Owner's Manual says that VDC OFF means exactly that, but ABLS and ABS are still active. Maybe folks are feeling ABLS kick in.

pg 5-27: "The VDC system uses an Active Brake Limited Slip (ABLS) function to improve vehicle traction. The ABLS system works when one of the driving wheels is spinning on a slippery surface. The ABLS system brakes the spinning wheel, which distributes the driving power to the other drive wheel. If the vehicle is operated with the VDC OFF switch pushed and the VDC system turned off, all VDC systems will be turned off. The ABLS system and ABS will still operate with the VDC system off. If the ABLS system is activated, the (slip) indicator (light) will blink..."

That's probably it. Good find.

Looks like the solution to the problem/question, good find.

I thought that this ABLS thing was only for the models without the LSD so that the wheel with traction at some point will get some power... For the life of me i can't find where i read this... so at this point in time I have no proof...

I have found that VDC is still active, albeit at a reduced level, even when switched off. I have attempted a smoky burnout with it off, lit them up great about halfway through the intersection, and then bog city as nanny Nissan shuts down the power. This is a real thing, regardless of what the literature says.

I've had no issues getting it to spin the tires with vdc off. I would agree with the others, it's the ABLS you feel, not the VDC.

Correct. The ABLS kicks in when there is a large differential wheel speed either side to side or front to rear, so it will potentially kill your burnout. This is not VDC.

I think this is what people are experiencing....If you touch the brake under wheel spin it acts like the VDC.

Obviously the ABS is still active. That would be real interesting at the track if it wasn't since I never run with the VDC on! Haha can you imagine?!

It would definitely force you to learn threshold braking if that was the case.

When I wanted to do a burnout, I took out the brake lamp fuse to disable the brake override. Started the car and turned off the vdc. I don't know if it showed up before or after a burnout but the ABS light and some other light came on in the dash. I assume the ABS is disabled, maybe?
Turned off the car when I was done, put the fuse back in, turned it on again, and everything was back to normal

It does not cut anything in mine. OFF is OFF. ON is ON. Though it would be nice to have something a bit in the middle.

I would say this is the case. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you pull a fuse w/e circuit it is for will be disabled until the fuse is plugged back in due to a break in the circuit.

Hey guys. I'm somewhat unknown here since i haven't posted much, but I follow many of the threads. I found this thread when i became frustrated during an AutoX this past weekend. After having already exited a hard left hand corner, starting to get power down, high in the RPM's in 1st gear, the throttle response went completely dead...I'd say i coasted 2-3 car lengths, before any throttle response came back. This very much felt like a fuel shut off rather than any sort of ABS/ABLS intervention.
My fuel was half tankish, but everything i've read with regards to fuel starvation points to long-gradual RH Corners...not the case here.
On a second instance, the same lack of throttle response was noted, but this time with an audible fluttering sound....like intake charge was being dumped-off. I'm not saying this is the case, just trying to paint a picture of what the flutter sounded like.
In both instances, the power came back in about the time it took me to pump the pedal 3-4 times.
Here's a question...if the car was under a decent lateral load (instant G-force...not sustained) would the ECU shut off the fuel for safety reasons anticipating a crash/collision????
Oh yeah, this was not the rev limiter and yes i had the traction control turned off. And with the TC turned off, my car can get just about as loose as i want it to get.

It does sound like fuel starvation (the description matches what I experience). It can happen in either direction if the fuel level is low enough, I have to keep it at 3/4 or above for auto-x.

On my 350 I took the fuses out, but you will not have ABS anymore ....LOL! Have fun!

Well I guess in the grand scheme of things, fuel starvation is not the end of the world...with a little weight penalty, the problem is gone.

Thanks for the input guys!

Yep, it is the burden that many of us carry. Fortunately at least the extra weight is in a good place for balance.

If you jump to the end of this thread you will see there is a solution in the works as well.
http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...-who-else.html

Great thread...I'll stay tuned. Thanks!!

which fuses were removed? the abls very much ruins the the pleasure of driving this car hard. I took the car to a drift event last year just to see what the car is capable of in stock form. Let's just say i did a few laps and went back to the pits. The car was damn near impossible to connect corners.

Im so used to all my other FR cars with no stability controls and assists. SO, Anyone have an official answer on how to Disengage ALL stability controls?

put a momentary interrupt button in the center console connected to the power wire of the yaw sensor by the shifter once power is cut to it the ecu alarms and shuts off the ENTIRE traction control system including the electronic differential braking(not the abs this is supposed to turn an open diff into a locker by braking the wheel with less traction). order just disconnect the yaw sensor. to kill the abs you need to put a switch in by the brake sensor(note not the one for the cruise control) if you don't want to pull fuses. the motor has an anti-toyota feature in which if you push the brake and gas at the same time it shuts off the motor so this switch is for burnouts. with both switches just turn off the car and turn it back on and everything should clear.

