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-   -   Oil Cooler hose exploded (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/14137-oil-cooler-hose-exploded.html)

travisjb 02-06-2010 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang (Post 390001)
Travis: was your failure do to a properly assembled fitting?

my installer said it was a blown line, but i suspect it was not fully attached... again, not the GTM kit, but lesson learned is to use the highest quality components and 3x check fittings when it comes to the oiling system... the pump on this car has a very high throughput and moves a lot of oil in short order in order to keep the upper end of the motor cool... so when these sorts of things happen, you have very little time to react and get the motor turned off

m4a1mustang 02-06-2010 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 390020)
my installer said it was a blown line, but i suspect it was not fully attached... again, not the GTM kit, but lesson learned is to use the highest quality components and 3x check fittings when it comes to the oiling system... the pump on this car has a very high throughput and moves a lot of oil in short order in order to keep the upper end of the motor cool... so when these sorts of things happen, you have very little time to react and get the motor turned off

Seems to me like an oil pressure gauge is a definite must.

I am planning on building my own kit and will be using the aeroquip socketless hoses.

FuszNissan 02-06-2010 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal 370Z (Post 389750)
Did any of the engine oil cover the Stillen air filters? The G3 is pretty much proven to provide gains. How long have you had it on? :)

Did you reset the ECU?

fstrnldr 02-06-2010 11:12 AM

i'm not going to say this was the original posters problem ( i don't know nearly enough about the product, or install to even guess), but this brought up a good reminder. When you guys do the installs on these kits, the hoses MUST have some slack in them. The engine is not solid mounted to the chassis so as the engine moves under down shifts, and up shifts, it will pull on the hoses if they are too tight and rigidly mounted to the sub frame. That is probably one of the few ways i could see there being enough force to yank a hose end off of a JIC hose assembly like that. Assuming it was properly assembled of course.

travisjb 02-06-2010 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang (Post 390024)
Seems to me like an oil pressure gauge is a definite must.

I am planning on building my own kit and will be using the aeroquip socketless hoses.

Definitely on the gauge... I'm using a spa dual water/oil temp gauge in place of the clock... and for those that haven't seen it, check out Lou's TT build thread and look for the pics of his new gauges!

travisjb 02-06-2010 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fstrnldr (Post 390032)
i'm not going to say this was the original posters problem ( i don't know nearly enough about the product, or install to even guess), but this brought up a good reminder. When you guys do the installs on these kits, the hoses MUST have some slack in them. The engine is not solid mounted to the chassis so as the engine moves under down shifts, and up shifts, it will pull on the hoses if they are too tight and rigidly mounted to the sub frame. That is probably one of the few ways i could see there being enough force to yank a hose end off of a JIC hose assembly like that. Assuming it was properly assembled of course.

that's a good point sam... op, any thoughts? was there enough slack?

m4a1mustang 02-06-2010 11:15 AM

Lou's Defi gauges are f'ing nice, but I'm sure they cost a pretty penny.

I wouldn't mind replacing the clock with an oil pressure gauge... even if it's just some Autometer.

NYBladeZ 02-06-2010 11:24 AM

I think the gauges are around $2-300 each but top of the line, need the control unit as well. To the OP if you are selling your oil cooler let me know. I agree with the members who have said that the aftermarket for the Z is going strong. These things happen hopefully GTM can chime in their take since it's there kit. Did you leave any slack on the lines because I could see how that could cause this.

m4a1mustang 02-06-2010 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NYBladeZ (Post 390050)
I think the gauges are around $2-300 each but top of the line, need the control unit as well. To the OP if you are selling your oil cooler let me know. I agree with the members who have said that the aftermarket for the Z is going strong. These things happen hopefully GTM can chime in their take since it's there kit. Did you leave any slack on the lines because I could see how that could cause this.

Yup. Even the Defi analog gauges are ~$250.

TARDCORE 02-06-2010 11:38 AM

On my journal I will have a part out as soon as I can get rough idea of what I can sell and how I am going to ship the parts since my truck is 2 hours away from me right now. I will post it in the for sale section since its where it belongs but until i will update it on the progession thread. Still need to make sure the oil didnt damage the o2 sensors on the instake. Its all over the sensors especially the passenger side. And yes, believe me when I say we tried everything to basically make the oil cooler fail before I filled the block and started the car. It had enough slack but not too much to where it may snag on something from an abrupt shift in weight or shock to the car. It was just faulty I will take more pics of the actual AN fitted and closer pics of the hose. I think the oil should have purged out of the core by now.

NYBladeZ 02-06-2010 11:41 AM

Man I feel for you I do, I just got an oil change done with ester and we all know that sht doesn't come cheap, good luck and hope it all turns out OK.

