon for when I bought the oil and filter but no proof of when it was done. Or they might have me prove that Red Line contains contains the ester lubricant, which shouldn't be hard to do.
Basically, I'm preparing for resistance. |
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But here's the weird thing, the car feels great.....definitely no indication of something being wrong. It's not sluggish, there's not noise, I don't smell anything. It rides smooth.
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5w30 oil is required. nissan ester oil is recommended. |
dlmartin81: You need to get a sample of oil and send it off for analysis NOW. I would not wait. If you have driven the car for 5 miles, judging by the pictures, that would be plenty enough time for there to be something to show in in the used oil analysis that would indicate what kind of problem you have.
I've seen milky looking oil from bearing wear before, not water contamination. Powdered aluminum in the oil from bearing wear will give it a very milky looking appearance. Nissan has never stated that Nissan's ester oil is REQUIRED and they can not refuse warranty work due to using non-ester oil, provided it meets all the other specifications (which redline does) and is the right viscosity. As long as you have receipts and document when you change the oil, that should be sufficient for any warranty work. Late, Trav |
The mfg must prove that the oil you used caused the damage. There is a law out there on that I think it's called the Magnussium law (not sure on that spelling) but it's been around for years.
As I mentioned before your best bet is to get a UOA as there are a lot of engine assembly lubes that are still being cleaned out. Plus a UOA will tell you if the metal wear is damaging or normal for the engine during break in and if the rings and pistons are seating. g/l |
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I talked to an old buddy of mine who used to be a mechanic and he said that a lot of time when oil is brown, it's due to a bad head gasket (I think it was a head gasket, that he said) and you have coolant getting in and mixing with the oil. I don't know, I think that's what he said.
Does this make sense to anyone else? |
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