Do nismos have differnt system? My car spins wheels to oblivian with VCD switched off? In fact for AX I'd love to have ABLS as it would help control my power oversteer. ...or Maybe becuase I have supercharged car its overpowering ABLS?

Anyone truly educated in our cars systems? I know wwhen my car was naturally aspirated I only ran with ABS and VCD fuses pulled so never had intrustion. We fixed abs ice mode after I installed supercharger so I dont notice any thing.

I have tracked two Nismo 370Z and don't remember any issues with the VDC jumping in after being deactivated.

-And I got one of those Nismo's rather out of shape.

ABLS doesn't prevent wheelspin if both rear wheels are spinning at the same rate. It prevents inside wheel spin if one rear wheel is spinning excessively faster than the outside rear wheel. In a Sport or a Nismo this is pretty much only going to happen when turning with the outside rear planted but loaded, and with enough suspension travel such that the inside wheel is light.

In auto-x and track driving you should almost never see ABLS intervene, and even if it did you probably wouldn't notice. It won't prevent you spinning out if you are mashing the gas with VDC off. It is an issue for track drifting since you need maximum wheel spin, but in all other track cases it is a non-issue.

A buddy of mine that likes to drive...uh...a bit aggressively was driving my car. Got it sideways through an intersection & VDC kicked in. He asked me "Where's the button to turn the traction control off?" My answer..."Oh, it's in the trunk."

the nismo abs and vdc is the same. yeah if ur putting down 400hp+ ur not gonna notice it. the only way you really do notice it is when you have vdc off and the slip light flashes for a second.the second level of traction control is very non intrusive so most people don't know its there until the light flashes at them. i find it only works at high rates of speed when the rear starts walking out exiting a corner.

reviving with my experience, whether abls or what not, some form of system is still active, this does pev me off a bit about the 370 vs the 350z. Turn off the 350's vdc and it was play time, the 370, nope, grabbed second gear in a rolling burn out and bam, it held the car a 5k and braked the wheels until I pushed the clutch in. NO FUN NISSAN.

This was one of the first things I noticed once I started to play around with my Z. I did a lot of experimenting to see if I could find some way to disable it. I'm not sure if this trick works or I'm doing something else different, but turning off my synchro rev match seems to help. I doubt this is the case, but honestly at this point, I just don't know.

For you tire shredding burnout kinds just disable it. The controller is under the center console next to the e-brake.

mine is unplugged and is staying that way.too much of the ecu's involvement when i dont want it to be.

I have driven many 30 minute sessions (204 so far) with TC off and never had the yellow light come on. Never had a problem with this. I have an 09. Seems strange.

It's not a problem on track at all, never has been for me either. ABLS only kicks in when there is a massively wheel speed differential between front and rear or rear to rear, so basically drifting, burnouts etc. I'm not into that stuff myself since I like my very expensive rubber :) You're also more likely to get it in an open diff car vs a LSD Sport/Nismo.

ABLS does intrude when drifting especially in 2nd gear when the rear wheel speed is far greater than the front. Both my friend (350Z) and I (G sedan) have felt it. It feels just like ABS pulsating separate corners at a time. It doesn't stop the car completely but it does affect the way it drives and acts in a drift. It's more like a stability control than anything else. We both have LSDs. Below is a pic from our last session.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...24633435_n.jpg

yea i kinda know what you guys are talking about...
 

i drift my 09 370z 6spd mt you need to unplug the box in the center councel and thats it... it was a pain in the a$$ to figure it out we pulled fuses cut wires bla bla bla and that light kept going on and we ended up going to our friends shop Deeps Garage and he said pretty much that even if you turn the VDC off it never completly turns off it will cause the rear to apply slight amount of brake pressure to your rear the switch on the brake and throtle causes your car to shut off so you cant do a simple burnout. just unplug that center box located in the center councle were your E-brake is and unplug. if you want to get fancy get a switch made for you so you can pretty much turn it off COMPLETLY !!!!!!!!!!!! hahaha if you need anymore info hit me up

All u need to do is to cut in the on/off switch to yaw rate sensor. This will make your VDC completely off, but your VDC and SLIP light stays on though.

Are there any lights that stay on?

:iagree:

As someone with a non-Sport, open-diff Z, I can attest that ABLS definitely does come into play with VCD off. I find that it's pretty easy to provoke ABLS in VCD-off, low-speed, low-traction, tight-corner situations.

That **** never turns off ,i have a 7at and it always messes with my drag radial burnout even with street tires

Sounds right to me. I just wish I could figure our a way to solve the "Ice Mode" ABLS problem without having to pay someone like UpRev $500 to "maybe" fix it. :tiphat:

this is what I did...

^^^

:tiphat:

big balls