FuszNissan 02-06-2010 11:53 AM

Everybody should have DeFi gauges!!

m4a1mustang 02-06-2010 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FuszNissan (Post 390078)
Everybody should have DeFi gauges!!

FREE Defi Gauges @ Lou Fusz Nissan! Get them with your brand new FREE ECU!!! :icon18::icon18::icon18::icon18:

fstrnldr 02-06-2010 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 390035)
that's a good point sam... op, any thoughts? was there enough slack?


I think you have me confused with someone else.

travisjb 02-06-2010 11:58 AM

oh yeah, my bad

FuszNissan 02-06-2010 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang (Post 390079)
FREE Defi Gauges @ Lou Fusz Nissan! Get them with your brand new FREE ECU!!! :icon18::icon18::icon18::icon18:

:bowrofl::bowrofl:

Knock it off!...lol

g96818 02-06-2010 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FuszNissan (Post 390095)
:bowrofl::bowrofl:

Knock it off!...lol

I'll take one. you ship to hawai? Thx brah :tup:

SAM@GTM 02-08-2010 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TARDCORE (Post 388573)
Like the topic states. Right above the AN fitting it sort of mushroomed on the end that connects to the thermo plate. I dont know exactly what happened as I didnt feel like looking at tonight. Not as mad as I thought Id be but disappointed. Any ideas? I mean everything was sturdy, tightly closed. the core didnt even budge from the bracket we made to attach it. I am really disappointed and I hope nothing internally was damaged since it pretty much drained the entire system of 6.4 qts or so. Basically what happened was right after the install I drove the car until it reached 180F. The I redlined the hell out of it for a while. The temp was still doing good and there were no leaks of any kind. Then I decided to take long route home on the freeway and see how it did on the temp while highway driving. All I remember is at one point I down shifted from 6th to 4th at 80mph and brought it up to about 6800rpms and thats when it happened. Any ideas? were the hoses not sealed properly above the AN fitting.

Here is the pic of right after we installed it. Of course its not the aftermath pic. I really wasnt in the mood to even lookat the car I was so disappointed.
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/v...OilCooler1.jpg

First of all we do apologize for any inconvenience we may have caused. a replacement hose has been sent out last week with a return shipping label so we can get the old part back to further investigate what caused this issue.

Couple of points that i would like to make, This is the first time that we had this happen and we have sold lot of thees kits, Now defiantly a mistake could have been made in the proses of assembling the hose, but also base on the picture you posted above there is really no slack to the oil cooler hoses what so ever and with the engine torquing against them could cause the problem you're having .

Sam

RCZ 02-08-2010 04:47 PM

^ not to disagree or agree, but even if there was slack you wouldnt be able to see it in that picture. I'm not really interested in blaming anyone, these things happen even to the best dealers every now and then.

Modshack 02-08-2010 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCZ (Post 393333)
^ not to disagree or agree, but even if there was slack you wouldnt be able to see it in that picture. I'm not really interested in blaming anyone, these things happen even to the best dealers every now and then.

:iagree: Sam is just lucky this didn't take the engine out with it or I suspect the tone here would be a little different. Stuff happens. Tardcore was EXTREMELY luck on this one (as was GTM)

RCZ 02-08-2010 06:56 PM

I completely agree. A "whew!" moment for both of them.

TARDCORE 02-08-2010 08:29 PM

thanks Sam. I wish the motor would have seised. I could have a valid excuse to not go to work and still get paid for a week or so :tup:

RCZ 02-08-2010 10:38 PM

You really dont want that car...I think its time for a trade in...

TARDCORE 02-08-2010 11:54 PM

:iagree: but I havent decided if a Z06 is worth all the money I have saved for a house in the passed 3 years, or if a GS is worth half of it. But I guess I can wait and drive the ranger and leave the Z with low miles until I decide.

CBRich 02-09-2010 11:37 AM

Please don't spend money you've saved for a house on a car.

tbonesteak 02-09-2010 09:30 PM

haha this thread makes me want to bust out the facepalm in more than few ways.

