I think he said "valve" guides.

In any case... None of what you're experiencing should happen on a new vehicle.

I don't think he's having a filtration issue. Just sayin'

:rofl2: Yeah, I meant valve, not value.

But yes, I agree. Which is why I find it ridiculous. Perhaps I bought a lemon, as they call it.

Yes, definitely not filtration.

Well, it turns out that the oil light that I got earlier today was from my preset oil change reminder, NOT low oil.....lol.:facepalm: I got in the car again after work and the damn light was still on. I'm like, "How is that possible? I topped off at lunch." I looked under the car and didn't see any oil on the ground.

See, I did my oil change a few hundred miles before the reminder and completely forget to reset it.

However, the oil level was a little low, so I added about .5 quart. Which still indicates to me that it may be consuming more oil than it should BUT at least it's not as drastic as I thought.

1/2 qrt in how many miles?

^^^Ditto

dl, that's not recommended. You really shouldn't mix oil from two different groups. This guy on ebay (who's store is in PA, same state as you) ships really fast. From placing order to my doorstep (i'm in NJ) - always less than 48 hours. Since you're in same state, it'll probably be quicker. Buy a quart or two just to be safe.

Good luck with the whole thing man! I don't know what happen. Everything was going so well and then this :(. If you need anything, let me know.

Napa typically sells Redline too.

Mmmm....I put about 600-700 miles on the new oil.

The reason I bought Mobile1 is because I thought I really had a problem. Again, that oil light that came on (which turned out to be the the damn reminder) got me scared that I was running bone dry and afraid that I wouldn't make it home. I live about 30 some miles from work. So I needed something in the interim. Desperate times....desperate measures.

I have extra RL oil at home and is now in my car.

You're checking your oil level when your engine's cold, right? (Or at least give it 20-30 mins after turning off so that the oil drains into the pan.) If you check your oil when your engine is hot, it may read artificially low on the dipstick because all the oil has yet to drain back into the oil pan. So then you go and add oil, and presto. You just overfilled.

^^ Yeah, I know to wait some time. I was in Pep Boys for about 15 mins before going to the car and reading the dipstick and adding more.

With that kind of oil consumption… ½ qrt or more within 600 miles on the current OCI, then I would suggest:

Get your oil sample sent out with lab you have chosen to go with; dyson or blackstone.
Check the oil when the engine is cold (sat over night).
If you are indeed consuming ½ qrt within the next 600 miles.

Then:

1) Get the car to the dealer and request that an oil consumption test be started. Make sure you have them document on the service order “customer states engine is consuming excessive amounts of oil”. Be sure you are present when they take the dipstick reading and that they let the car sit on a level surface for 20 minutes before taking the reading. They may want to change the oil and they might want to (it varies between dealers) tie off the drain bolt and filler cap during the test.

2) Talk to your service mgr and let him know you will be contacting NNA to open a case on excessive oil consumption. If you got a lemon, the sooner you report it to NNA the better for a case later on depending on the Lemon Law for your state of residence. By all means treat the service mgr well and do not piss him off because it will be his call when NNA contacts him on a recommendation to replace the engine or not.

This is just a heads up, if you find yourself going down that road, hopefully not though. I have been there and done that with the bro's 06 Z33 6MT and it’s not a fun experience.

Are those metal shavings or air bubbles coming out? First pic looks like shavings, second angle looks more like air bubbles. I would lean more toward water contamination. I just did my first RL change at about 3600 miles on it and the oil did have a different hue to it than normal dyno or Nissan Ester oil, but not as milky as yours was...no flakes or grit. IF its not flakes, hope its water bubbles. I would get some temp up in the motor and drain the oil. Then get that oil analyzed.

FuszNissan -- Could you have one of your service department guys to take a look at these pics (1st page) and get their opinion?

Thanks for the advice.

I checked the oil level this morning before going to work and it was about 3/4 from the low to high marker on the dipstick. And my driveway is pretty level. I know Semtex had a concern that I may have misread it and overfilled the other day. That wasn't the case. It really did loss oil.

The oil was definitely gritty and those copper looking specs where not bubbles.

I have already requested a testing kit from BlackStone. I'm still waiting on its arrival.

Did you take that oil and put it in a clean container? If not, then its contaminated.

Otherwise, I guess you could drain some out from what you have in the pan, and note the amount of oil you added on the form.

