Recommendations for new clutch
 

Hey folks - I bought myself a 2010 370z convertible this year with a little more than 130000km on it (about 83000 miles). It has been well looked after by one previous owner and is totally stock except for the Envidia Genesis Catback exhaust we fitted soon after getting it (amazing exhaust btw).

However, the clutch was always super difficult to get smooth in 1st and 2nd and in now after a few months and as many 1000kms added to the mileage, it feels to me that the pedal is super low and the clutch has nothing left. Getting to the point that it's super easy to stall as you pull away in first.

I'm guessing the clutch needs changing (although not 100% sure) and thought I would ask all the experts if there are any recommendations for replacement clutch - is standard Nissan part the way to go or are there better aftermarket options available?

We don't drive the car crazy fast (not often anyway) so I don't need any racing clutch I guess. We are not planning on adding any other mods or upping the power. But better driveability would be nice if there is a clutch out there that improves on Nissan's

Thanks

It's probably the slave cylinder failing. I recommend the ZSpeed CMAK.

If you intend to keep the car as it is right now performance wise I'd get an Exedy clutch kit along with the ZSpeed CMAK clutch slave cylinder. It is better to do this job only once and properly.

Don't forget a new master cylinder, too.

First thing to do is check the Clutch master cylinder for fluid. If it is real low, not good. CSC, as stated, is on it's way out.

I have nothing more to add here. The CMAK (and the new master cylinder) is a good way to get rid of the clutch problems on this car.

The only thing I would add is that the OP mentioned that 1st to 2nd is hard to get smooth. That could be due to the release point of the stock pedal. If that's the case then the RJM clutch pedal would be a good upgrade.

Hi! Here is everything you need! Will drive fantastic and keep pedal effort low. At 83k+ I would go in there without doing clutch and flywheel, CMAK and a new master. If you need any help with options you can always email us, Sales@Zspeed.com
https://zspeed.com/product/zspeed-st...hoose-options/

Some great advice! You guys rock!!!

I should add that the reservoir under the hood next to the brake fluid (I assume this is the master cylinder reservoir) is right on MAX so the level is fine. But I did notice it is a slightly brownish colour so I'm wondering if it's contaminated and needing of a flush.....

Is the general consensus just to replace the master/slave cylinder at this point or to do the entire clutch/master-cyl/slave-cyl combination?

The reason I am asking is that I have a few mobile mechanics that I work with who can do a whole lot of stuff but none of them have a hoist so they can't replace a clutch and I have to take it to a workshop instead - so if I can get away with not replacing the clutch for now I would consider it.....

I wrote a reply to this that has disappeared so will try again (apologies if you get it twice....)

Anyway, you guys rock!!! Thanks so much for all the replies.

I should add that the reservoir under the hood next to the brake fluid (which I guess is the master cylinder reservoir) is right on MAX so no issues with the level. I also notice it seems a little bit brown in colour with possible small black bits contamination, so might need a flush.

Is the general consensus then that I should just replace the Master and Slave cylinder for now or replace both cylinders and the clutch at the same time? I have mobile mechanics available to me that can do work without a car hoist but if I'm replacing clutch then it will need to go into a workshop which is a bi of a PITA where I am and if I can delay that for now I will.

PS I'm assuming the master/slave cylinder replacement can be done without a hoist but maybe I'm kidding myself?

Even at 83K you may have life left on your clutch and flywheel depending on what you use your Z for and how you drive? When you take everything apart visually inspect your clutch. In stock or near stock form any stage 1 clutch will work out fine Joe can help you out on this if you are set on replacing your clutch and flywheel. I would install the Z Speed CMAK before it’s too late and you get stranded in the middle no where like I did. It’s highly recommended to replace your master cylinder at the same time. A lot of Z enthusiasts have an issue with the stock clutch petal height and where it will caught. A good upgrade for you would be the RJM clutch petal you will enjoy driving your Z more and it can add to the longevity of your clutch/flywheel. When the mod bug hits it hits hard…..

So getting these parts to Australia from US looks like being an expensive exercise.

Before I make the giant plunge and get the credit card out, I wondered what you guys thought about this:

1) If I order a new Nissan CSC and just fit that would it be completely crazy or is there any chance I might get some mileage out of it before it fail again?

2) To replace the CSC is it a job that can be done without a car hoist? Or is the CSC internal and need the transmission removed to get at the clutch?

I would never recommend even to my worst enemy to put the original Nissan CSC, they are bad and known to fail.

I suggest go with another brand or put a CSC delete (external cylinder).
And yes, to do this job you need to remove the transmission. You can do it in jack stands (6ton or 12 ton because they are wider, more stable and go higher than regular 2ton)

You may like to watch this videos from TheCarizon, he explains perfectly how to do this job:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMIwhJn2xuI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oWprZ2U51M