TARDCORE 02-09-2010 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbonesteak (Post 395413)
haha this thread makes me want to bust out the facepalm in more than few ways.

why? Nothing happened to the Z except it got a bath in oil, GTM is sending me new hoses, demonstrating their great service even though they are not sure of the cause. Id say its more a of a :happydance: moment. I will be sending them the hose that became disconnected and hopefully they can shed some light by their analysis. I can't tell from the looks of the AN fitting and the hose so hopefully they can. And if they do determine it was my fault, I'll pay them for the new hoses they sent me because at this point; I really don't care about the money I put into the Z and I really want to move on. I sure it wont be that easy though since I still need to figure out what to about the oil lol

1slow370 02-10-2010 03:50 AM

Well if you don't care just drop 10 stacks on her go F/i and laugh at the vette dealership as you drive past. Then take her to a strip and lay some c6 smackdown. The car has the handling, looks, and features you just need the power next.

m4a1mustang 02-10-2010 06:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370 (Post 395720)
Well if you don't care just drop 10 stacks on her go F/i and laugh at the vette dealership as you drive past. Then take her to a strip and lay some c6 smackdown. The car has the handling, looks, and features you just need the power next.

10k won't be enough for a proper FI setup. If you're goal is to "laugh" at Vettes, all it takes is one cammed C6 for you to realize you wasted your money.

vipor 02-10-2010 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370 (Post 395720)
Well if you don't care just drop 10 stacks on her go F/i and laugh at the vette dealership as you drive past. Then take her to a strip and lay some c6 smackdown. The car has the handling, looks, and features you just need the power next.

I was able to pass Vettes at the track this weekend. I was never passed by one either. Granted it was the Green group, but still. Same skill level (I was probably behind, first time at a track) and a lot less car (supposedly). Yeah they were faster in the straight by a little, but I could hold a better line and turn tighter.

m4a1mustang 02-10-2010 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vipor (Post 395867)
I was able to pass Vettes at the track this weekend. I was never passed by one either. Granted it was the Green group, but still. Same skill level (I was probably behind, first time at a track) and a lot less car (supposedly). Yeah they were faster in the straight by a little, but I could hold a better line and turn tighter.

That's probably more a factor of you being a little more daring than them. :)

I could pass a 911 turbo riding my bicycle in an HPDE if the driver is a total nanny. :tup:

tbonesteak 02-10-2010 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang (Post 395756)
10k won't be enough for a proper FI setup. If you're goal is to "laugh" at Vettes, all it takes is one cammed C6 for you to realize you wasted your money.

Were you planning on getting a Z06 or just a base c6? A base c6 will need some work to get up to 550whp as a boosted z34 will. Z06 on the other hand......:hello:

m4a1mustang 02-10-2010 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbonesteak (Post 395927)
Were you planning on getting a Z06 or just a base c6? A base c6 will need some work to get up to 550whp as a boosted z34 will. Z06 on the other hand......:hello:

Either way, it will require less work than the Z. :tup:

TARDCORE 02-10-2010 01:08 PM

My friend has an 08 C6 and I raced him and he smoked me... bad. he even did it from a dig with another person in his car (and both of them weigh about 200) and I could launch the Z at about 4800 rpms and catch quicker and he still smoked me off the line. I dont think a "stage 1" FI Z could keep up with a C6 Z06 in a straightline. You gotta figure the amount of money you put into it for anything MORE than about 450hp at the wheels is going to add up, make it less of a daily driver, less reliable and more trivial issues. Think about what a an LS3 is putting to the wheels, then add the power to weight, then you have the Z06, weighs less than most, if not all, cars from the factory that put out that power. And vettes are hard to drive for beginners and I know this first hand! When I test drove the grand sport the dumb *** salesman kept telling me "cmon give her some gas feel! the power" I said I am fine and just more or less getting the feel of driving it. SO on the way back to dealer I let him drive it and he broke it loose around a corner in 2nd unintentionally and nearly wrecked it into one of those 1 foot tall curbs. So I am not supprised to Z a outhandle a vette with an inexperienced driver behind the wheel. The Z is a good car, I think its the best car for the money at this moment besides the GTR. I am planning on getting the Z06 or grand sport. The thing about the Z06 is it loses value so quick I might as well wait til 2011 and get a 2010 new or even a 2009 used but with low mile from test drives. All the 2010 have launch control now and it doesnt void the warranty lol. No one buys Z06s anyway as they are not practical and I have seen 2008s with less than 1000 miles on them at dealers when I was looking around.

