OEM fuel pump hat quick connect harness for re-wires
 

I didn't want to cut my OEM harness so tried sourcing male/female connectors. Finally got the correct ones. Made a few of these. I don't think anyone actually has something like this available?

This will work up to a certain point, though pretty ballsy making a 12ga fit the power side of the pump the drop down of the pin will overheat as it starts to demand masses of the pump.

This is why in fuel hats you see them move to different style connector, one that has a thicker male/female pins.

Still has its use however is not the saving grace to connector melting, it will still overheat over time.


We're entering a phase in the car world especially in the Z world where many have though of a lot especially on high current demanding circuits.

:hello:

where did you get the connector?

Te-connectivity
Ballenger
Ali-express has them

I'm installing an aeromotive 340 on a CJM fuel return. I'd have to check to see the current rating. First thought is I probably won't see an issue with it on my set up, but could be if someone is trying to run a Walbro 525 or Twin set up.

Charles recommend the complete harness upgrade when I was planning on a Aero 340.

I figured it’d be okay, but the big pumps pull a lot of current if you check their specs.

My intent is using the Deutschwerks pump require kit into this harness i created.

What do you mean "Harness upgrade"?

So, I have ran the Deutschwerks pump on all the factory wiring and connectors with no heat issues.

Its a relay kit - not harness - sorry

https://cj-motorsports.com/products/fuel-pump-relay-kit

OK, yeah... we are on the same page. So this harness I made should support the typical 30A re-wire kits outs there.

I just don't like the idea of cutting through the OEM harness. I'll post some pics when I get the fuel return setup done.

Me either,

So I spliced in the new pump between the pump and the bottom of the hat.

This way the factory wiring/connectors on the top of the hat could be retained.

You can see the solder/shrink wrap in the top of the photo.

I drove around for hours with my hand on the wiring after install and never felt any heat in the factory harness.

I ran a 340 on the stock harness and tophat for about a year with zero issues, when I took it all back out later to upgrade everything was in perfect shape and no signs of overheating on the tophat pins.

I have a bucket of those connectors but never used them for a harness kit since they are not OEM. I havent seen people have much luck with the replica connectors like these. The OEM actually never made that connector before, they have the side that plugs into the stock top hat, but they never manufactured the other end, it was always molded into the top hat. If you want to do a re-wire using OEM quality connectors and not have to modify your stock wiring at all, the end all method would be to use a 2-way and 3-way in the same series as the OEM. Then you can just de-pin and re-pin into the new OEM housings which they do make matching pairs of. Every connector in the series other than the 5-way, they made both ends.

With the particular install in the first post, that will work to a point, but from what I have seen, its the connector molded into the top hat that melts first. I would just add a couple pass through studs in the plastic hat since its naturally insulated, then you dont have to bottleneck down through that OEM connector on the plastic hat.

Just getting back to some old posts. Yeah, I ended up buying a bunch of these. It is true that they did not make an OEM hat side. I had to search high and low to get those.

I ran with it all last season with a 340 pump on a deatshwerks rewire and a CJM fuel return kit. No issues at all. I added a velocity stack filter to my TG S.C. set up and the standard Walbro was not cutting it anymore.

To be honest, I probably could have gotten away with the Walbro 255 on the DW rewire kit. It just was time to replace the pump out of maintenance. They are all roughly the same price.