The old oil is contaminated, yes. I did two oil changes in one afternoon, mine and my wife's, and mine was last; otherwise, I would have kept it aside.

When I receive the testing kit, I plan to drain whatever is needed and then top it back off.

Even if it is comtaminated isn't it worth getting at analysed? they could at least tell you about the presence of certain metals right... and you can be 90% sure it's from the z... From the picture if that orange stuff is metal then your readings are going to be off the chart...

really hope there's nothing wrong with your engine, hope it is just a bit of water like the others have metioned...

Yeah...I hope so too.

But to be honest, I don't know what I should do first. Too many options...too many paths to take. I've thought about sending the contaminated oil like you said, but I want to get an accurate report of my oil and my engine's 'wear'/'oil consumption' so I can take to the dealer as proof. Yes, I could get two analysis done but that would mean extra time (because I'd have to order another testing kit) and I don't want to spend more time on the road than I have to. I would have taken the car to the dealer by now but I'm waiting for the testing....so I can have proof.

Considering the fact that the oil filter element's the core an oil filter, it figures that the better the filtering element is, the less contaminated the oil's gonna come out at oil-change time. But, I'm the first the admit that I'm neither an engineer nor a mechanic, so just ignore my logical conclusion, which may not have too much logic at all due to my lack of expertise on these issues. Mostly, I depend on guys like you and your experiences and related searches.

The particles that drained out the pan were too heavy to get picked up and filtered.

I imagine when he drains it again for the test, he should get some more, as draining it once likely didn't get it all.

Now THAT sounds serious. I hadn't picked that part up. Nasty situation. If the Z's under warranty, he needs to go to the dealership ASAP.

^^ Will do....as soon as I get my oil analysis done. The kit has still to arrive at my doorstep.

Have you considered getting an oil filter debris analysis? Maybe BS does this?

Hey!, How 'bout one of those AMWAY Super-duper oil filtration systems?! I've heard they're great--though expensive. Do a search on that, man.

IMHO, oil filtration is far more important than oil type. Those mag filter covers are only good for collecting the magnetic particles. So where are the other non-magnetic particles going? Hence, if you require better filtration, maybe an investment in a better oil filtration system is in order as j.arnaldo suggests. Someone can correct me but I believe a standard filter will not pass particles less than 30 microns. Particles less than 30 microns that do pass are most likely not a show stopper for your engine. They will either get embedded in the bearing babbitt, eventually settle in the base pan or other places where sludge forms.

LOL. I just noticed the tag on this thread.

Re. filtration, I've said it before -- I don't think filtration is the issue. The issue is that those particles shouldn't be there to need filtering to begin with!

:iagree:...Filtration is not the problem here..

Obviously, filtration is not the issue. The OP has a wear issue and changing the oil won't fix it.

I mistakenly through it away. I did two oil changes in one afternoon (mine and my wife's) and threw everything (except the oil) into a bag and into the trash.

Agreed. Also, you do know that oil is recycled these days, right?

That looks like oil from a 1970 chevy that hasn't been changed in 5 years, wtf??? Any white smoke coming out of your tailpipe? Blown head gasket? WTF??????!

You mean Amsoil? please tell me you meant Amsoil. :icon14:

I thought you mixed your oil with your wife's car's oil? If so, dump the analysis idea.

Amway, Amsoil, what's the diff? :stirthepot: (I kid, I kid.)

I haven't noticed any white smoke; however, I have noticed a slight smell coming from the vents when I use the A/C or heat. It could be my imagination...I don't know.

Well, I am planning to drain (whatever is needed) some oil and send it for testing. I called BlackStone and they said that they like oil to have at least 1K miles of use before testing. So once I get the testing kit (hopefully this week) and once I've driven over 1K with the new oil, I'll drain some, send it, and wait for the results.

The idea is, if I have a serious problem, then there should be some evidence of it in the current (new) oil.

You guys are ruthless haha.

Amsoil products are a subsidiary/offshoot of the AMWAY corp.--if I'm not mistaken. I could be wrong, but AMWAY reps down here distribute Amsoil, too.

Honestly, I have never heard of Amway. Browsing their products, I don't see any mention of Amsoil whatsoever. Plus, on my way to becoming T-1 certified, I never encountered Amway along the way. It appears they utilize the same marketing strategy, which might be a source of confusion. Lastly, anybody can become a dealer if they wanted.