Nikon FM 03-03-2010 08:58 PM

Not blown just leaking
 
http://www.the370z.com/gt-motoring/1...n-leaking.html

I posted the above thread in the wrong place :shakes head:

CBRich 03-04-2010 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TARDCORE (Post 396348)
My friend has an 08 C6 and I raced him and he smoked me... bad. he even did it from a dig with another person in his car (and both of them weigh about 200) and I could launch the Z at about 4800 rpms and catch quicker and he still smoked me off the line. I dont think a "stage 1" FI Z could keep up with a C6 Z06 in a straightline. You gotta figure the amount of money you put into it for anything MORE than about 450hp at the wheels is going to add up, make it less of a daily driver, less reliable and more trivial issues. Think about what a an LS3 is putting to the wheels, then add the power to weight, then you have the Z06, weighs less than most, if not all, cars from the factory that put out that power. And vettes are hard to drive for beginners and I know this first hand! When I test drove the grand sport the dumb *** salesman kept telling me "cmon give her some gas feel! the power" I said I am fine and just more or less getting the feel of driving it. SO on the way back to dealer I let him drive it and he broke it loose around a corner in 2nd unintentionally and nearly wrecked it into one of those 1 foot tall curbs. So I am not supprised to Z a outhandle a vette with an inexperienced driver behind the wheel. The Z is a good car, I think its the best car for the money at this moment besides the GTR. I am planning on getting the Z06 or grand sport. The thing about the Z06 is it loses value so quick I might as well wait til 2011 and get a 2010 new or even a 2009 used but with low mile from test drives. All the 2010 have launch control now and it doesnt void the warranty lol. No one buys Z06s anyway as they are not practical and I have seen 2008s with less than 1000 miles on them at dealers when I was looking around.

Awesome story bro.

spearfish25 03-07-2010 09:17 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Just to throw this out there. The service manual lists some ballpark oil pressures. Wonder what the pressure is when at really high RPMs...

Idle >14psi
2,000 RPM >43psi

Modshack 03-07-2010 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25 (Post 433530)
Just to throw this out there. The service manual lists some ballpark oil pressures. Wonder what the pressure is when at really high RPMs...

Idle >14psi
2,000 RPM >43psi

I don't think pressure is an issue here. Both Types of hoses, socketed and socketless are rated at 250 PSI or more.

On a cold engine you may see 70-80 PSI, when warmed typical pressures at speed rarely exceed 60 PSI on most cars.

I've posted my theory in the Modshack Ol Cooler DIY...

abakja1 03-08-2010 03:07 AM

Hoses coming off socketless fittings, lines bursting on crimped fittings,..

Starting to wonder if a blown engine is worth it as well as all the worrying just to keep oil temps down. Im changing my oil without installing an oil cooler till more info gets posted. I already have my RacerParts kit and was going to install this morning until I read about the socketless problems for a refresher this morning. A few hours ago I ordered crimped hoses from Mike and will wait for them. And just now I read about crimped hoses coming off, albeit from a vendor, but I hate to have reliability problems as well as have to worry about the lines all the time and contemplating doing this at all...

I mean, how do you test a crimped fitting without stressing the fitting itself "before" putting on your car as wouldn't this weaken a strong crimp in the first place? :confused:

Modshack 03-08-2010 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abakja1 (Post 433885)
I hate to have reliability problems as well as have to worry about the lines all the time and contemplating doing this at all...

The variable appears to be the install. Since many people succesfully run any and all of the hose combinations (My socketless set-up has been fine for 3500 miles), It pretty much boils down to install variances. My observations on this:

Quote:

Hose Blow-off analysis

What we know:

1) Both Socketless and Braided hoses have separated in 3 reported instances.
Not sure if Travis's was hose related, so that could be 4

2) Neither of those hose types and attachment styles have regularly reported failure rates.

3) Both hose/end styles are rated well above the expected temps and pressures

What we don't know:

1) install specifics/variables.

One of the comments from the Jack above stuck in my mind: The hose needs significant slack.. Both Cab and Mike report they had slack in their installs. I have no reason to doubt that. One thing not taken into consideration is the Torquing of the motor on it's mounts. Under acceleration and compression braking, the motor could be moving around the axis of the mounts by as much as an inch. Certainly in Mike's case, under track conditions, this could be even more. As the motor rocks on it's mounts, alternate stretch and compression forces are applied to the fitting. I suspect enough of these cycles, with a tad too little slack, and the barbs wore through the inner hose liner. At that point the structural integrity of the hose was gone and it blew off. But I had enough slack you say...Alternate theory #2: The hose, as laid out, passes under the sway bar. Lottsa clearance when up on a lift, not so much when on the ground. Compound that with a lowered car (CAB, not sure of your suspension) and you may have the sway bar working and flexing on the hose close to the fitting. This may potentially cause a similar failure by compromising the inner liner. Be sure the hoses are routed to cross under the swaybar close to the pivot point to minimize this. I'll put some cautions up on page one. I'd also recommend, on new builds, extending the hose lengths by 1" as Mike did after his incident. (My dimensions quoted BTW are cut end to cut end and DO NOT include the fitting.). It is always best to actually make up the hose lengths by fitting to the particular install before final socketless (or other) end assembly. A little too short and you run the risk of hose failure because of the above.


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