P0011 2 years after gallery gaskets
 

In summary, had the car for 3 years now.

At 130k the entire front timing cover was taken off(both). Replaced all seals, water pump, main and secondary guides.

Gasket has broken in the first turn coming off the block. Took everything apart, cleaned up, New OEM nissan superceeded gasket(metal). Re-used the factory bolts. Added some extra Nissan silicone light layer for extra assurance in the gasket and a bit on the bolts.

Life has been great for the past 30k up until it's last oil change.

I get a p0011 and limp mode. I hook up Uprev and noticed that my Bank 1 VTC reacts intermittently under 2000RPM, car has no power when VTCs are at 0 degs (obviously). A bit more rev and it jumps in accordance to Bank 2. They range from 0-60degrees. Ocasionally Bank 2 acts up but almost always it works. Bank 1 is the pesky one.

I hooked up a manual Oil PSI gague.

Hot idle, AC, D with brake applied and headlights on I get 15psi on the dot at 650 RPM. Any time revs drop lower (ocasional hard stops or compressor engagement it drops lower.

I've seen 12psi before however this had been at a quick dip of RPM to 550-600 however once it reaches 650 it's 15psi.

At 3k RPM or higher I get erratic pressure changes of about 5-10psi, like the VTCs are utilizing pressure and then not. This dips in pressure follow changes of VTC angles. I like to believe that the high pressure increases VTC is at 0 then the lowering I usually notice VTC is behaving.

Both VTC sensors and Solenoids where changed and between all of them they Specd out at 7.7 Ohms (Spare ones are confirmed to work)


When the code is set oil psi is not as erratic, my suspicion is since the VTCs barely move with the code set it's not utilizing pressures.



Predictions:

Either I broke some of the gasket by Bank 1
Blew the oil seal that feeds Bank 1 VTC
Shifter the Tone ring on Bank 1 VTC phaser

Wanted to see if anyone has had these issues post gasket replacement.

Thanks in advance.

P0011 2 years after gallery gaskets
 

Might be an issue that you reused the OEM screws. I believe the problem with OEM screws is that they can’t be torqued properly due to the drive type. the reputable aftermarket solutions use allen heads so you can better torque them down. Did you follow the torque specs on the screws during reassembly?

Also, u mention u added silicon to the gaskets and screws. For the gaskets I understand what u mean, although I’m not sure that this is recommended. However, for the screws I’m concerned as to why you added silicon. Was it added to the threads of the screws?


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So for the screws I used a Snapon Phillips #2 that comes attached to a 3/8 socket thats commonly used for brake rotor hardware.

I believe the spec is 12ft/lb or something along those lines which with the right tool it lets you do it.

The silicone was applied on the threads like loctite, not quite locktite but should prevent any backing off from vibration. So even if the bolts didnt take the torque the silicone will not let them vibrate loose.

I will be switching to allen bolts for when I open it again.

VTC gears as not so complicated either, unless there's visual evidence theyre internally damaged they work just fine. The tone ring shifting a bit is an uncontrollable outcome that can happen to anyone and it would please me if this was the issue (means my previous job held)

I took my car to the Nissan dealership here to change galley gaskets (car was at 21.000km then), and they didn't change the bolts, they reused the original ones. They specifically told me they already did this type of work previously on 370z's and had no issue whatsoever. They are also renowned here as the best nissan service in the wider area, so I tend to believe that bolts shouldn't be the issue if reused.

Neither did I, especially after I used the proper tools to properly torque them + additional dabs of Nissan RTV for assurance.


Update on the issue:
I've been driving with an analog OIL psi gauge out of the hood for some time now.

I notice that my max pressures can hit up to 130-140psi when cold and accelerating.
Max psi while warmed up is 100-110psi after 3.5k rpm.

I get dips of 15 psi that follow VTC operation, seeing higher pressure when the VTCs are stuck at zero which makes sense.

I can avoid the p0011 if I maintain higher than 3k rpm. If I stay between the 1500-2500rpm I get pinging from retarded VTCs - Pressures during this RPM is over 30psi.

I still get 14-15psi at 650 idle sometimes dipping to 13 on rare occasions.

Once I pass 3k rpm the engine runs/sounds normal and carries the power to red line if I wish to push it.

I will try another oil filter soon and lastly different oil at one point.

I could be wrong but isn’t there a internal-to-the-filter pressure relief valve that prevents the pressure from going that far above 100 psi? I haven’t heard of it getting to 130-140 before.


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Your oil pressures seem good. Spec is 14psi at idle and 42psi at 2k RPMS @ 80c.

I did my gallery gaskets with the EPS kit (stock ones were still good @ 90k miles). My idle pressure is ~18-19psi, but I've never seen higher than ~85psi even up to redline. Cold start pressure is right around 100psi.

Kind of sounds like the VTC solenoid?

What oil are you using? I would say it sounds like the factory screws loosened up somehow. 13 psi is definitely too low but it depends on your oil type. Most vehicles that I do gallery gaskets on end up having atleast 20 PSI with hot oil temps, most being above 25psi.

So a bit of background:

The engine has never liked 5W oil. I find that it produces a bit more metal than 10W. I've been using 10w- 30/40 depending on what's available.

I've been using Fram Gold Titan filters for 3 years, this specifically happened after I got an OEM Titan filter from the dealer. Former employer and I know the part department so I asked them for a Titan filter (hopefully they gave me the right one though to my understanding ALL titans are the same, never checked the part number)

Almost instantly started to experience this. Then hooked the oil pressure gauge to diagnose further.

The jumps in this pressure I contribute to VTCs engaging and disengaging.

Erratic pressures happen at all times however VTCs respond better prior to oil reaching operating temps. After 1 hour of driving I can see pressures drop a bit at idle 1 psi or so. Pinging is much more prevalent if I stay within 1.5-2.5k RPM

In my opinion it seems like a leak in the gaskets however possibly in the upper section, specifically affecting Bank 1 more than 2. Both get affected however it's always bank 1 more than 2.

Being that the pressures are more than enough at the sender I dont suspect Oil PSI is an issue but more that the pressures are not entering the VTC correctly. After changing VTC solenoids and sensors with working one's I've removed this possibility.

Another possibility is the VTC filters, possibility these could be clogged more towards Bank 1 vtc which I believe is why I see erratic pressures, as VTC solenoids demand operation, the pressure to them is not there (leak or filter clog) which causes them to act up,

The ability to monitor VTC oil pressure would help me out more and be able to further improve the diagnosis.

What I don't like that you did is putting silicone on the galley gaskets and the fasteners that hold them down. By putting silicone on the fasteners this may have caused them to not go in all the way which could cause them to back out and cause the erratic oil psi that you mention. Also, by putting silicone on the gaskets a piece of silicone could have finally broken off and is partially clogging the passage that feeds oil to the camshaft phasers and solenoids.

Looks like you may have to tear down the timing components for inspection. Sometimes reading live data isn't enough.

I was wondering if that was you (from myg37) over here. Possibly the phaser IS the problem? I wonder if Soho has run into this?

From what I've reading around the Z forums do not reuse the OE hardware as they back out, even starting to happen on the 2013+!!!